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finding windshield 200

Where are the windshields for the 240 found. Safelite searched and came back with nothing from their sources, same for glass shops in cincinnati and dayton ohio, as also the web. Is there a source? Thanks, Keith 88 and a 92








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    Hi,

    I bought a couple of windshields from Safelite in 2020. They have a central call center for their independently owned dealers, and the dealers phone numbers aren't listed. I assume that's a franchise requirement.

    I could not get any satisfaction from the call center, but did get fixed up when I went in person to a dealer and talked to the manager. I think the home office is more interested in replacing ws than they are selling them . If you've been to a dealer who refused, try another location. The independent operators can buy the glass if they want to.

    Both of mine went into 90 240's, and I chose to replace the butyl and beauty rings with integral gaskets and urethane, but at the time I got them, both styles were available for about $115. I'm very happy with the Chinese glass which is DOT certified. Clear as a bell, and they've taken several hits without any damage so far. It may seem counter intuitive, but I think the thinner glass may be more resilient than the thicker original glass. I know for a fact that if you take 2 cast iron bars of the same length, the thinner one will bend more than the thicker one will before breaking. The windshield is not a structual member in a 240, and is simply there to stop what comes at it.

    Good luck,
    Peter

    .



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    Thanks for the info gang. It is a shot of hope as the story I've been told repeatedly is negative. I can't believe the cars built up to race or show is going without the necessary. I haven't made the connection as today is busy, but will share when I find out. Thanks, Keith 88 240,92 245, 62 544 and totaled 2 122's



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    Hi Keith,

    The glass is out there. Perhaps Safelite's computer system doesn't recognize that the earlier "seal" can be replaced by the later design that they do stock. Perhaps they just don't want to be bothered because it's a slightly more complicated of a job than their bread and butter.

    Use the Brickboard's search function. Plenty of documentation here on the ol' Brickboard.

    Here's a good one from Michael Yount: https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1658570/220/240/260/280/242_windshield_replacement.html

    Best of Luck,
    Will
    --
    XC60 / Odyssey



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      Hi,

      Thanks for the back date on a thread that I posted on back then!

      I see that I was mistaken about what year car that the Wagonmeister sold me and the make of windshield he used. I got them backwards!
      I’m at the house that has the 1992 and the 1993 in it.
      He sold me the 1992, seven years ago that has the FY Front-Window 00667 windshield
      My 1993, that I got in Reno Nevada, five years ago, has the PPG Solex F….-W…..00667 windshield.

      I will have to double check the 1991 now to see what it has besides the lumpy rubber seal on the passenger side. I’m going there for one week and service the 1992 on my rack.
      I normally rotate them but I need to make a special trip half way there.
      Besides, I get to tour or scrounge the PNP’s along the way!

      I have notice that the seals on all of them do not fit exactly as they might shrink a little especially around the corners. I don’t have leaks yet!
      Checking into the prospects of a wider width gasket sounds good to me too!

      It’s enough as Michael talks about.
      It’s nice that he mentions that he put down butyl tape. So, they do use a sealant. I had no idea!

      Thank you, Will!

      Phil



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      To add to that excellent thread that Will posted from Michael Yount on his 240 windshield replacement project, here’s some additional excellent info from Dave Barton’s site
      https://www.240turbo.com/240windshield.html

      Additionally, here’s a link from that thread to Art’s notes on windshield replacement
      http://cleanflametrap.com/windshield.html#LTFGW

      Being aware of the issues and being able to provide info on substituting the later windshield gaskets in place of the original trimmed windshields may help encourage a friendly glass shop or mobile installer to take on the job. Especially interesting is the different width gaskets that can be used to hide paint lines.

      Be extra prepared for rust at the pinch weld seams and rather than just letting them goop it over as some installers might do that you get them to pause the job and allow you to do a proper POR rust fix before they continue. With that in mind, many elect to remove the old windshield on their own and do all the prep work. Many articles here and elsewhere on getting the windshield out. It can be a bit of a messy undertaking and a mobile glass installer can make quicker work of it if you don’t mind paying for the privilege.
      --
      Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now



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    Have you tried Safe lite??



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      Hi,

      He said that safeLite did a search and basically, I think they kissed him off, because they’re a wham-bam thank you-mam company!
      It’s about volume and rolling up insurance claims for their business!
      You see the commercials as an on-sight, appointment based, mobile service for the most part!
      I see nothing related to body work being shown in their stores?

      I can only think of brand name glass makers or the ones I have seen as replacements for 240 glass.

      PPG SOLEX is the first that comes to mind and I have seen another one that was FY as I remember.
      The “ticket” is a STOCK number PPG FW 667 or FY’s FW 00667 are on two of my latest 240 models.
      The two look identical so I have no idea how branding figures into all this!

      If the poster can locate dealers of those it will give out more options of installation and price listings!

      Years ago I price replacements windshields from a PNP in Windsor Ca. that had an installer on site.

      I got prices of $110 each but probably without a rubber seal as I didn’t remember to ask about those.

      All I can say is too shop around “caustically” for an installer as most do lousy work because they will not fix rust spots properly, if you have any. The pinch welds are subject to corrosion.
      I have one used car that was done wrong and it hasn’t taken many years for things to go farther south!
      Just because they put goop over a compromised rim of paint, that it won’t rust later!
      It pushes up the goop and you have squishy ripples under the seal material!

      If the poster finds a good solution and I hope that person shares the knowledge, as we all need, all we can get with this maintenance issue.

      Phil



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        While we're on the subject I read somewhere that a 91-93 windshield with a gasket instead of the butyl rubber and chrome trim will fit right on an earlier model. I've tried to find that article online again and can't, can anyone confirm if that is true? I have about a five inch crack in the extreme lower right corner of my windshield and I'll probably just fill it up with some epoxy but just in case I would think a windshield from a later model would be easier to source and you get away from that butyl seal.



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          Hi, while we are on the subject?

          Yes, I have read and noticed that all the windshields are the same size in the 240 series.

          Yes, the rubber gasket does away with the butyl sealant but I don’t know if there isn’t another one used in place of it. Good questions!
          I know that on all the earlier cars, if you go with the new rubber gaskets you have to shed the stainless trim on top.
          The gasket does not have the grooves for the trim to fit into.
          The new glass maybe made to accept only that rubber gasket or comes fitted already?
          So you are literally STUCK with it!

          Like I said in the earlier post I feel lumps under the squishy rubber so if there is rust it ripples the surface.
          I have been getting by with putting black duct tape over the gasket on my right side and super gluing the edges for a few years. I don’t drive the car in the rain unless I’m caught out in it as I have other cars to jump into!
          I do this mostly because of poor workmanship today. It gives you want I hear more often that not, leaking complaints or cracks again!
          One day, I may try it myself, out of curiosity, if I can even do it at as equally bad!
          Most importantly, The rubber gasket needs a nice pinched welded lip to seat on or around to seal.

          Maybe the new gaskets route water away with a subterranean groove out to the base edge of the windshield.
          I just don’t know these things!
          Maybe someone like Dave or Art have mastered these thoughts?

          I have had my rear windows in and out of my 1986 240 wagon to fix rust. A good nylon cord pulls the rubber lips back into place nicely. No butyl’s back there! The water just weeps out until dirt holds it there too much. I surmised, causing rust on the older wagons?
          So, I was brave once and it came out all right!
          POR 15 did a good job but you got to work within its time limits and that made it a little worrisome.

          I read about urethane on “new cars” as it enhances the “integrity” of the upper portion of the cabin.
          From the way they want to slap together cars nowadays, I wouldn’t doubt it at all!
          I also see a lot of cracked windshields and not from rocks either!
          If it’s not debris damage, I wonder if insurances wiggle out of repairing them @ 100% and no deductibles under the comprehensive part of a policy, when it’s known to be a design defect.

          Oh! I forget, Insurance companies rate every car differently to compensate for losses on certain makes and models! BlueBook is governed by whom???
          SafeLite to the rescue to surround that drain hole!


          Phil



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