I've never dealt with a wheel with the airbag. I am changing the wheel and not concerned with maintaining the bag. Are there any safety precautions to take? Disconnect the battery? Leave disconnected for how long before working on it? Anything else? thanks -- Dave

Hi Dave,

Disconnect the battery to avoid a situation where you turn on the ignition while the bag is disconnected, triggering an SRS light.

I've removed/replaced bags in both 240s and 850s - no other precautions were needed. Just don't go applying voltage to the bag connections and you'll be good to go until you have it reinstalled. You are reinstalling the airbag, right? Or is this wheel change for racing purposes?

Regards,
Will
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XC60 / Odyssey

Thank you for the responses Chris, Dave and Will. The car is the 1993 245 in which I've installed an Oldsmobile aluminum 215 V8 and Camaro 5-speed. For the past 20+ years I've been driving a 1980 245 (now officially a parts car) with a 240 Turbo steering wheel as well as having a couple of 240 turbos on the road. I absolutely hate the feel of the full size wheel. Besides, the one in the '93 is separated from the metal 1/2 way around. I have a couple of Turbo wheels and that's what's going on the car. I didn't know what to expect with the airbag as far as wiring for it and the horn -- and whether or not the clockspring has to be dealt with. I will be scrapping the airbag wheel. - Dave

Ahh yes, I forgot about your V8 update.

Shame to lose the safety device but I understand the desire to use the wheel of your choosing. My first 240 (an '82) had a thick rimmed large diameter wheel which I swapped for a smaller one before settling on a large diameter, thin rimmed one out of a '77 245.

Best,
Will
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XC60 / Odyssey

You don’t mention your model and year, also whether you’re planning to replace the air bag. I would be disappointed if you’re planning to defeat the SRS system, plus it’s not legal.

The general SRS safety protocol is to disconnect and safely bag the battery negative lead, wait for the SRS control module capacitors to discharge (10 mins is generally considered quite adequate), avoid static discharge (unlikely deployment, but theoretically possible), avoid having your head in the firing line of an air bag any more than needed (especially when disconnecting/connecting wiring), be extra careful with SRS wiring (do not use a meter), and above all avoid striking/damaging the SRS control module (containing the sensors). Know how to use the OBD system to check/reset the SRS control module (see the FAQ). When in doubt or if you don’t know what you’re doing then refer the job to a qualified technician.

For the steering wheel, keep the front wheels pointing straight forward with the steering wheel centred. Note the precise orientation of the steering wheel on the spline for re-installation (use a scribe to mark the end of the spline). Know to lock the clock spring (aka clockspring) prior to removal (and if needed how to check/reset the clock spring to the neutral position). Have the appropriate socket (deep 27mm for most later RWD, 1-1/16” 6pt should also work, some regular depth sockets will also work), a short extension and preferably a breaker bar and torque wrench (I don’t have the spec handy). If needed, to restrain the steering wheel to loosen/tighten the nut, you can use a rope through the steering wheel and tie it to the top of the door. For 740/940, consider loading extra grease down deep on the upper column bearing (they can dry out, leading to grumbling when parking, use a grease gun with a needle).

For more information, look in the FAQ here and search old posts here and elsewhere (Google is often better at finding things in the FAQ and such old posts than the site search feature here, even though it is Google driven)
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Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

I R&R’d it on my son’s 2003 Saab. Had to do it in order to remove the turn signal switch if you can believe that.

Disconnected the battery and then waited about a 1/2 hour.

Same thing when I had to replace the pyro seat belt tensioner in my V70.

Survived both repairs.

Maybe one of our more electrically savvy members could address the possibility of static charge jumping from mechanic (you) to the airbag assembly via metal tools. And what are the possible repercussions if it DID do that?

I’m not trying to scare you, but by nature I’m always looking for whatever could go wrong.