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hi kit g,arty b , sages, and other malefactors- havent been on the board for a period. been too busy with a plethora of jobs. about to start on water pump replacement. appears to be leaking about 2 quarts a week . pump wet . have replaced many water pumps on old fords, dodges and chevies. eyeballing the 240 pump i see 4 potential troubles. any tricks in getting the old one off. seems leaks on reinstallation likely at the nozzle press up/lever up connection to the cylinder head may occur- should sealant be used. back of pump connects to a metal coolant line to the back and runs to the back of the engine. is the pipe connection to the pump back just a press in fit. what about sealant there too. figure job should take 2hrs. looking at ac delco, gates, and gmb. recall board used to recommend hepu. bet art and kit g have done this job 5 times. your wisdom is appreciated. thanks tons oldduke
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read thru the other posts here.
Add these 'tips' for a leak free install:
1) When inspecting the matting surface on the head Use a Mirror to get a good view of any corrosion/pitting.... polish is away with wet/dry sanding paper.
2) That Metal Heater tube --- another source of leaks in new installs as that seal can get pinched when trying to mount the pump.
If you follow that Metal tube back under the exhaust manifold under the 3/4 cylnder is a Bracket--This bracket bolts to the Block --- 13mm --- remove this bolt to free the Metal tube. It will be still attached/hose clamped to the heater hose but can be moved around a bit.
***After you have polished off any corrosion at the end of the tube, which detaching it from the block will allow you to do easily******
And AFTER the New Water Pump is firmly attached - place the new seal on the end of this Metal tube firmly to the collar on the tube ---- Apply a bit of silicone lube to the seal and INSERT The Tube into the back of the WaterPump --- This will ensure that the seal does not get pinched.
Then reattach the rear of the Metal tube to the block with its bracket/13mm bolt.
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Hey, welcome back!
They're not too bad to do. The separate metal pipe is a little tricky, but not too bad. If you have any oil seeping from the front camshaft seal, it will ruin the top "mushroom" seal on the pump. Good idea to fix that leak (and/or PCV issues) first.
For the pipe, make sure you install the cylindrical seal on the pipe and not in the pump. I add a *little* silicone sealant on the seal, mostly on the back and sides of it. It would not be helpful to put a big lump of silicone into the pump or heater tube. The tube is attached with either a nut and bolt, both 8 or 10mm, or just a small flange bolt. The fastener is in an inconvenient spot (on the bottom, I think).
You'll want to either transfer or replace the fan studs between the old and new pumps. They're about 80 cents each, which seems very worth it to me.
I never had to lever up on anything to get the pump installed. I did have to cut away a little bit of the timing belt cover on one engine, but not on 2 others.
I avoid Bosch pumps like the plague. I had 2 shaft seals fail under warranty and did not get the 2nd one replaced. I think I went with GMB. I try to get the one with the nicest looking impellers, but am not brand loyal.
Cheers!
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HIYA UNCLE OLD DUKE!!!
Glad, pleased, and grateful to see and hear you're back from Tobacco Road under the stinking creek to see you're back from from the war against all for them shysters selling you the wrong water pump for as much as all the gold and silver absent from Fort Knox!!!
Other than a R & R with your 1992 Volvo 240 Wagon water pump, I hope and trust you, your pals, family, and everybody are safe, happy and healthy.
As Uncle Pork Face says!
Use the Volvo seals and gasket! Or maybe Victor-Reinz? I forget who makes the gasket and two seals for Volvo. I did not know Graf made water pumps anymore for our 1992 240s.
I use a clear silicon grease, like SuperLube NLGI 2 from DoIt best or other places, for the gasket and both seals.
As Uncle Pork Face says
- Observe any corrosion. If a pitted block mounting surface you may want to use a slow curing RTV. Most of the RTV has a short working time.
- If the heater core return pipe in the exhaust side is pitted, use an emery cloth to remove like corrosion. If the end is chewed through by a junkyard dog, you may want to find a replacement.
- With grease or sealant or one or both or opposite sides (with some cure time as Pork Face directs for the RTV) yet use some grease on the top seal and the heater return pipe seal, slide the pump on the studs and start the nuts on the studs. You want a small gap so the pump can move for the lever up option.
- You or your assistant will lever up the pump to the pint you can thread the mounting machine bolts. I've also used a section of wooden broom handle, 2" or maybe smaller steel pipe, or a 2 foot or longer breaker, yet I forget where the pivot point is. Lift and hold compressing the top seal, start the machine bolts, and get to a snug state, and as Uncle Pork Face says, tighten in a star pattern as Uncle Pork Face indicates.
I also have the 1997 Haynes Volvo 240 manual instructions I'll record top the BrickPix (if I can if it works today - Jarrod is working on it). Instructions in the 1997 Haynes Volvo 240 Service Manual. I'll have to send that to by email as it is copyright information. Sorry.
Yet also, you have the 700-900 Series FAQ procedure here (copy and paste link into new browser tap or window).
Cooling
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm
Changing a Volvo B230F Water Pump
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/WaterPumpChange.htm
Use a 50%/50% mix of anti freeze and distilled water. Green phosphate free Prestone, Pentosin PentaFrost NF concentrate, Zerex G0-5 or G-48. Contains some silicates to slow or halt the tin loss in the tin / lead heater core solder welds.
Also, if over ten years old, consider a new coolant thermostat.
When your drain your cooling system, you may want to remove the radiator. You inspect through the lower large cooled coolant out port and with adequate light look at the end of the horizontal tubes. If you see they are clogged, you may be able to have a radiator shop boil out the mineral precipitate. Yet if it a plastic side tank radiator, consider the age if over seven or ten years as the plastic side tanks weaken with pressure and heat cycles.
FCP Euro is closer to you as they are in Rhode Island.
There exist many videos on this task on YouToobBube:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=volvo+240+water+pump+replacement
Hope that halps you!
Happy Sundae!
Buttermilk and instant potato boy.
--
Beh.
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hi kit, pork and heck- thanks for your wisdom , sagery and help. btw want to identify this engine correctly when i order the pump. actually it is a 2.3 not a 2.2, right? mea culpa if i misidentified it. r and r of pump on the 240(actually 245 wagon) is a little more involved than on an old dodge slantsix or an old ford six. will keep you posted when i get started. thanks again oldduke
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Hiya Uncle Old Duke!
Water pump is fixed now, yes?
THanks.
--
Beh.
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hi kit- yep. was so busy doing other repairs and sundry business that i hired it out. radiator, stat, hoses and belts were shot too. regards oldduke
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Cheers all
moving pictures --- what a concept--- Hello 1921----Happy New Year....welcome 1921.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0NOcj6pgW4&list=PL8HILNMicoi6frBzfDro05x0W-44D1ZWz&index=165
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hi kit g- always a pleasure to hear from you and benefit from your sagery. hope you are having a happy new year. cooling system parts replaced by my indy mechanic. bottom line was 900. included gmb pump. works fine . temp gage stays between 1/3 and 1/2 of needle travel. no leaks. no frequent refills. friends and enemies have mixed reviews of cost. some say a good deal , others say i went to the cleaners. too many other jobs clogging schedule at time. spent a ton of time for ex on maytag and replacement. plumbing and electrics repair took a lot of time. dough i saved on those jobs done by duke made up for volvo if i was clipped. dont think i was though- checked dealer for same and those jokers wanted 1500. also do wish you were around corner . we could learn from each other. i could even teach you how to cuss heinously. any resolutons yet? didnt make any yet. going instead for a single motto for year. heres one- never give a shyster an even break. what think ? give em hell. oldduke
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when doing the pump, i glue the gasket to the pump, let it dry, smear the block with a little grease, check the head for corrosion or pitting, a little silicone lube, not sealer, same with the o ring for the heater pipe. hang the pump to the block with 2 bolts, attach the pipe, don't tighten. with the largest dowel you can find, tighter the better, lever the pump to the head. tighten the pump bolts, criss cross. tighten the heater pipe. hepu or graf for the pump and a 1336255 seal from the dealer, the others have ALWAYS given me trouble right away or far sooner then the pumps failure. this assumes it's a 2.3, not a 2.2. good luck, chuck.
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To expand on what Chuck wrote--the return pipe for the heater is secured with one bolt--slip the lubed new "O" ring over the pipe and insert in pump. I get all the bolts/nuts started except for the bottom most one. I run the nuts/bolts in gently - not all the way to tight. Then I use the bottom hole to insert a rod (screwdriver or whatever you have that is less than 8mm in diameter) and lever the pump up to squash the upper seal and simultaneously tighten the bolts/nuts and then add the remaining lower bolt. I've used GMB pumps many times--never had a problem. -- Dave
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