Hi, I'm new to the forum, just look for some help/ advice with my 91' 740...
I recently got into a fender bender in my car, and being that it's a beater (235k mi, bought for $900 last year) the engine cross member broke where the left control arm attaches. seeing as the car was already in rough shape before this, I'm trying not to put too much money into it at the moment. So I was wondering if anyone in the Chicago-land area has a Volvo 7/9 series cross member (plus new nuts/ fasteners - mine are rusty and will likely get destroyed while removing them) I could buy from them? I've looked in pick n pull stores in the area and none of them have any 7 or 9 series cars. So any help finding a cross member would be very much appreciated!

Additionally if anyone has any tips/advice for doing this repair job that would be super helpful. I've never done such a major repair to a car, only oil changes, inner/outer tie rods, and brake pad/disc replacement, so I'm pretty nervous about doing this myself.

Thanks!
btw, I hope I posted this to the right part of the forum or if not should I have posted this to the PICKNPULL section?

I easily found my replacement crossmember on car-parts.com

You posted in the right place since you asked for technical help - not just parts wanted. I deal with Pull-a-Part in Winston-Salem when we visit our kids there. No 740 or 940 cars there now. Northern Charlotte shows a 740 and two 940's. They have locations all over the south and their stock of cars can be checked on-line. Maybe a BB'er can help secure a crossmember.
As for the "job". First thing would be to carefully examine the inner fender and strut tower. Any deformation there would require major surgery and maybe make your attempts at repair inadvisable. Assuming all is good there you can proceed. You'll need -- a handy tree from which to hang the motor (or build a "bridge" across the engine bay). I've done 240's using a bridge made of 2x4's. Take as little as possible apart. Support the body at the jack points. Separate the rack from the crossmember leaving all the hoses intact. Separate the struts from the control arms at the ball joints. Remove the bolts securing the motor mounts from the crossmember and disconnect the sway bar. Lift the motor off the crossmember. Remove the bolts from the crossmember to frame - reverse order to install the new crossmember and control arm. I've never done this with a 740/940 -- only 240's -- so some details may not be exactly the same. - Dave

Thanks for the info, I do have a couple of follow up questions though.
First, the damage to the cross member is where the control arm attaches, the bolt attaching the control arm had pulled through the cross member, so I was under the impression I could keep the control arms attached to the wheel hubs and strut tower, and detach the crossmember from the control arms, rather than removing the control arms with, is there some reason the control arms have to be removed? they're undamaged? if pictures of the damage would be of any relevance I can upload some.

Second question: for supporting the engine, can I support the engine with a floor jack? and if so where is a stable and strong enough spot on the engine to support it from? the oil pan? also with supporting the engine I'm going to be doing this repair in my garage, would it be reasonable to use rope or ratchet straps looped over the beams of the garage to support the engine? or maybe just balance the engine while a floor jack supports most of the weight? or am I overthinking how difficult supporting the engine will be?

Also as for the structural stability of the car, the inner fenders and strut towers look in good shape and have no rust. The car really only has rust on the rocker panels (which are mostly gone) and the battery and washer bottle trays. aside from that there's not structural rust (the floors and pillars are surprisingly rust free) so I think the car is I good enough shape to have this repair done.

A floor jack under the motor would work - but not ideal as it will undoubtedly get in the way -- and there's also the danger of damaging the oil pan. If you do go that way use a block of wood between the jack and drain plug. You should also remove the radiator hold down brackets so the hoses and auto trans lines don't stress and the fan has room to move upward. You only have to lift a couple of inches.
Hanging the motor from a rafter may be a better option. To me, building a "bridge" is the safest way to go. - Dave

Get one of these?

https://harborfreight.com/automotive/lifts-cranes-stands/engine-stands/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html