Have a 1980 Volvo 245 - had a B21 engine with single carb Canada

What series is the carb - in case I need parts? SU Hif6 ???

Thanks

http://sucarb.co.uk/float-chambers-spares/needle-valve-kits/hif-needle-valves.html

This is the needle and valve kit available here in the UK. Not expensive.

Owen F

Regarding the question - replace parts? rebuild? What's the difference? Both operations involve replacing parts like the needle, seat, jet, metering needle, gaskets and possibly the float. Rebuilding goes the step further to replace the throttle plate pivot shaft and bushings. Years ago, without changing the bushings (which require some special tools) you could order the pivot shaft and that would correct half the play in the throttle shaft area. It wasn't a perfect fix but went very far in getting an SU to behave. The last time I visited Joe Curto he explained that the throttle shafts no longer come pre-drilled for the pins which hold various linkage bits. That has to be done on a jig made for the purpose. SO - rebuild or replace parts? If you have play in the throttle shafts bring the SU to a specialist. If there's no play and you have the ability to follow instructions you can replace the easily replaceable parts yourself. - Dave

I have had a 1981 with SU carburator. It a model SU-HIF6 and the the tag is FZX 1291 1104 Volvo IMP 237 697. 237697 is the Volvo part number.

I have to go at the summer camp tomorrow so I wont have time to scan and post the detailed parts list and pictures of all the carburator components right now. A nice fellow at the parts counter copied this to me 20 years ago.

I also have the 112 pages Service Manual green book for carburated engines 240, 260 1975-1984.

My actual 1982 came with Solex (Zenith) 175 CD. I converted it to SU-HIF6 because the fuel richness adjustment was too hard to do. There was need for special tool. And this 175CD has 2 rubber diaphragms. SU does not.

I beleive that some production years had both SU and 175CD. If yours has the 2 inch high piston cover it is a SU. If the piston cover is 1 inch high with a rubber diaphragm in it then it is the 175CD.

Which part of Canada do you live ? If you don't find what you want I may be able to help next week.

Thanks - have confirmed its an SU Hif6 and needs float needle valve and seat pair due to flooding
Thats an exciting experience on a hot day - smell of fuel
Live in St. Catharines - 15 min from Niagara falls - don't kid yourself its 95 degrees here

I have an '80-245 with an SU carb too.

If its just the float valve needle and seat that is the problem then this may be all you need.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/fuel+&+air,carburetor,carburetor+repair+kit,5964
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=987560&jsn=365

SU carbs are easy to fix.
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

I in fact would be very happy to find in Canada the metering needle and fuel jet to refresh my SU HIF6. Richness adjustment is to the leanest possible and I see it too rich a idle.

Oversea shipping seem expensive.

Back in Jan 2005, I ordered a nzx8009 needle and crk293 parts from Burlen Fuel Systems in the UK. Cost was $88.05 Cdn including postage. Paid another $22.54 duty.

I had accidentally bent the needle. The jet's brass seat needed replacing because of wear caused by the steel needle.

From what I remember, the jet is a simple design and someone with a bit of experience could probably remove and replace the brass part crimped to the aluminum tube. (No, I didn't remember the above part numbers and prices.)
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1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

Mike,
a online small fuel filter cartridge is very important. It does prevent small partcles or fibers to interfere with the float needle valve. An other problem could be the float is leaking some fuel inside, then it does not have enough pressure on the needle valve.

1- I would suggest you open the carb bottom and take out the needle valve and purge the fuel inlet with compreesed air. Now in doing this you might find the bottom cover seal hardened, and it may not be re-usable. I ever soffened that seal to gain some time by dipping it in lacquer thinner. Not too long because it does swell pretty fast.

2- While carb. is out you can have someone turn the ignition key to turn the engine while you place the fuel hose in a can . Make sure the coil +12 volt is disconnected and isolated. This operation will purge the fuel pump (mechanical I suppose) and also the feedline. 150ml should be sufficient.

3- Put a inline filter cartridge before the fuel pump. I use the all metal type. I place it near the firewall and make sure it does not touch the steering column. Use new fuel hoses and collars every where.

If you are lucky you will be able to re-use the bottom cover seal. You might not need the float needle valve either.

This is my experience since 1967 with a 122s, a 1972 144, a 240 1981 b21a and now the 1982 b21a.

I will be away for the next 5 days so I wont be able to help.

Good luck.

In the UK there are many older cars fitted with SU carbs. When overhauling them it's usual to fit a viton tipped needle in the float chamber - works much better than the original type. Should be available from SU specialist or old British car suppliers.

Owen F

Thanks for the help. Symptoms were - car started bucking and surging and got slower and slower till it stopped. Could start it and rev to 4k no problem but as soon as clutch released it stalled out.
Replaced electric fuel pump and filter. Car started and ran for a while - when I shut off and restarted it would not start after 5-6 tries - then I smelled gas so I stopped - flooding.
Mechanic says need a needle, seat and a float thats all. After checking SU parts on line, shipping, exchange
found a SU overhaul shop - he says its a SU Hif44 and he has all new parts and can rebuild fo $300
- since its been on the car 40 yrs I'm thinking this is the way to go - 4 day turn around! - rather than just replace individual parts (it may end up needing more?)

Any opinions on that decision?

I lean towards a rebuild

Depends on how confident you are in doing the rebuild yourself? That price sounds expensive to me, but then I do this sort of repair myself. SU carbs are straightforward in construction and in rebuilding, and a needle, seat and float should be very straightforward in my view. But you want it done properly, so the choice is yours.

Owen F

For what it's worth, you're not limited to only SU or Stromberg. I recently removed all the fuel-injection system from my '79 244, and installed a Holley 5200 series 2 barrel carb which is actually a Weber clone. It runs great.

I have a fair amount of experience with the Weber/Holley 32/36 (found on Vegas and Pintos) and they make a good choice for everyday driving. There are lots of choices if you are creative. I once bought a 1970 142 which had the twin sidedrafts removed and blocked and a simple tube welded to the cover for the central mixing chamber and a Vega single barrel mounted to it. It was a slug till I opened the main jet to 50 percent bigger. - Dave

I think if the carb looks like an SU, it's likely to be an SU or a Stromberg. There are some Japanese clones of SU's, but they aren't very common and I'd be surprised to find one on a 245.

Owen F

Are you sure it's an SU. I did a couple of Canada carb conversions on B21F motors. In each case the carb was a Stromberg. I think that series is called the 175CD. 175 would indicate the throttle size as 1 3/4". - Dave

I would suspect David is correct. A Stromberg carb would seem to be most likely fitted to a Canadian Volvo of this period. A photo from the OP would quickly resolve this

Owen F

I have pictures - confused with how to post though

These instructions courtesy of Art Benstein

There should be a tag on the carb with a part number on it
SU specialists such as Burlen Fuel Services should be able to provide all the information you require.

Owen F