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Hi,
Check out the throttle switch to see if it clicks upon opening up off the throttle stop screw.
Better yet, unplug the connector and check the terminals with an ohmmeter to see it do the change of state thing each time when opened and closed.
“Change of state” is when the meter changes from one reading to another or none to one from where is was before it was moved or energized. How much of a reading, is not truly relevant in this case.
The switch gives the computer a heads up that you are coming off the idle mode, of which, the idle valve is holding and drops out.
A bad switch or idle valve sticking can be problematic when starting up or driving up to a stop light.
The idle valve should raise the idle up high and then bring it down to idle if it’s working properly with the throttle.
No using of the gas pedal needed to get the car started.
The next thing would be to pull the accordion hose from the throttle body and AMM and look for cracks and wear holes down in the volutes.
Having holes will upset mixture readings given from the AMM, because of unmetered air entering the system down stream. This also means vacuum lines or the EGR, if so equipped.
If all is good and I mean even wiping out the throttle bore of any crud, since you have the hose off, to see that the throttle plate can get completely closed.
This should clear issues with the computer getting wrong information from the switch.
Since the fuel pump is overheating the fuse, you might want to be suspicious of how old the pump is.
It may be getting worn out and turning very hard internally and you are then receiving a very low quantity or volume of fuel.
You might need to do a test for “amount of fuel delivery,” noted in lots of manuals, to rule out the main pump or even the in-tank pump operation. Maybe you are running out of fuel above idle.
A fuel pressure test is helpful also if you have a way to attach a gauge on to the fuel rail. I believe that car has a Schrader port, but it’s upside down, apparently for some safety reason, not for easy access.
The AMM going bad is a possibility or even a rats nest in the air filter housing ahead of it. Rare but it happens even in tailpipes?
Does the car sit outside over a grassy area? Rodents love to chew and make homes!
Much like the Boll Weevil song by Brook Benton. He says, I’m Just looking for a home!”
I’m so glad I found you!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kVwjYptcnAY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oixhxEM5Ipg
Hotel Happiness
There is not a test for AMM’s to be done by car owners. Substitution of a know good one in there is the other test @$100 a pop or more, if they can get it!
A bad AMM acts like yours except it will start a lot harder and idling is questionable at times.
It will have lousy power, in most cases, but that is “limp mode.”
Some unplugging and replugging up the AMM, “ONLY in the engine off mode” to get a sense of whether or not it’s in limp mode.
This triggers the limp mode from my understanding, that it will idle, but not drive well.
You will want to go to this idea as the very last test. This is why it at the bottom of the post.
You should have more information on this, than I have told you about!
This web site is a good source from other posters, who have more experiences than I have had with my cars!
Hope this helps you with possibilities, as I sure can come up with them! (:-)!
There’s no doubt I can make long posts but I have competition on here at times! Meow! (:)
Phil
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