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I did a complete oil change.my Dogmobile has 285,000 miles. it was leaking oil.I put a quart of kerocene in drove it slow 30mph for 2 miles did a complete oil drain & filter change.filled up w napa synthetic& a Volvo brand drove about 3000 miles w out a drop of oil leaked out!!
So whenever i checked the level it was full & very clear hard to see. I rubbed the dipstick on a towel.
Then I switched the filter to a Mahle filter right away I filled another quart of Napa Syn & ran it a day & NOW the oil looks dirty again???
After this Ill only use VOLVO filters & ill send the mahle back as defective.
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“discard used oil filters in household trash.”, not a chance! Landfills have enough crap in them. Check your local regs for proper disposal.
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never I rain them & collect a box of used parts to return to FCP!! they guarantee all parts for life!!!
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The WalMarts in my area will take both your used oil AND filter for recycling.
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Your one experience on changing one filter is statistically insignificant. Not a conclusive study/test. As others have opined, the kerosene likely loosened up a lot of crud. “Most” oil filters have an anti-drainback valve and an over pressure relief, and will catch that crud. So, your experience is interesting, but synthetic oil will also loosen up a lot of crud, better than kerosene, as it does so over time, not sending chunks into small passageways.
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Everyone agrees that synthetic oil is superior to Dino oil.
Some say never change oil, just the filter. Oil doesn't wear out, it just gets dirty.
I have never tried it, but it seems to me one could use synthetic, change the filter at say 3K, and just look at the oil from time to time. If the oil looks clean, why change it? When it turns black, change it. Once again, I have not tried this but it seems logical.
Has anyone out there ever changed filters regularly, and left the oil alone?
My dad changed his oil on visible dirt, not mileage.
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What would interesting is too send out sample to be tested to see if its needed.
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Personally, I never have. However, to answer your question, I have read here that some folks have changed their filters but reused the oil. Their thinking was that synthetic will last 8-10k miles but the filter might not. So change the filter not the oil.
I agree with the other recent posters. Oil is cheap. Do believe if using synthetic one can lengthen the change interval. So when using synthetic I will change oil and filter every 5-7k. When using Dino oil, I changed oil/filter every 3-4K.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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hi sages- interesting thread here. did not know rebuilt b230 engines are not available anymore. not surprising if last 240 was93. mine has hit 250k . hope it lasts until 400k. been driving for 55 years. always changed oil and filter with name brands and at 3-4k miles. no problem. synthetic oil word is that it extends the interval to 7k miles, but no new car manufacturer says that. in fact word is that doing that voids the new car warranty on the engine. what think you . thanks tons oldduke
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olduke wrote, regarding synthetic oil - "word is that it extends the interval to 7k miles, but no new car manufacturer says that." My son is a BMW and MiniCooper tech - they have a 15k interval schedule. Maybe with very precise fuel metering there is less contamination from combustion but I'll stick with my oil/filter changes at 3k for my dino oil cars and 5k for the S40 with synthetic. - Dave
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Hi Old duke, my Lexus ES 350 specifies an oil change every 10k miles or 12 months. Uses a Toyota house brand synthetic. Purportedly made by Mobil One to Toyota specs.
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My 2017 VW Alltrack is exactly the same interval. Although so far it has been changed at 7k intervals. Recommended oil is Castrol Pro Edge (synthetic).
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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"synthetic oil word is that it extends the interval to 7k miles, but no new car manufacturer says that."
Mentioned up above, but I'll repeat for emphasis. MANY new cars have systems that monitor operating conditions and recommend when to change the oil. My daughter's bottom of the line Honda Fit --- dash readout will say "80% of oil life", "50% of oil life, "20% of oil life", etc -- then lights a little wrench icon in the dash when you need to get the oil/filter serviced. It's gone as much as 8500 miles on synth before the system tells you it's time for a change - that's in a very urban downtown Atlanta commute environment. My wife's 97 BMW318i also had an oil change indicator system in it. When she was doing a lot of highway driving caring for her dad in another city -- it would often go 10k-12k miles before it signaled time for an oil change. Both of those cars owner's manuals specified synthetic oil only in the engine.
So, in effect, there are some new car manufacturers that recommend "extended intervals" with synthetic. The other side of the coin -- our newer Subarus have stuck with a 3750 mile/6month (whichever comes first) interval WITH synthetic oil.
Read your manual. And if you really want to know what kind of shape YOUR engine is in used the way YOU USE it, and how long you can safely go on change intervals -- send a sample of used oil into Blackstone Labs. You'll learn a TON about the shape your motor is in and if you're willing to do it 2-3 times, how long you can safely extend your change interval to. 7000k miles during the summer commuting in stop/go traffic in Houston in a 3 cyl Geo Metro tasks the oil completely differently than 7000k miles of highway driving on flat roads in the midWest in a new V8 powered pickup that's turning over about 1300 rpm at highway speeds. One size does nof fit all when it comes to safe AND efficient intervals.
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Dear Burco,
Hope you're well. The costs of oil and a filter - $20 for five quarts of Synthetic oil and a Mann 917 filter - are trivial relative to the cost of replacing a worn-out engine.
Working fluids - lube oil, coolant, automatic transmission fluid, and gear oil - are not places to try to economize.
With proper care, B230 engines certainly are good for 400,000 miles. Now, factory re-built engines are not to be had, and even re-build kits are not easy to find..
Thus, it is better to change oil a little too often, than the reverse.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Many solid pieces of info given here.
Black oil may or may not signal oil change needed, certainly not on a diesel, but I can see why you would not change your oil if the oil on the dip stick was clean. Cant see acid in oil though. Synthetic oil has come way down in price and dino has gone up to where they are close in price. It probably pays to go with synthetic, maybe double the miles between changes, and change the filter after 3K. I have always gone by the 3K change rule, though I dont mind extending it when I make those 2K mile trips between Dallas and Louisville KY.
Never tried syn ATF, auto trans give me the willys. Since I keep cars forever it might be a good idea.
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I still stick to the 3000 mile changes and filter. $20 each time.
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Oil appearance is not a reliable indicator of the oil’s ability to do its job. Perfect example - a diesel will “dirty” its oil shortly after fresh oil is put in. Oil looks bad but is brand new. A lot of big rigs with super filtration systems change their oil based on submitting a sample for analysis... not uncommon to see them go 30k miles on a change with oil that is black.
Oil doesn’t just “get dirty” - time, heat and the formation of acids and other nastiness reduce its ability to lubricate safely. Simply changing a filter doesn’t “fix” that.
Longer change intervals are possible with synthetics. Oil analysis should be used to determine how long you can safely go between changes. I go ahead and change the filter at the oem recommended interval regardless. Many newer cars monitor operating conditions and recommend a change interval. Be sure you follow the manufacturer’s recommendation on TYPE of oil if you’re using the vehicle’s recommendation on when to change. Most change algorithms are based on the assumption that synthetic is being used. If you use regular dino oil and follow the car’s recommendation on changes based on synth, you can go 10k-12k miles which is MUCH too long for dino oil.
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Dear Blindboy,
Hope you're well. Your use of kerosene surely loosened and liquefied a lot of crud that had adhered to oil galleries, the inside of the oil pan, etc. This crud "left" when you drained the kerosene and changed the filter. The full-synthetic oil you then used stayed "clear" for 3,000 miles.
Why then, did you change the filter, without also changing the oil? Full-synthetic oil is good for at least 5,000 miles (some would argue for 7,500 miles). Was the oil subject to high stress, e.g., towing a near-max load on very hot days in a mountainous region?
It is hard to understand how a factory-fresh filter could discolor oil, unless a chunk of oil system crud - that had resisted your clean-up - suddenly liquefied. That would change the oil's color, independent of the filter's make.
I briefly used a couple of Bosch oil filters. I noticed that the oil warning light stayed "on" for a bit longer than it had, when I used Mann 917 filters. That was confirmed when I switched back to Mann filters. The internals of the Bosch and Mann filters must be different. I think Mann filters have a back-flow preventer, that holds oil in the filter, so reducing the time needed after start-up to build oil system pressure.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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The kerosene has loosen a lot of gunk. Sometimes not the best Ideal. You can loosen too much gunk in an older engine and cause blockages in all the oil splashing areas. Piston oiling passages. should just keep flushing with cheaper oil and then Synthetic. My 745 was so neglected when I brought it, the oil was more like black water. Had to change the oil three time at around 500 miles each just to get all the loosen gunk that the fresh oil detergent effect has on dirty internals of the engine. Check your crankcase breather for restrictions. They blow seals out when clogged.
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Purolator is wholly owned by Mann. Much as Michelin owns Uniroyal - and much Michelin technology has found their way into the Uniroyal line, I think you'd be fine using Purolator filters as well -- particularly if availability/price on the Mann's is prohibitive.
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As Michael stated, Purolator is a subsidiary of Mann+Hummel. So is Wix. NAPA filters are Wix filters in a NAPA paint job, typically with the first digit of the Wix part number omitted. (The B21/23/230 item is a Wix 51521 = NAPA 1521).
Mann could (maybe) be using the Wix and Purolator lines as their value range of filters or figuring they could sell more filters in America using an American filter name, but all three rank very well in those oil filter "tests" you can easily find on YouTube. The ones where they cut filters apart and talk about their internals. Interesting, if not particularly scientific. I use Mann on the Volvos, but NAPA/Wix on other cars.
With regard to the original post, a change in oil colour is highly unlikely to be caused by a different brand of filter. I suspect Spook identified the probable cause.
--
Son's XC70, daughter's XC60, my 83 244DL, 89 745 (Chev LT-1 V8), and XC60. Also '77 MGB with Chev V6, and four old motorcycles. Long gone: 1981 244, 1994 940 and 1998 S90.
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hi sages- curious messages about oil filters. where would you go to get purolator oil filters? don't find them here in southeast florida. will check pep boys and reillys. think purolator is the original oil filter in America. always preferred them over others. will try to find one of them for my 92 245. that has the 4cyl with the m47. still pumps about 25 mpg in suburban driving. still doesn't burn any oil between changes(250k miles). still get cussed and foul gestured at red light launches. why? thanks tons oldduke
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Always walked in to any of the big box parts stores and pulled Purolator off the shelf - Autozone, NAPA, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, O’Reillys.
https://www.walmart.com/browse/auto-tires/oil-filters/purolator/91083_1074765_8697188_1044301/YnJhbmQ6UHVyb2xhdG9y
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https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-oil-filter-240-242-244-245-740-850-940-960-s70-v70-mann-351785olvois mann!! Fcp /guarantees all parts including filters for life!!
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Are you telling me that FCP will trade your used oil filter for a new one?
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yes.they guarantee for life ALL PARTS
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Dear Blindboy,
Hope you're well. The cost of shipping a used oil filter will exceed the cost of buying a new filter.
The used filter has to be shipped in the factory-original box, which box must then be enclosed in a shipping carton. Next, the used filter needs to be accompanied by FCPGroton's return form, properly completed. Then, the boxed filter has to be taken to a UPS or FedEx Ground pick-up point. The cost of the time to do all of these things - plus packing materials - makes returning used filters a waste of money.
Used oil filters cannot be mailed: the oil left in the filter is flammable. Things that are flammable - with a few exceptions - cannot be mailed.
In short, buy Mann filters, used them, drain them, and discard used oil filters in household trash.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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i SAVE ALL ITEMS UP FOR 1 BOX TO SEND BACK.FCP HAS NEVER ASKED FOR THE ORIGINAL BOXES
VOLVO FILTERS ARE MADE BY MANN
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Actually - almost every item shipped every day is in a very flammable cardboard box. Flammable liquids can often be shipped. But they have to be declared and packaged properly. I’ve been shipping liquid used oil samples for analysis to Blackstone Labs in Ft. Wayne for 30 years.
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Dear MichaelYoung,
Hope you're well. You're correct as to engine oil having a flash-point sufficiently high, that it is not deemed a hazardous material owing ot its flammability.
I'd guess that used oil - because of its other contents (e.g., combustion products and metal particles) - might be a "hazmat", but still acceptable in small amounts, for ground transportation only.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
Spook
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Volvo/Mann oil filters are the best. That’s all I ever used on my Volvos.
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Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....
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