Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 6/2005 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

1991 240 Alternator Issues 200

1991 Volvo 240 141,000 miles automatic transmission California car.

1. In the process of removing the alternator to R&R the bushings, the wire from the engine harness got ripped out from the connection to the oil pressure switch which is on the engine block just in front of the oil filter. There is a bullet-type connector that attaches the wire to the switch. The old one is now destroyed. Where would I get another that will fit?

2. Is there a way to know whether or not the alternator bearing is failing? I ask because at one point in recent months I noticed that there was only one fan belt running the water pump and alternator. Normally there are two. A couple of months later, the remaining belt broke. It seems unusual for two belts to break in a relatively short period of time. I can only speculate that the first one broke while driving. The second one looked shredded and was still dangling there because when it broke, all belt movement stopped. These belts were installed about three years ago. I considered several possibilities.
- both belts failed due to getting oil soaked because of the oil leak. The first one likely failed and fell off while driving without being noticed.
- the alternator seized twice, causing the first belt to fail, then seized again later causing the second belt to fail
- both failed because the A/C and power steering belt pulleys were out of alignment due to worn accessory bushings . I had observed that the pulleys were not aligned.
- both failed due to excessive tightening of the belts by the mechanic who last changed the timing belt and seals.
Although the alternator seizing up seems unlikely, I want to be more certain before finishing up the oil leak repair while the engine front is taken apart. I've finished installing new bushings on the alternator and have observed on the work bench that it turns smoothly without any noise. At an interim point after removing the belts but prior to removing the alternator and before adjusting the tightness of the belt, I drove the car and observed the most awful tortured and loud sound . It did not sound like the customary belt squeal. It could be heard throughout the neighborhood, especially when accelerating. Squirting water on the belt helped just a little. That convinced me that there must be a bad bearing. However, and to my relief, all of that stopped when I tightened the belt to specifications. Is a smooth turning pulley sufficient to conclude that the bearing is not failing?








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    1991 240 Alternator Issues 200

    Hi,

    This is just a thought on your short loud noise that the neighbors could hear and you know it wasn’t from a cat under the hood!

    You might want to check out the part of the wiring harness where is goes under the front of the engine from the alternator.
    If you have had a “long time soaking of oil” down in that harness, you might be working with an intermittent short to ground. The regulator responds very quickly to drops of tenth of volt.
    It might be the dash wire from the cluster.
    Insulation does break down or soften under the oils cleaning additives and harsh cleaning soaps for the engine.

    There is also the big wire that goes all the way over to the starter and on up to the battery.
    This is an unfused circuit due to the amount of great draw from the starter when it is operated.
    Likewise, the alternator can push current the other way back!

    This is not an unknown phenomenon and could cause a momentary “squeal” from the alternator when it’s regulator reads a dramatic drop in voltage due to the load or grounding of the exciter wire. The light will never blink on but a voltmeter will wave!
    The alternator can make squeaks and rumble at the same time and any the bad mounts can contribute to the noise you heard!


    Three years is quite a long time for most run of the mill “basement quality belts” sold.
    That is until the GoodYear “The Quiet Belt” brand came along.
    Gates and Continental were envious for a few years.
    As I had remembered they were made in New Jersey from a special shop there.
    They had a nice proprietary poly rubber composition and the angular tooth notch design used within the industrial side of commerce. Just something I knew from within my working days and not liking large horsepower motors making a seating/slip noise and overheating their pulleys. That excessive friction leads to bearing failures!

    Then came the, “Made in Mexico” and that made me look them up!
    Now they are part of Continental’s of family of products. They like good stuff too!
    Maybe? made in Germany, the USA or Mexico? It’s a global economy today!
    About five years back they bought out GoodYear”s automotive belt line but left the “GatorBack” brand name recognition behind.
    The old adage of what is yours, stays yours but I if get my name on it, it’s ALL mine!

    The Engine belts I find now, that are identical in tooth design, but are by Continental Elite “ONLY!” The full name was Goodyear/Gator Back “Matchmakers.”
    So if you want them, you have to be very careful to expressly look for or ask that you want the “ELITE” versions!

    Just like other things, there is good and there’s better, with cheap and inferior always lurking within an easy reach! Luckily some companies have standards!
    You see it’s what happens if you make a great product you get headhunted!
    Many marketing outlets look only for the bottom line products for net profits!
    Goodyear got very hard to find due to a percentage bottom line on both sides of the aisle automotive wise! Industrial is a whole animal unto itself!

    I still have had good luck with these sizes below fitting the many cars that I have.
    They run about $1 or $2 more but in the long run you don’t hear them making squishy/ whirlybird sounds a year or so later. I get an easy four or five years on them.
    Sort of matches coolant changes today!

    Alternators
    15371 = 925 millimeters
    11AV0925

    Power steering
    15356
    It wider than stock and It rides a little higher in the pulley. This helps to deadened the PS pulley “diaphragm like” speaker cone effect.
    There is plenty of adjustment downwards to allow for it.
    11AV0890

    Air Conditioning
    17386 = 980 millimeters. I have gotten away with Car Quest Green stripe brand but those makers can change direction at any time, like a dogs tail!
    13AV0980 or a 975 works


    Just a few heads up thoughts and it’s all I can say for right now.

    Phil








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

      1991 240 Alternator Issues 200

      Thanks Phil for your thoughts on possible causes of the squeal, and for your comments on various brands of belts. That squeal was like nothing else I had heard before. I was convinced that a bearing was being forced against its will. I couldn't imagine a belt being that loud and tortured. If we need to do an emergency evacuation in our neighborhood at night, I could loosen that belt and drive around to wake up the sleeping neighbors. The good news is that tightening the belt eliminated the noise. There is no longer a squeal at any speed. I will be installing new belts from FCP Euro, Continentals I believe.
      You have me scared with your comment of a three year life on some belts. I have a 60 Olds that I acquired in 1990. It has the same drive belts as the day I acquired it and they didn't look new then. I should think about changing those 30+ year old belts maybe?
      Speaking of the quality of rubber products, the radiator hoses on this Volvo are factory. Apparently Volvo hoses have a good reputation for longevity. Any reason to consider getting new hoses?








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    1991 240 Alternator Issues 200

    Install new belts properly then -

    Before you start the car open the hood and as soon as the car starts cold, listen to the alternator - I have found that alternators in older cars make a sort of rumbling noise because the initial load of recharging the battery loads the bearings.

    You might even turn the lights on for 5 to 10 minutes before you start the car to discharge the battery a bit.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    1991 240 Alternator Issues 200

    A smooth spinning shaft - alternator or other -- should be an indication of being OK -- except if it seems to spin TOO easily indicating a dry condition (but just short of being "bad"). If you had an oil leak soaking the belts it wouldn't be surprising that they failed within a short time of one another. - Dave







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.