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Intermittent Stalling: Update

So,since my last post, I've actually been able to recreate this problem under certain conditions. This is what I'm experiencing with my sons's 1990 240 Turbo Sedan.

1. Twice, heading down the road, at about 50 mph, the car suddenly lost power and then stalled. I fiddled around with it a bit, jiggled the wiring harness near the CPS and it started up again. Ran fine the rest of the way home.

2. Several times, usually in the morning, the car will turn over but not fire. Then it will fire, but sputter and then die when I put it into drive. Once, I put pressure on the wires connected to the Fuel Pump Relay and it started again immediately. After a few minutes, it becomes normal and drives perfectly.

I can generally feel the relay clicking. I know its not the crankshaft sensor (I've replaced it twice with OEM parts). I can hear the fuel pumps buzz when I jump fuses 4 and 6. I've replaced the 25A fuse under the hood.

Could it be the female connector to the relay, maybe? The ECU, itself? The entire harness? Any thoughts. It feels electrical to me. The times when I've been able to fix it roadside or in the drive, I've basically just moved wiring around, or reconnected the relay, or put a little pressure on the wires by the relay connector. But each time I think I've isolated the area, I try to adjust it and it doesn't take.








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    Intermittent Stalling: Update

    Have you given any thought to trying my suggestion from last month's post concerning this problem.

    It would help narrow down the source if it is electrical in nature.

    https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1670389/1990_240_sedan_fuel_line_problem_stalling_intermittently.html

    Randy
    --
    Any twenty minute job is just a broken bolt away from a three day ordeal








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    Intermittent Stalling: Update

    Hi TMayall,

    I've not seen many 1990 240 turbos.

    I would check the small wire terminals at the coil for corrosion or looseness. It may not be your problem, but it was mine once, and it's easy to eliminate it as a potential source.

    Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think that you can verify power is getting through the 25 amp fuse, the relay and ECU by checking the orange wire at the AMM. If you carry a test light with you and it stalls, or wont start, pull back the rubber boot at the AMM connector. There should be power between that wire and ground with the key on. I think most people would do this only after a simple spark test came out negative, but that's up to you.

    regards, Peter








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      Intermittent Stalling: Update 200 1990

      If 1990 240 with Turbo, maybe:
      -- +Turbo equipped, applying 740-940 Turbo engine control to a naturally aspirated engine. Turbo works, Turbo ECUs, and wire harness.
      -- Or a Turbo engine swap from a Turbo model. Most likely 740-940.

      Usually electrical issues form as a result after the successful mod.

      As you and Mr. Starkie suggest.

      Power, wire harness connectors, sensors like the CPS, and so forth.
      --
      Jonathan Harshman Winters III: The Mightiest, Greatest, & Most Powerful North American Comedian & Comedic Actor in Perpetuity







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