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RWD - Engine out to seal leaks... should I just buy an L-block and rebuild and install it instead?

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Engine out to seal leaks... should I just buy an L-block and rebuild and install it instead? 200

I'm working on my 1990 245 getting rust restored, painted and all leaks fixed

I've pulled the tranny for said job and I'm about to pull the engine

I read somewhere that the L-block B230 engines were better - should I try to find one of those while the rust is getting repaired and rebuild it or should I just pull my K-block and rebuild it for reinstallation?

I'm hoping to drive this to my grave and I'm about to turn 61

any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Jack
--
Bad Blue - '86 245 with 303,000 mi. (now for parts), Good Green 1990 245 with 178,000 mi., Blacky - '91 740 wagon with 180,000 mi., Mean Green - '94 850 with 222,000





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    Engine out to seal leaks... should I just buy an L-block and rebuild and install it instead? OR put a turbo in there!!!?? 200

    Thanks guys! and sorry for getting lost on this thread for a bit...

    the K-Block in the 1990 245 that I'm pulling (I think it is a K-Block) has about 230,000 miles on it and has been running strong

    I'm gonna have to figure out how old the engine that I found somewhere a long time ago is and I can't know how many miles is on it unfortunately as I got it well after having been removed from it's original sedan by another owner.

    perhaps the advantage of having it out of the car making it easier to reseal and clean up is not as good as the advantage of knowing the "devil that I know" better than the "devil that I don't know"

    maybe I should make a new thread about finding a turbo 240 engine and putting that in there instead! - that could be fun but I don't know about longevity!

    --
    Bad Blue - '86 245 with 303,000 mi. (now for parts), Good Green 1990 245 with 178,000 mi., Blacky - '91 740 wagon with 180,000 mi., Mean Green - '94 850 with 222,000





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    Engine out to seal leaks... should I just buy an L-block and rebuild and install it instead? 200

    Youre not Peter max are you?? Yea id find a 93+ b230 engine I believe they have oil squirters??





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      Engine out to seal leaks... should I just buy an L-block and rebuild and install it instead? 200

      Hi,

      If the oil squirt engine is what you are looking for, that would be considered an improvement.
      I have looked at the sides of blocks on some earlier years.
      I noticed that bumps appeared casted on the side of the oil galley that travels the length of the block rearward from the oil filter attachment point.

      The bumps were added to give more depth so the threading tap could get in deep enough.
      I think the earlier L-blocks can be up dated. I read someplace, that BMW oilers can be used if crossed drilled and tapped into the oil gallery.
      I have no idea what threads are used or if anything is very special or unique to BMW or Volvo pricing for them?

      You might want to research that out.
      Over the last several years the crankshaft was made with changes to the journals in diameter and their width. Pistons got thinner for quicker responses in RPM climb!
      Thinner rods and alike were also done but some say piston slap was the result and the need for oilers? Volvo experimented a bunch with turbos too!

      All in all, there are gives and take away, to be had in longevity, for what ever the performance gain.

      Personally, I think it’s easier to pull the transmission and engine as a unit.
      This must have turned into a progressive project and still is!

      Phil





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        Engine out to seal leaks... should I just buy an L-block and rebuild and install it instead? 200

        The original poster did not mention the mileage on the motor or how well it runs. Oil squirters would be a fine upgrade but hardly necessary to achieve longevity. At a little over 300k my 1980 245 has instant oil pressure on startup (to my mind indicating a good oil pump and no excessive bearing wear), uses no oil on long trips and will run to max rpm readily. I've owned it since 125k and have done oil changes (Castrol GTX) every 3k (or close to it). A rebuild ($) would only be indicated by oil burning or loss of power due to valve leakage. If the motor is coming out for a reseal I'd pull the pan and check a main bearing and a rod and if good just button it back up. -- Dave





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