I need to clarify my hastily written notes for removing the NSS. You need to be able to raise the shift lever assembly up about 3/4" or so in the metal housing to gain enough clearance to slide the NSS off the plastic pins. This requires removal of the lower arm and driving the main pin out the other side to free the shifter assembly from the metal housing. This could be done from below, but you're best off to disconnect the shifter from the trans link from below and pull the whole assembly up out of the tunnel to remove the arm and pin from above.

If you need more access below the shifter panel surrounding the shift lever, such as when replacing the shift indicator blind, you can safely wiggle the shift lever straight up about 3/4" in the assembly before the guts get stopped by the remaining smaller pin at mid-height with the e-clip retainer. You might be tempted to remove that pin so you can get even more access, but you will regret it as the guts and a spring will come with it and it's all extremely difficult to get back together correctly. On reassembly, when you wiggle the lever back down and center it in the openings, do remember to carefully look around the edge of the openings to make sure the rubber seals on both sides of the lever are properly seated and not pinched in or folded out anywhere. If you later have difficulty pushing the lower arm back on, doublecheck the seals in those openings).

Additional notes.
o The OD wire does not need to be disconnected at the trans as there's normally enough slack, but it does make things a bit easier.
o To disconnect the ignition shift lock cable after backing off the adjuster sleeve, reach back under the front of the indicator panel with bent needle nose pliers to grab the end of the cable and push the ball back out of its retaining socket (as I recall the shifter needs to be in the Park position to allow this). If you need better access to the cable adjuster sleeve, you may want to pull out and raise the relay tray a bit.
o Be careful when wiggling the wires that go to the shift indicator bulb holder and the shift lock microswitch as they easily break at the solder points and you will have to do the re-soldering in the car rather than at your work bench. During handling, I keep these wires restrained with tape to restrict movement near the solder points.