Hi Everyone,

I picked up a pristine chrome factory roof rack with hardware and gaskets. I want to install it on my non-roof rack wagon. I've been using rain gutter mounted bars. Any ideas as to how much weight it can hold distributed across the bars?

Is the roof reinforced or need to be in the mount spots? Is it as simple as drilling holes, pulling the headliner to install nuts and washers?

Thanks, Jim

For heavy loads, you could actually use two sets (four bars) provided you can arrange them so that they are level - or use a piece of plywood with blocks attached to level the load.

You could also add hooks to the plywood to make tie-down easier.

Try an auto body supply store to see many types of fasteners. My shop has hundreds of fasteners for auto trim as well.

1 - A chrome rack is not "correct" for a 92 245. It would be the later black rack.

2 - I have installed a rack on a 245 using the factory rack kit, which included the expansion nuts, gaskets and template for drilling holes. I also sealed the holes with black RTV. No issues. All work from above. No need to remove headliner (unless you want to super seal the nut holes).

That said... If I had not had the factory kit with template, I would not attempt to mount a rack. Big risk of not aligning the holes properly.

I do like racks on wagons. I find them super useful, as my bricks are tools. The factory rack is good for smaller things, like bicycles, light lumber, lawn chairs, etc... Then I use the bigger Thule bars for heavier loads.

Good luck.

Thanks for the great info everyone!

Now I'm second guessing the install. At 110lbs, it won't be all that useful to me as many times I'm way over that. I mostly haul canoes, kayaks, bikes, lumber, and steel stock. My current Yakima bars have done 400lbs plus of plate steel. It was a slow top-heavy drive, but flawless.

I just kind of liked the beautiful chrome rack even though all my trim is satin black. If I do install it, I'll go with the nut and silicone.

Thanks much, Jim

I meant to add, when hauling something long I planned on leaving my current front bar on. Seems kinda crazy. I'll just keep the current bars. Thanks for the info.

Jim

If you fancy something retro, look out for a 145 factory rack with the wood slats. They go the length from the B post to the back. Not the ultimate in load carriers but means you can throw on random bags and boxes and hold them down with a net and/or bungee cords. I have a similar one on my Amazon Wagon.
Volvo also does a full-length aluminium one for "antique dealers". There is also an even longer one with vertical supports down to the front bumper.
2or 3 Volvo or Thule bars gutter to gutter can cope with canoes, ladders and the like though, so good to have.

Quik and Easy clamps just add the wood.

https://www.mountainsports.com/product_images/146480lg.jpg

Just a small rant:
the worst thing that was done to autobody design, in the attempt to increase gas mileage ---- Eliminating Rain Gutters across the complete line of vehicles manufactured.

Build wrote--"Is it as simple as drilling holes, pulling the headliner to install nuts and washers?" Do not pull the headliner. I forget exactly what they are called but from new they use captured nuts that install from the top side. You should be able to find them at a good hardware store. Bring a sample of the screws with you so you get the right type.
Personally I never liked the look of the roof racks--makes the car look too tall. I use a removable type. If you do a lot of highway driving without a load on top keep in mind the rack will cost gas mileage and result in wind noise. -- Dave

This is what Volvo used to fasten the rack to the roof.
known as Well Nuts. There is just the steel skin(the ext roof) as an attachment -- the rack does not attach to any of the internal ribs.

https://www.imperialsupplies.com/item/0380250?service=Search%20Redirect.

That said.........To Build,

Don't do it.

I've got a wagon that has the roof rack. I've had to take care of Rust around some of the attachment pts.
I've owned a wagon that had no roof rack. I prefer w/o the rack.

Cleaning an waxing the roof is a pain with the rack. leaves, an all sorts of other crap collect under the chrome bands. I never use the rack to carry anything . I have a set of 2x4s with Qwik n Easy gutter clamps, racking up to 4 kayaks...75 to 80 mph.

Add

110lbs. Half of the amount from gutter load bars.

From the 1992 owner's manual:

Roof rack

Permanent and removable roof racks are available from Volvo Accessories.

Observe the following points when in use.
Avoid point loads. Distribute the load evenly.
Place the heavy cargo at bottom of load.
Observe that center of gravity and handling are influenced by the load weight.
Increasing load size increases wind resistance.
Anchor the cargo correctly with a cord.
Drive carefully. Avoid rapid starts, heavy cornering and heavy braking.
Permanent roof rack load limit: 110 lbs (50 kg).
Load bar load limit: 220 lbs (100 kg)
Max. roof load is 220 lbs (100 kg); use a roof rack with a sufficient load rating.
--
Keeping it running is better than buying new