This, the second time. The first was 10 years ago. I still had the wooden board I had screwed together from plywood from 10 years ago stashed away, and I used that, along with the excellent instructions in the FAQ.

The last time I did this I only had a screwdriver and wrenches to undo the hose clamps. This time, at the specific recommendation of the FAQ, I invested in a flexible shaft screwdriver which also takes quarter inch drive sockets. This was a godsend! It made getting the hose clamps off much easier.

Also, this time around I folded a carpet on the top of the board for padding for me, as the last time around I receive several bruises just from lying there.

Both of these improvements helped considerably.

I considered using the Motorcraft heater valve, which probably would've worked fine, but finally I just popped for the genuine Volvo valve along with the rubber elbow for the vacuum line.

The only other thing I would add to the FAQ for this job would be the use of a headlamp. I had one of those plug-in shop lights which seem to give out more heat than light, and I resorted to using a hand flashlight, which was less than desirable.

The hardest part is getting the old hoses off. I cut them as gently as possible off the heater core ports, again per the FAQ, which was tedious, and tried to yank them off of the engine ports, which seemed almost impossible, but finally they came.

Two pieces of serendipity with this job:

I found out that the mechanic had left an electrical connection to the air conditioner unclipped, which explained why the air conditioner hadn't worked. I reconnected it, which solved that problem.

Also, I found that on my board, armed with my newly beloved flexible shaft screwdriver, I could easily see and access the crank position sensor. But that for another day.

Anyway, thank you all for all of the tips and advice.

I asked my five-year-old son "When you are 15, you can do the heater hoses for me, right?"

He only smiled back at me, which I assume means yes….

Did you take the intake manifold and oil trap separator off first?

What is the wooden block that you referenced?

Dear 1908242DLa,

Hope you're well. There's no need to remove either the intake manifold or the oil trap.

To access the hose nipple on the side of the head, I put an 18"-wide board (1.5" thick) from fender to fender. The board's underside has foam tape to protect the paint. This sturdy board allows me to lay atop the engine, and so to look down at the hose clamp, that secures the heater hose to the intake manifold's nipple.

From this vantage point, I can pretty easily free the hose, that attaches to the coolant pipe, that runs alongside the passenger side of the engine, and then turns towards the driver's side of the car.

Rather than trying to pull the hose free, I slice the hose lengthwise - for a distance of two inches (50mm) from its end. I repeatedly make shallow cuts, slowly and careflly, so I don't score the steel nipple. I stop cutting when I can use the tip of a screwdriver to spread the rubber to the point that it parts. I can then easily remove the hose.

This method takes time, but avoids damaging these hose connection points. Fighting the urge to apply too much pressure to the knife is is especially important when freeing the hoses, that connect to the heater core. The heater core's nipples are made of copper, and so are easily damaged.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

Having just replaced a heater hose, I did think about your padded board from fender to fender. I also briefly thought of suspending myself upside down from a roof truss with a rope tied around my ankles. In the end, I just stood on a solid box and leaned way over the fender.

For the added information of others reading this thread, parts needed to be removed for proper access to the heater hoses include the entire flame trap assembly (on top of the oil box) and the main air intake hose. Items to disconnect and tuck out of the way include #3 injector connectors, IAC & TPS rear connectors (idle air control and throttle position sensor) and the brake booster hose. I didn't have to do the heater outlet hose to the passenger side, but I imagine removing the entire heat shield would seem in order there. Slitting old hoses to peel them off nipples is indeed often easier than trying to get tools in to wrestle with them.
--
Dave -still with 940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now

When you (or your son) do the heater hoses in 2029 don't try to just pull the hoses off the outlets. Use pliers to give them a twist first to break the bond. -- Dave