My mechanical fuel pump started leaking. Looked on eBay and most pumps are listed for the 1800 but not many for 544 and 122.

Shouldn't all 1.8 L and maybe 2.0 be the same.

I looked at Vintage Auto Parts list and they offer
1336184 Fuel pump B18/20 later style ( no glass bowl ) each 64.00.

The pump listed below is the best price on eBay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mechanical-Fuel-Pump-MTC-VM897-fits-69-74-Volvo-142-2-0L-L4/132665045869?fits=Model%3A1800%7CMake%3AVolvo&epid=6023758090&hash=item1ee373f36d:g:RCIAAOSwI3FblTM8


Comments please.

Is it leaking oil or leaking fuel?

All B18, B20 and B30 mechanical fuel pumps are interchagneable.

The ebay fuel pump is all that is currently available new, except for the occasional new old stock fuel pumps.

Unfortunately, those new fuel pumps have several problems. 1st the check valves are crap and often putting out over 5 psi and therefore need a fuel pressure regulator. 2nd, quite often the screws holding the top onto the base become loose and require re tightening and lastly, it's not unusual for the outlet hose barb to fall off as they are only Super Glued in and not properly peened. Recently, 1 of my customers told me the inlet hose barb fell out on him from 1 of these crappy fuel pumps.

Can you supply a picture of your fuel pump?
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

The engine has been sitting for about 3 months while I did paint and body work and rewiring partially, and I just cranked for the first time yesterday.
It is leaking fuel, perhaps there is a weep hole near the bottom so it doesn't leak into the engine.
A long shot is the rubber fuel lines are hard as a rock and even though the clamps are tight maybe the outlet connection is dribbling. I will buy new rubber hose today to see if it is that simple.

My pump is stamped steel construction, no screws and not cast like the one I mentioned on eBay.

I installed a cheap electric fuel pump for now. I just put it inline next to the old fuel pump, and used a tie wrap to secure it to the breather tube temporarily.

My experience with electric fuel pumps is they work better/ last longer when located near the gas tank. However my fuel line from the tank is original and in good condition, so I rather not cut a section out near the tank.

P.S. My engine has a breather tube instead of a PCV valve. I wonder if it is a 1963 engine ?

It sounds like you have what I refer to as the last good mechanical fuel pump that was made, at least so far, a "real" Pierburg with a crimped on top.

If your fuel pump is leaking fuel, then it's needs to be replaced. I don't know anyone who has tried to rebuild 1 of those, but I wouldn't even try.

You are correct, most electric fuel pumps work best when located near the tank.

If you are going to rely on the electric fuel pump, you should wire it so it won't run unless the engine is running and this is for safety. You don't want the pump to continue running in an accident where the pump might be feeding a fire or dumping fuel in the environment.

In last 5 years I've seen at least 2 different mechanical fuel pumps boxed in "Pierburg" boxes, but not with the original Pierburg part number. I'm pretty sure the pumps are not made by Pierburg, but are reboxed in a counterfeit boxes.


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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Mine is a Pierburg with a crimped on top.

Simplest way for the electric fuel pump to not run unless the engine is running is to use a SPDT relay grounded through the oil pressure switch, use N.C contact for the fuel pump and when oil pressure is normal the fuel pump can run. I guess you would need an override pushbutton to prime the carb after the fuel bowl becomes dry.

I really prefer a mechanical pump though. I may give one of the eBay pumps a try,I could always Loctite the fuel pump cover bolts.

That's 1 way of wiring it, but I prefer to make the D+ pole on the charging system trigger the fuel pump relay.

I have seen oil pressure switches fail where the switch never went to ground with no oil pressure and that would keep the fuel pump running if the key is still on.

Also, if the wire happens to get disconnect from the switch or the wire breaks, both of which I've seen happen under normal circumstances, the fuel pump would also still run unless it manages to touch a ground source. If the D+ wire breaks, the fuel pump won't run.

And it's a good idea to have an override button for either set up.

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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502

I have a GM 10SI alternator (3 wire).

Do you have a wire connected to the dash warning light on the dash from that alternator?
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Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Yes.
One side of the light is +12v from Accessory fuse other goes to alternator plug-in.
For the light I use an LED with a 150 ohm 2 watt resistor in parallel.

When charging, I guess the alternator is a sink to ground. I guess you could power a relay in parallel to the alternator light and N.O. contact to power the electric fuel pump.

Still need a P.B. for priming though.

My fuel pump that failed is all steel (no glass bowl) and has a spacer,