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92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick

hi sages- hot summer here in se fla, but lately getting cooler about 10 degrees F which makes a big difference here. anyway put 245 back on the road . been running Saturn with ac since march when it got hot again. don't need the ac now. 245 runs well . very nostalgic hearing from street punks and hand sign messagers displeased with my slow launches from the red light in first. one even called the classic a mfuggin junker. oh well. heres the issue- abs red light stays on from start. no problem or noise in brake system . plenty of pedal and stopping power. know there is a sensor and a small tube for the abs to the back of the wheel. dealer service mgr told me oh that's a bad abs box under the hood, only a $1k to replace. asked a friend who is a savvy backyard mechanic- told me its probably brake dust on the sensor- blow it off with compressed air .told me if hes right I owe him a shaeffer or two . never worked on one of these abs malfunctions , but do know a lot about shyster tricks. would be very appreciative of your sage advice. you bad boys are right most of the time. thanks tons oldduke








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    Odo

    Hey Old Duke,

    You don’t really have 439k on your 240, do you?
    Typo?? ....:)

    Regards,
    J
    --
    Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....








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      Odo

      hi jw- sorry mea culpa. did make a typo actual miles on my 92 245 is 249k. too bad my draft board didn't make a similar mistake with my lottery # for nam . 249 or 365 would have been a much better # in 69 . 149 was almost curtains. see you in the next war. actually from what ive read here, 439k would seem possible.thanks tons oldduke








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        Odo

        Yes, 439k and even more is certainly possible. Sometime ago I was reading on the web that of the 10 highest mileage Volvo’s there were a few 240’s with close to a million miles. But nothing close to Irv Gordon’s Volvo P1800 with over 3 million miles!!

        --
        Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....








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    92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick

    Here is someone else with a 1992 ABS problem:

    https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1649678/220/240/260/280/abs_light_occasionally_now_permanently.html
    --
    Keeping it running is better than buying new








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    92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick

    Rather than taking a wild guess, why not retrieve the codes for the ABS?
    --
    Keeping it running is better than buying new








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      92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick

      hi Klaus- will try that if I can figure out how to use the ob1 tester in the engine compartment. think my Bentley book has that procedure. not sure how reliable that is though. what say you? what do you think of the brake dust theory? thanks tons oldduke








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        92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick

        Uncle Old Duke and Klaus,

        NO OBD on 240 ABS.

        It's multimeter time!

        Your speedo works Old Duke?

        Any fault codes in the OBD sockets 2 (fuel) and 6 (ignition).

        Something about a 3-1-1 in socket 6 or 2? I forget now.

        Auf to work.

        --
        Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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          92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick

          hi kit g- always a pleasure to confer with you. have to check but I think this 92 245 has the older system called the obd or obd1 where you would touch the wire from one part of the box and touch it to another terminal and you would get a code in beeps. never did it but read about it in old journal. don't have a lot of faith in that system though. suspect its designed to give the dealer a big payday. I know i know i have a bad attitude. do we know whether fault in the abs system registers on the fault code box? any thoughts on the brake dust diagnosis? thanks tons oldduke








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            92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick 200 1992

            Hiya Uncle Old Duke,

            Sorry for my tardy reply.

            Is the ABS light on at time of start or as you begin moving the 245?

            With ABS light on, you do not have operating ABS.

            I'll guess you have your answers here. Though you indicated ABS and CHECK ENGINE (oxygen sensor fault code[s]) illuminated on your instrument cluster in prior posts.

            You have already performed OBD-1 check of socket 2 (fuel injection) and 6 (ignition). ABS-unrelated though.

            You can remove, clean, and replace the two ABS sensors at each wheel. The task is made easy or difficult by how much crud is between the front wheel ABS sensor barrel in spite of the o-ring in grooves at the sensor barrel. The o-rings by now, and I guess two or three of them, are probably a little swollen and do not seat tightly in the grooves, making removal and reinstall after cleaning sometimes difficult.

            You use a Torx or (?) Allen wrench key on the single machine screw head that secures the front wheel sensor to the hub. Twist, spray some kind of non-persistent lube or maybe even brake parts cleaner (chlorinated or non-chlorinated - whatever is less caustic to the plastic and o-ring bits). Also, with same brake parts cleaner, spray the sensor hole clean. Wipe down the sensors with some of the cleaner and havy shop paper towel or some such. Some of that brake parts cleaner can help with reinstall as a residue-free lube. Twist in. A good hand will force the o-ring back into the grove prior to slipping into the bore.

            The Volvo factory green manual for 240 ABS lists what causes the ABS Control Unit to illuminate.

            Yet the ABS Controller, usually, is concerned with continuity of the two front connected devices, connection to ground, and power. I believe there is a ABS Controller check of connection of the ABS modulator or pump.

            You have the two connectors along the inner fender between the ABS wire harness to the controller. In a prior thread on your ABS light, you use a conductive metallic-particle paste to prevent future corrosion. I would have used a dielectric grease like DeoxIT-D or SuperLube brand silicon grease (my preference for the NLGI 2 version).

            You also have the ABS system wire harness connector at the ABS Control unit. Corrosion can form here. More so is you have water intruding into the front area of the passenger compartment, passenger side. ABS Control unit is under the passenger seat. Or the driver seat? I'm unsure now. An inspect may reveal, as Art posted images of some time ago, a rusted ABS Control unit housing. My hope, after you disconnect the battery, is a quick disconnect / reconnect of the connector housing. Some dielectric grease like DeoxIT-D or SuperLube brand silicon grease at the connector and pin side helps with low volt DC.

            Do not use conductive grease with metallic particles in any connector. Or on the fuse panel, or the tail lights ....

            The other part of the ABS is the Transient Surge Protector, a relay-10 amp fuse assembly. The ATC fuse can fail, or have corrosion, or if passenger compartment moisture intrusion, form rust on the housing and, like the moisture encountering ABS Controller, rust.

            The ABS Controller connects directly to the differential mounted speedo sensor as does your instrument cluster. If your speedo works, the issue may connection at the ABS Controller. It's been 10 years since I dug around with dash and seat removed in my great 2008 1992 Volvo 240 GL sedan windshield rust repair and replace. Never did I screw up a windshield install before. Even had the two Volvo butyl tape rolls. So I dunno where what is.

            Here is a partial diagram. Shows nothing under the seats. Or the seats. From the green manual.

            Also, what color is the brake fluid?

            196 maybe the ABS Controller, mounted on the bulkhead, under the dash, on 1993?
            200 is the relay / 10 AMP ATC fuse transient surge protector?

            --
            Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.








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            92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick

            You could try all of the OBD ports and see if you get any fault codes. The A-1 is normally the transmission, the A-2 is engine, and A-3 should be the ABS. At least that is for the 940, same year. You insert the probe in one of the holes, and with the key in position II, press the little black button in the box for about 1 second - the red light will glow when you do this. The system then responds with a blink of the red light. Count the flashes, 1 through 9. There will be a slight pause between each number with each code being 3 numbers in total. A result of 1-1-1 indicates no codes present.



            No, the OBD is not for dealer rip off. It helps them to narrow the search for the problem.

            As for cleaning the sensor rings, yes, but do NOT use compressed air!! That is super fine particles and can lodge in the lungs. I would use a spray bottle and wash the sensor rings, or use a shop vac. It can get crusty.

            Also check the sensors themselves, make sure they are pointing toward the ring and the wiring is not compromised.

            An ABS malfunction will not have any affect on your breaking ability, it is only there to prevent brake lock up.
            --
            Keeping it running is better than buying new








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              OBD-1 and the old blow gun 200 1992

              OBD in either the 1 or 2 version is a government requirement meant to deal with emissions. CEL is for the driver and OBD for the technician. The functions were extended to other systems differently by various auto manufacturers as computerized electronics took over automotive design.

              The 240 never got anything other than ignition and fuel OBD, unlike the highly advanced 9-series. No ABS, SRS, or transmission diags. Just fuel and spark. And only enough to satisfy the gummint. Sometimes the codes can help an owner, but many are just vague as far as what part needs attention.

              In my experience, the light comes on if the sensor at the rear axle differential malfunctions. At the same time, the speedometer will quit if that's it. Otherwise, the commonly reported issue is one of the sensors at the front wheels or their tone rings. Rust is the enemy here.

              You make a good point about using compressed air for this or any cleaning in general. People have been hurt by high pressure air (and water for that matter) if used casually or without care. It used to be we'd blow out the brake dust before routine brake or bearing work, and that was when friction materials included asbestos. Tiny slivers of metal can embed in the skin and come back to haunt you when you need an MRI.




              --
              Art Benstein near Baltimore

              In a world without walls or fences who needs windows or gates.








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                OBD-1 and the old blow gun 200 1992

                hi arty b- your info seems to narrow the cause down to a dusty connection of the abs sensor at the wheel. answer seems to be the blow gun trick at the sensor. sad seems another phat 4 figure$$ payday for the dealer shop is circling the bowl. do you feel as bad as I do about it? maybe its just my bad attitude. thanks tons oldduke








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            92 245 wagon. 439k. what about the abs dash light trick

            I believe Kitty is correct. No fault detection codes for ABS in your 240’s OBD1 system. Your car does in fact have OBD1 but a very basic version. So, I guess what you have is a red ABS fault light on your dash, correct?

            Try cleaning the ABS sensors of rust, grime etc. Many old posts here on that topic. That often cures the problem.
            --
            Will I buy another Volvo??? We'll see....







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