For the 240s, I checked the FAQs, but can't find the recommended interval (eg every 60k miles) to change the water pump and timing belt. What do you recommend for each, absent any symptoms? Thanks!

Hi Mike,

Okay. Thank you.

May want to make mention in your brickboard account profile or .sig (signature) next time you edit your profile.

Could you please list configuration? Both manual or 1988 auto or ???

I can guess K-Jet / Electronic Ignition on the 1980 and LH-Jet 2.2 / Chrysler MPG ignition on the 1988? (I'm not too well practiced with engine control after K-Jet and before 1989 < LH-Jet 2.4 / 3.1 EZK116 ignition.)

Hope that helps.

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Thanks. I updated my profile; plese let me know whether it shows up, because I can't tell if it saved the changes.

1988 Volvo 240 DL LH 2.2, automatic (AW-71?), > 284k miles, just acquired.

1980 Volvo DL (242) CIS, M45 manual transmission, > 134k miles, non-operational/long term storage (but should be fully operational)

Odometers don't work on either

Wile others have already gone over the subject of what interval to use with timing belts (if original square tooth - up to 1992--50k miles or round tooth - 1993 and later 100k) I don't think anyone suggested removing the top screws of the cover and tilting the cover back so you can see the belt. If there's any surface cracks or "checking" it's time to change the belt no matter what the mileage.
As others have indicated the water pump change can take place when needed - that is--any play in the water pump shaft - no resistance from the WP inner seal to spinning the shaft - any weeping from the "weep hole".
When I change a WP I loosely install all the mounting bolts except the bottom one. I use a shaft (straight rod, philips screwdriver, etc) placed into the bottom hole to lever up the WP and squeeze the upper seal against the cylinder head and proceed to tighten all the upper bolts. -- Dave

I'll guess you have a 1980, and not a 1908, 242, as your username indicates.

Always choose the model and year when posting.

You do have Bentley, print or PDF Volvo OEM green (cover page) factory manuals, Or, for the joys of occasional inaccuracy, the Haynes 240 service manuals.

Your 1980 (1908) Volvo owner manual would make mention of service schedule during warranty period for tming belt. Yet some subtle action to reset newly installed timing belt tension after 100, 500, 1000 miles and at the first few oil changes is not included in any of these service manual publications. Or the FAQ.

Wow, the FAQ is really out of date. 01JAN2014 last up rev? Needs some content updates and additions. Someone or a consortium should admin the 700-900 FAQ. The brickboard is the original version distributed to other Volvo sites. I'll advocate a 240 / 260 stand alone FAQ as 200 series is rather different than 700-900.

Cloud Front, the service hosting brickboard.com, is really slow. Whether or not JavaScript is enabled in the browser (no JavaScript = no ads).

Are you on any of the three large RWD Volvo goups on face book? I answered these questions for users in the last week or so.

Anyhoo, Timing Belt:
Brand: ContiTech (Continental) is OEM. ContiTech sells a kit that includes, so far as I know, the OEM grade INA brand tensioner.

Replacement interval:
- Up to 1992 sqaure tooth belt 50k.
- 1993+ round tooth belt every 100k

Tensioner:
- INA brand timing belt tensioner is OEM quality or is OEM for all over head cam redblock engines. I'm unsure the B234 quattrovalve engine.

New Timing Belt:

FAQ page entries-

Timing belt replacement interval as a table:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm#TimingBeltChart

Does not indicate timing belt tensioner replacement interval save for:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm#Timing_Belt_Seals_Tensioner_PM

Under the unlinked (not bookmarked) heading Timing Belt, Seals, Tensioner, Balancer Preventive Maintenance in B23/B230 Series .....

"Additionally, at 135,000 or more miles, consider replacing the timing belt tensioner since its bearing will not last much longer."

Timing Belt Tensioner and Belt Adjustment After Installation. Replace the Tensioner?

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm#CamBeltAdjustmentAfterInstallation

"[Don Foster] A new tensioner every 150k is the prevailing wisdom as I understand it."

In the descriptive files ...

Volvo B230F Timing Belt Alignment

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/B230FTimingBeltAlignment.htm

Images show round tooth cogs or gears. Same tooth count for > 1992 square & 1993 < round tooth.

- The timing belt stretches after install. Resent tension (loosen / tighten tensioner retaining nut under timing belt cover rubber grommet maybe 50 - 100 miles, 500 miles, and at the first few oil changes. I reset at each oil change. A slack timing belt will either lose alignment, skipping a timing belt gear cog, or will brake if high miles.


Anyhoo, Wasser Pumpen:

Uncle Art Benstein's info on aftermarket pumps-

http://cleanflametrap.com/wasserpumpen.html

I had a Volvo OEM blue box made in UK leak a year after install through the bottom weep hole. I went Hepu. Maybe Hepu has a polished surface where it counts at seal contact now? The hepu pumps I installed do not appear as they do in Art's images in his article.


More info on wasserpumpen brand at Turbobricks with Art's comments:

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=289693

And another. Evolving nature of the auto parts market.
http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269746&styleid=1

FAQ cooling page entry -

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm#Water_Pump

Water Pump on B230 Engine: Check out the file for detailed instructions and pictures from Cameron Price regarding a B230 water pump

Here is the file, a link in the Descriptive Files menu

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/WaterPumpChange.htm

6 or newer, 5 nuts and bolts to secure to the block.

Use Volvo gasket and seals. Aftermarket, usually made in India garbage, sucks.

Use synthetic silicon grease. No RTV.

The install order is sort of goofy here.

You use the oblong holes first to loosely attach the pump to the block and heater return line. Maybe a 1/2 turn before the nut begins to seat, and than the step:

Using a 12-18" pry bar or screw driver, lever against the bottom-most portion of the pump and the crankshaft pulley or power steering pump and lift the pump upward. You need to get compression on that flanged o-ring. You don't have to use terribly much force, but it should be very snug.

I'd like to rewrite the procedure so it is concise for both the six and newer five bolt water pump. Procedure causality is incorrect.

Anyhoo, don't do this:


(Square tooth t-belt on round tooth t-belt cog gears on B230. A ha-ha.)

Or this. My work. Rushed and cheap gasket / seals made in India. Used SuperLube NLGI 2 grease. If you do not installed correctly and lever up the pump to compress the top seal to the cylinder head underside. Used Volvo gasket / seals and the same grease. All is aces.

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How 'bout them rear wheel bearings? They need inspection, cleansing, and new grease pack at maybe 50-100k miles. Everyone ignores the the rear wheel bearings.


Questions?

Hope that halps.
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Use a seal press. One press for the cam seals and one press for the front crank seals.

You may want to replace the front timing plate, that 'carries' the intermediate cam seal and crank shaft seal. Use Volvo gasket. You can use the orange seals as came on your 1908 242 DL. Of use the newer viton material seals that are thinner.

Also, to remove the crank pulley, you should use the counter hold method on the crank pulley and both camshaft pulley. Your 1980 has the shimmed all metal crank pulley. So, one counter hold to rent or buy for the crank pulley and the two camshaft timing gear cogs.

Find a Vovlo Penta (marine) store or shop. They may rent the tool to you.
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Also, what brands of timing belts are good?

I'm havng trouble finding on Amazon a name-brand timing belt kit that comes with front oil seals. Any ideas?

You didn't give the year. I use Contitech belt. Most here usually do waterpump when it starts showing signs, ie weep hole dripage, bearing sounds, etc. The 2.3 is a non-interference motor. So if you do break the belt, only harm is the tow home.
Look at
rockauto
fcpeuro
ipd
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Contitech belts.
Timing belt intervals vary. Later models are usually 50k. Water pump as needed.
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