Hi,

I like WAHLER in a 92 degree centigrade value. They come boxed and are made of brass and copper of which both are made of so the materials work the same as one. They are a wee bit more expensive and were OEM from Volvo in 249's. They have been bought by Borg Warner and still made in Germany.
All three makes seem to come listed for our cars through parts houses in more popular 87 or 89 centigrade. I think this is because their warehouses want to keep less of an inventory of different brands so it forces you to select an inferior product that makes them more profit with less shelf time investment.
I have to hunt for the 92 degree and the right price. I usually find them around $15. Some will scam you into twice that if they have to order it. I don't bite as I now see what's happening and get three for stocking up for my fleet of six.

The last one I bought still came with a manufacturing date stamped on them. I like that!
Many of my thermostats get replaced when I think it's about time. That's around 15 years. I had one fail in the open position after 17 years so I backed up a couple years and use it as my scary line now!
The crown brace breaks its spot weld. If a thermostat fails I love it to be in the open positions.

Caloric and Stant are made of different Unknown metal materials and can have more of a sticking issue. IMHO.

Stants have always failed shut, in my '74 Ford pickup causing overheating. I have gone through three of those at about five years each along with two replacement upper tanks on the radiators.
If I ever put it back on the road I'm not using a Stant.
I hope someone else makes one now!

Both Stant and Caloric brands are sold in department store parts house hanging on a peg for people to handle or drop on the floor.
In many cases I have seen this happen with unattended adults and kids!
In those many cases, including myself having one sliding off a plastic jug, I have witness those being dropped or knocked off the peg and laying in stuff or put back on a peg at any other place.
I believe if one realizes that these should be considered precision stampings and carefully adjusted wax expanding instruments they would pick another one without dents on the package to purchased.

I have had three Calorics fail, one closed shut and the exhaust pipe was red hot. The other two got lazy and would not not fully close down during shut downs. So, therefore running the engine colder and the gauge needle lower and closer to 7:30 or maybe 8:00.
The LH's will run the motor richer than necessary and seldom if ever shoot a code close for it. You will hardly know with in town mileage but on the open road it's a mile or two more per gallon difference depending on 87/ 89 to the 92 and the oil smells fresher with less gasoline/oil fragrance.

When Volvo put in the temperature faker they made it read straight across at nine o clock for a normal temperature. From there it only moved in stages or steps of which many do not like a sudden jump so we remove the board.

In the early red block year of my 1978 that has Lambda emissions it came with a 92 degree and ran horizontal on the gauge. It has always read there within a needle width for all its years.
On my other newer cars I had to experiment with different temperatures due to not being able to get WAHLERS all the time or being sold a bill of goods due to the explanation above.
I have since read that the people into building today's emissions vehicles that they want the combustion chamber to run no less than around 200 degrees Fahrenheit as quickly as possible. 92 degrees centigrade puts you right there. 197 degrees or Horizontal on the normal temperature gauge!

So there you have my nickels worth and since they don't make money out of brass or even copper anymore, that's the jest of that!
Ps: the last ones I got were from FCP GROTON, I think, on sale. 6 months or better ago.

Phil