HI,

I may not be much help to you on this one because I have not dug into either of my three ('91-'93) cars to see if there is a difference.
I have been living under a precept that Volvo made the change to the bigger evaporators by the 1991 model year.
The earlier Volvo systems were undersized from the respect of the American cars capacities. Americans go big and bold on most everything.
Volvo knew if the switch to R134a that it would cost up to a 10 percent drop in efficiency. This would crimp the ability to sell their cars. The word was already affecting the sales mid to late eighties sales that was a large jump for Volvo.

The mandate in the USA to switch over to R-134a was approaching. For cars it was wavering to be set for 1996 or sooner. The big kicker was the removal of R12 manufacturing. This cut line was for 1992 globally.
I do not the exact year when Volvo went to the COT system, used in GM cars but the influence was around. It may have been earlier the 1991 with the change to the LH 2.4 driven by the big word EMISSIONS.

1991 was the year I stocked up with 60 lbs. of R12 @ about a $1.50 a pound. I have just opened my second 30 lb. cylinder last year as I have 5 of my 6 cars using R-12. I also topped off my neighbors two vehicles for 15 years until he passed away. I think I have enough until I do!

The R-134a is now indangered but the R-1234YF has its on issues in Europe and those people are not liking our EPA fir approving it! Mercedes says its flammable, in some way or another, but I have not read a lot about it.
The reason I can remember the numbers, is because, I think that the YF stands for "Yell Fire." (:-(

So in looking over the list of those things you change out, I noticed no mention of the expansion device or orifice tube.
I figure you may have done the conversion due to a compressor failure or the lack of R-12?
Changing the condenser side was not so much a big deal unless it was contaminated.

The fan was added onto these cars to help with a limited its size issue in overall design of the front end of the car. The console had its issue with the fan too.
Even if the condenser moved to more rows this would necessitate a needed fan anyway.
Questions came up about, how much money to invest in the 240 with the style in other models selling?
Again, I'm just not that familiar but someone on here may have a parts catalog that will tell you more about evaporators used and the orifice tubes offered.

The opening of the orifice probably comes in more that one size and are denoted by color.
Do you know what the color is that is in your car today?

You might be able to move up a step or two. This will allow a tiny more liquid inside to put out the fire in the cabin.
It's an adjustment that can be done provided you watch your low side pressure range and being mindful of flood back into the accumulator when the cabin temperature is satisfied.

The fan in the cabin is your temperature control. The pressure switch decides the rest and that is pretty much it.
This is a cheaper system to install in their cars but it has several drawbacks to the TXV.
ONE it does not know where the liquid is in the tailpipe of the evaporator to the accumulator. It's in the accumulator it stays or is trapped until it boils off.
It is a balanced charge system and is more subject to rise in outside and inside temperatures like domestic refrigerators that I have written about.
There is a built in margin of safety as the systems are shipped around the world.

It should be possible to adjust it some, to the more tropical climate that you may have. This is why there are various colors available.
Since you have change out your own system, you might be up to a skill level, to move in the range of operation.

So I will let you contemplate this option if the evaporators are all the same.,

Good luck and post back what you find out for all of us!

Phil