Volvo RWD 120-130 Forum

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strocker kit 120-130

posted by  voice122 on  Thu Jun 21 04:48 CST 2018
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last visit: Mon Oct 20 00:08 CST 2014
[RELATED]

BTW
I have a B20 in my 122 and saw a 2.5 strocker kit in Sweden

Has anyone gone down this road before and what are the negatives for a road car

Looking forward to your opinions

David








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    strocker kit 120-130

    posted by  JohnH on  Sat Sep 1 20:19 CST 2018
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    last visit: Mon Oct 6 00:29 CST 2014
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    I've had one built recently for my long distance rally 144 (=heavy with all the needed extras) with the good bits coming from Tinus Tuning in Holland. As B20Paul said, you do need to do the complete package. I've just done a 7 day special stage rally in central Australia - nasty dirt, dry sandy river crossings, rocks, you name it. Not much more top end, but the increase in midrange torque made it all worth while.

    We built the engine to 9:1 specifically for another long rally next year but if you put in more compression and a more aggressive cam, it would be spectacular in the lighter 120.

    As for cost, compared with offset grinding a 40+ year old crank, you get a new billet crank and all the associated bits for not a huge amount more. The real expense comes in getting the head done and the engine put together properly, unless you do that yourself.
    --
    JohnH, Sydney, Australia








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      strocker kit 120-130

      uid 37336's pic
      posted by  B20Paul. on  Tue Sep 18 15:56 CST 2018
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      last visit: Mon Oct 20 10:54 CST 2014
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      Hey John!

      What did you get from Tinus? Is it still Ben's buisness?

      What makes up the rest of the motor?

      I've been thinking of grabbing a set of Scat rods & offset grinding a B21crank. I aquired a new factory 2x DCOE COPY, and am hugely impressed with the design and quality. It made me buy a pair of new 48 DCO copies which are hit and miss, but better than the collection of old 45's I have, they were rough when I got them about 30 years ago. I think I'll use them as throttle bodies on a B30.

      The heads I have flatline at 5500rpm on a 2370cc, I'm thinking of going for an inbetween capacity, offset boring towards the inlet and going up to a 45mm valve. My primary donkeys are 186 piston 2130cc, stock rods & crank. I like the idea of saving some drag with the little 45mm Mitsubishi big ends and modern 1mm rings, thinking 90.5mm x 89mm 2290cc would be a great compromise on capacity.







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        strocker kit 120-130

        posted by  JohnH on  Sun Sep 23 15:48 CST 2018
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        last visit: Mon Oct 6 00:29 CST 2014
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        Hi Paul,
        I got pretty much the lot from Ben: billet crank, forged pistons, rings, his A-rods, cam to suit low octane, bearings, valve springs.
        Gary Comerford put it all together and flowed the head. Interestingly he closed down the inlet ports to help with torque. We used it on Outback Trial in August as a test of everything for P2P next year. I'm very happy with it. A good torquey engine.
        I'm running new 45DCOEs with 40mm chokes. I thought 40s might be big for the engine, but the dyno says otherwise. Headers (4-2-1) rather than the cast iron FI manifold to save weight. Unfortunately I broke a pipe on COT - I didn't support it at the bellhousing - and will probably replace it with KG Trimning's big set, which I'm trying to buy through Ben. Currently waiting on a quote.
        Meantime I've got to strip all the underseal off the car because it's got traces of asbestos and Customs have gone pretty all out about that. And getting everything else P2P ready.
        Regards
        John
        --
        JohnH, Sydney, Australia








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    strocker kit 120-130

    uid 37336's pic
    posted by  B20Paul. on  Thu Aug 30 13:59 CST 2018
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    last visit: Mon Oct 20 10:54 CST 2014
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    I think it was SPM, now ACM selling stroker kits. VERY nice stuff, especially the Honda style, fully couterweigthed crank. BUT, it's pointless without a cylinder head, cam, intake and exhaust system to match, PARTICULARILY the head. 1st you have to actually find someone to do you a head.

    The negatives are you need to know what you are doing and you need a bucket of money.

    I will reply to your arp post latermif you still need info. Basically, the only arp product you might need is the head studs if you can't find a decent set of head bolts. Things like the flywheel bolts you can upgrade using Unbrako Allen Head Capscrews and hardened washers from a bolt shop.







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    stroker kit 120-130

    posted by  544-4ever on  Tue Jun 26 05:12 CST 2018
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    last visit: Mon Oct 20 05:50 CST 2014
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    Check out Davebarton.com. Good article on stroking a B23 to a B26. Seems like a B20, the 2.2 build w/SU's is a great way to go and bulletproof--and as the old Volvo Ads said--" Drive it like you hate it" Your machine shop will love you!!

    Best Regards, Ken in FLA







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