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Hi all-
It's been quite a long time since I've had a 240, but I picked up an '82 245 4spd with the fuel injection (I believe it's referred to as a b21F-MPG). It's in ridiculous rust-free shape for a Minnesota car. I'm tracking down a Haynes and Bentley manual on Craigslist, but in the meantime, I thought I'd post a couple questions- I'm hoping the link to a couple photos works, but if not it's: https://imgur.com/a/xaREI -
1. High idle- I have a pretty high idle that drops when I go into gear and start driving, and I'm assuming it has something to do with the loose cable/broken adjuster (why is this part made out of nylon/plastic??) on this pulley mount- can anyone tell me what this part is/what else I'm missing in this picture I took in the dark? I'm also assuming the blank hole on the plate is where a cable to an automatic tranny would go? Or is there a part missing?
2. Rust- (this question is directed to my northern climate bricks) I'm sure this comes up a lot, but I'm in the salty tundra of Minnesota and this thing is pretty much rust free- I'm assuming no one here recommends driving it in the winter, but am I going to be okay with it in my driveway with a breathable cover or should I find a garage? / Does anyone recommend undercoating/wax spray?
Thanks!
Zac
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Thanks for the replies all-
I'm going to do a mix of using a breathable cover and letting dry out when possible. When I have the funds, I'm going to look into a non-toxic underbody spray... even having to remove a layer of grease before working on the car is easier than dealing with ridiculously rusty bolts etc.
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I also have a 1982 which I purchased in 1997 with 35k miles mostly summer driving. I use it all the time and our winters are salty in Montreal area.
It depends if you want to keep that nice Volvo from deteriorating due to corrosion. Do not forget that pre-1988 240 were not galvanized.
Now my 1982 has 290k miles and I manage to keep it from corroding as much as possible. That means spraying all hidden sheet metal, under the car, inside doors, inside frame, inside trunk between lights, fenders, trunk lid hidden borders and same for hood. Even inside front winshield pillars. Many holes to drill and snap in plastic plugs.
I used to have this done at a mechanic shop equipped with spray gun dedicated for this work. This is popular in our area.
There are 2 main methods of undercoating. One use some liquid parafin based formula I beleive. The other method uses a type of soft grease, parafin based probably, it is sprayed with 100 to 125 psi air pressure. It produces an airborne mist that not good to breathe, and deposits everywhere.
The soft grease type is sold here in every autoparts store in cans of one gallon size. I now apply this myself every year by end of October since I made my own spray gun. It has a 18 inch piece of hose, a 1/4 inch o.d. x 10 ss tubing with 1 inch bent 90° for easier inside spraying.
Car paint must be waxed before winter of coarse. It is not fun to do repairs under the car I can tell you. Nothing is free in this world.
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Thu Jan 25 18:03 CST 2018 [ RELATED]
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when choosing a method for rustproofing, the one Plus for the Fluid Film method -- actually 2.
it's lanolin based ... from sheep and is non-toxic. the second is that it can with water/soap be pressure washed off the surface, unlike oil/petro based coating methods. This means that IF the Rust get's the best of you, other rust inhibiting/repair solutions can be applied without having a petro-saturated rusty base, which would require surgical removal, with Rust repair solutions such as POR-15 or similar which bond to rusty metal.
PS: those steel wheels will look just fine painted with Rustoleum - aluminium. a 1/2 pint and a brush will leave plenty to spare for 1 or 2 more applications.
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Wed Jan 24 13:52 CST 2018 [ RELATED]
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Fluid Film for coating the car underside and sprayin rocker panels.
https://www.fluid-film.com/automotive-applications/
there are YouTubes showing application. General How to's not specific to Volvo 240s
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
VolvoWiring Diagrams Website has some green books.
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=
Esp this Very Good pdf for earlier models of the 240 series.
Volvo Problem Solver Advanced Edition put together by Volvo mechanics--Out of Print, but IPD once sold it for $65
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/Trouble%20Shooting%20Guides/Volvo%20Problem%20Solver%20Advanced%20Edition-1.pdf
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Hi Zac,
The photo link worked for me, and I think that you've got an amazing find. I think that you are 100% correct to be concerned about protecting this 35 year old beauty from the rust, its the only thing on these old beasts that is not relatively easy/inexpensive to fix.
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I used to live in the UK -- warm and steamy winters compared to MN, but the roads are heavily salted. The undersides of my 144 and 244 were coated with Waxoyl, and I had Lokari arch liners to protect the very vulnerable rear wheel arches. You can still buy them from Europe -- https://www.lokari.de/epages/62716287.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62716287/Products/IKF-109-L-R
Both products worked well, but the underside has to be steam-cleaned for Waxoyl application.
I came to my senses and moved to Australia, where I have no need for such things.
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Car covers are great for 2 things -- 1) keeping dust/debris off the car and 2) keeping sun off the car. I would NEVER use one on a car that's going to be subjected to rain or snow. Moisture will get through - and now you have moisture trapped between the cover and the paint -- add a bit of sun to that and you can get some really interesting damage to the paint. If it must sit outside, but some sun shields up inside the windows to protect those bits from UV, but leave it uncovered.
Ideal -- ALWAYS a garage. Like our mate that moved to Aussieland, I couldn't live anywhere where I had to drive a car on regularly salty/slushy/wintery roads.
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Hi,
I agree with you on the use of a car cover, whole heartedly.
You said it does “interesting things to the paint,” if the cover gets wet and then sunshine on it.
I think you are saying the paint or is it the car wax that gets treated to a “ steam sauna”?
I can only imagine it will “mottle” the surfaces. Unless you have seen worse?
I”m sure many of us have seen what happens to a highway that is drying out or off from the rays of the sun. Boiling water droplets are laying on the surface first.
I’m in the process of giving Cover King’s products a try. I saw them at Costco for like $28 and they “tout” a breathable protective fabric. I have two of the green box color size and they fit very nicely on the 240 models. Not exactly custom but I would not complain for the price! Since the price was too tempting, I hoarded!
When I first got my 1992, in the summer of 2016, I kept one stashed in the trunk, still in the box!
That October it went to Las Vegas for a Navy ship reunion.
I thought I wanted to keep the hot desert sun off the car but ended up picking up my shipmates at the airport and doing side trips around Las Vegas!
FYI .... Las Vegas Cabbies stick it to you, so you will lose less of it sticking money into those slots!
I figured I saved my buddies $120 in fares.
Later, an unplanned trip to Florida came up due to a hurricane going up the coast. This canceled my airline flight from Vegas to Orlando. I ended up taking the newly acquired car, a refurbished Wagonmeister’s car, to the Orlando area to catch a cruise ship to Jamaica, for my 42 year wedding anniversary.
While on the cruise I covered the car. When I got back the cover was still on it and felt dry. So I laid it out flat in the trunk, as you don’t get those things back in the box!
I got back to California coast side and later use it on my Marroon 1984 for a few days.
Later, when I took the cover off, I had a nice white dusting of east coast SALT over the entire car!
I have shaken the cover and left it laying out, in what little rain we get in California, a few times.
It is a lot better but I still get traces or small streaks of fine white powder.
I wonder how does cosmic dust gets out of the fabric or does it?
Does anybody have answer to cleaning these so called protectors?
I’m still keeping the other in the tiny box until I wear the “salt christened” one out!
Phil
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Used to clean mine by going to the laundromat and washing it in the big machine.
LOTS of experience when I was younger and without garage/carport using car covers in the SE USA. Plenty of rain. Learned the hard way -- lots of weather forecast watching and running to get the cover off if rain was coming. Drying one out (off the car) when wet was a major pain in the ass.
Opinions vary -- but there's no variance in my opinion. Covers - great for dust/debris/sun resistance. Terrible for rain/snow. No substitute for large carport or garage.
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