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Sudden loss of power & shut down while driving hot or cold 200 1988

posted by  Bill N. on  Thu Dec 7 21:47 CST 2017
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last visit: Sat Aug 16 14:09 CST 2014
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Has been demonstrating a sudden loss of power with all dash lights coming on--dead in the water so to speak. Then it restarts and runs until it decides to do it again some times engine is cold but most time engine has been running for 30 to 60 minutes. Very unpredictable!
Has newer in-tank fuel pump but I have been wondering if I need a new main fuel pump. I will check the fuel pump relay for cracks & function tomorrow.

Car has 192K on it. Any Ideas?








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    Sudden loss of power & shut down while driving hot or cold 200 1988

    posted by  someone claiming to be Akwagon on  Thu Dec 7 22:56 CST 2017 [RELATED]

    The 2 times this happened to my 89 245 it turned out to be the fuel pump fuse holder under hood and the other time it was the cps.

    GC







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      Sudden loss of power & shut down while driving hot or cold 200 1988

      uid 46171's pic
      posted by  kittysgreyvolvo on  Fri Dec 8 02:35 CST 2017
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      last visit: Sat Oct 18 15:23 CST 2014
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      No crank position sensor (CPS) on 1988.

      (Unless a fabled late 1988 with a CPS? I dunno.)

      Art's 240 fuse treatise including the 25 AMP ATC fuse holder open to the heavens and all that weather. So, by now you've replaced it with a sealed fuse holder at our Art treats here:
      http://cleanflametrap.com/emfuse.html

      A failing fuel pump *may* sound like angry bees in a closed jar a bit even when primed from the in-tank pump. A proof of the pudding is to tap the fuel pump body if a shut down event happens, yet you've checked other shut down causes.

      Check fuse panel for corrosion where fuse ends secure fuse holders. Emery cloth, small file, small brass or steel brush. A little grease like white lithium at the ends.

      Check the back side of fuse panel where wire harness terminates at terminal blades. Slight wiggle. Some DeoxIT-D spray? Take care, as those spade terminals at the wire ends can be frail at 30 years and 192k miles of service.

      Though it being cold, now ... a fuel pump relay with solder weld cracks on the high current side can cause shutdown as the relay heats up. Do you have a good known replacement fuel pump / relay?

      Wiggle the wires at the terminals on the coil.

      Disconnect / reconnect the power stage wire harness connector as corrosion can form there. The wire harness connector to it point up, so moisture may intrude in spite of the silicon seal. Good to have a known good spare of the power stage and a fuel pump relay (and am AMM / MAF) on the shelf and in the trunk.

      I would also proffer the ignition high tension side. A test of the coil through the rotor cap.

      Yet I'll beta a dead horse and suggest some manner of connector or ground corrosion. Wires secure at the back of the alternator. Charge is good when cold and warm?

      With battery disconnected, disconnect / reconnect the wire harness connector at both the fuel and ignition ECU. Though you would have poor running conditions if you had corrosion at these connectors before shut down.

      Else, it runs okay else wise when it does run? 1982-1988 ain't my strong suit.

      My guess fest ends. Someone will have a solution in far few syllables for you.

      System Runbooks Writin' & Illustratin' Guy.
      --
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