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In the 1992 240 GL, it is a Dayna 1031 housing. Same as on your 1990 240, Yama.
Did this clunk or clunking begin immediately. As in one day, all of the sudden, cluck on starts.
You write in the third post of this thread:
"I did change out the gear oil to redline synthetic when installed. Initially thought u joints but when I looked at it on the lift play seemed to be coming from within the axle."
What do you mean? Play at the differential input flange as you grabbed and turned / gyrated the drive shaft at the rear U-joint? With rear cover removed?
Any oil loss at the pinion seal? Did you perform any work on or replace the pinion bearing? I'd guess you'd not have to for a diff gear swap as with this. Does your differential have a crush sleeve or no?
Though the housing model is sometimes associated with the gear set inside. Open, LSD, locking. A little fasty / loosely on the terms sometimes ...
You removed(?) or bought new(?) a (much-coveted) Eaton G80 locker and swapped in? The G80 from a 940 live axle 1041 diff and into your 1990 240?
Other than a hardly noticeable boompf (more felt than heard) when the (as you sit inside) car left side rear wheel engages, no bump on my 1992 240. It is the 1031 with the LSD anti-spin installed by the dealer or at the factory as the North America US market optioned in 1992. The thing has like 170k miles on it if one believes in the now halted ODO (ODO repair pending). New Amsoil synthetic fluid. Well, new some years ago. The old mineral fluid was quite okay, though. Bitter sulfur metal-y smell, not burnt, yet old and sort of dark.
I put new poly, rather stiff, torque rod bushes that sit inside each end of the torque rod after removing the factory rubber bush shell. Stuffed as much of the synthetic silicon SuperLube NLGI II grease in there. Torque rod failure appears to be the start of rear suspension bush failure and then the rest of the rear bushes go south (so is my observation).
As you swapped in the Eaton G80 locker bits *from* the (940? Jeep? New?) 1041 Dana housing into the 240 1031 pumpkin (pie - ha-ha!) housing, though durable, a faulty install may have demonstrated issues earlier than the 60k miles now passed on it.
Do you drive aggressively? I'll guess not.
Though you can drain the fluid and inspect, if you've not replaced the suspension bushes, the torque rods as Dan mentions, and more so the trailing arm bushes, you can get some manner of clunk under some hard starts and stops.
Though at 200k miles, the rear axle wheel bearings can be suspect. Usually, as the tapered bearing set wears, and play forms, differential fluid can seep out to start or it can leak a lot and rather instantly. Lift the rear when and spin the tires. May help to ensure the rear brake pads are not dragging to much.
Yet you'll also get the rear axle 'crab walking' sensation, also, with failed trailing arm bushes.
It would be hard to have a second person to ride in the rear to listen and decide whether the sound is from the center or either side. Can't hurt.
So, after all this, I'm unsure.
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