Thought it a good time to mention that giving a quick turn on the bleeders when you have a wheel off is a good maintenance point. That caliper could have been original to your antique car, but the new one is no way the same quality.
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89 240 wagon, 94 940, 300K, 94 940, 141K

Well that was a frustrating day, just to bleed the brakes!

Ended up taking the easy way out and went and bought a cheap caliper rather than mess with getting the old bleed screw out. The whole caliper was a lump of rust and its just looked like it would be a pain in the butt.

The day also involved replacing the wheel studs (also a pain in the butt) but that's the subject of another post.

Hi,

A Screw-out or easy-out doesn't work. There's not enough meat to stop it from compressing the bleeder against the threaded hole.

Your bleeder on the rear ATE caliper has a Metric 7- 1 thread. You can drill the core with a 15/64" drill (.234) or better yet letter B (.238).

The depth of the hole is about 12 mm, but the bottom of the treaded portion is a little less than 10mm so that's how deep to drill. The bottom undrilled part of the bleeder is a bout 5.5 mm diameter, so is should fall out. You should be able to feel the drill meet the bottom of the bleeder hole.

You might use a dental pick to pull out some of the threads and get an M7-1 tap started or it may start on it's own.

Odds of success are quite good If you can get the caliper to a bench with a vise and good light. Doing it on the car, odds are not so good.

Good luck, Peter

1. remove and do on bench
2. drill it out and be very very careful about your drill depth

in all probability you will mess it up so spare yourself the time and headache right now and buy a rebuilt one from the auto store

This always sucks.....try whatever, but realize you may need to get the caliper rebuilt. Personally I would remove the caliper and work on it on a bench. If the bleed broke the flex line to hard line/hardline on the body side will probably break as well. To avoid that, loosen the fitting on the calip side, remove the calip then spin the claim to unscrew the flex line ( this will avoid the headache of also replacing hard line on the body.
Driling the bleed screw out until there is very little left , then a ´well sized reverse type extractor may do it, but be careful, drilling into the seat of the bleed valve surface will ruin it.