Trying to get the front suspension on my PV back in shape.
I'm replacing the shocks and springs and replacing the leaking seal on my steering box. While I was at it, I was trying to track down a clunk that I had suspected was coming from the idler arm. The idler arm shouldn't have any play at all, right? Right now I can wiggle the arm at the end about 1/8" and there is an audible clunk. I'm assuming that needs the rebuild kit with new bushings.

There is also play where the steering knuckle clamps on to the upper outer control arm around the eccentric bushing, and on the outer lower control arm. Should these be tight? I think the play is within the eccentric bushing. Adjustable or needs to be replaced?

Finally, how do I check the ball joints on the steering rods and tie rod ends. They all feel tight with no play. They feel stiffer when I first start moving them, like they just need a little lubrication. (car has sat for an extended period.)

thanks!
Steve

Some pretty good solvents are safe for rubber - I think that WD40 is, also Dawn detergent (safe for ducks too!)

try searching on the web.

I would try soaking them in Dawn 50-50 with water - dry and grease well if you have luck - grease again in a week or so.

It sounds like your idler arm needs rebuilding.

When assembled, it is difficult to properly check all of the pivot points on the front suspension, but if you are finding play, that is not a good sign.

The best time to check is when the springs are removed which is required to properly change the lower A-arm bushings.

You can check the king pins by pushing up on the wheel when the car is on jack stands or a hoist.

Check the steering rod and center links ends for play by gently squeezing the ball sockets with a large pair of slip joint pliers.

In case you need them, I usually have all of the parts to rebuild the entire front end of a both B16 and B18 PV Volvos.

FYI, when properly maintained but not abused, the front suspension parts on a PV are very hardy and can easily last more than 50 years. The only expection are the lower A-arm bushings. And because of that, I have recently seen an upsurge in front suspension sales.

I am sure glad that Volvo still sells just about everything needed and what Volvo doesn't sell anymore, is available from the aftermarket.
--
Eric
Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
Torrance, CA 90502
hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com

Finally got the chance to work on this again.
Pulled everything apart so I could check all the individual components.
Idler arm just had some vertical play so I was able to just use one of the shims from the rebuild kit.
King pins are all good.
The tie rods are tight but super stiff. They pivot with a lot of effort. Should they rotate too? Almost feels like they've rusted or that the lube has dried up. Didn't see how to get some solvent/lube in there without destroying the rubber boots.
The one problem appears to be that the screws on the upper and lower outer control arms have play in them. I can move the screws about an 1/8" when they're just threaded through the adjustment nut. They don't look that old. Definitely don't think they're stock. I know my grandfather rebuilt some of the front end and I thought he had done those too. Don't think they could have more than 10k miles on them. Just confirming that there should be no play in these before I spend $400 to replace them.

While I'm at it I'm going to go ahead and replace all the rubber bushings. For $30 no reason not to.

-Steve

Check the Wheeler Dealers PV544 programme on YouTube. Might be useful to you. You must also check the king pins.