Hello everyone,
I am new here. I just picked up a really nice 1990 Volvo 240 DL yesterday for the grand total of $375. It runs really well and has zero rust. However it does still need some maintenance before I feel comfortable driving it around much.

I am going to do all of the regular tune up stuff and buy a kit from IPD. Beyond that, the PO told me that the U joint needs to be changed. I am not what you would call an extremely experienced mechanic, but I have done a handful of repairs and can follow instructions. I have all your basic tools and ramps and jack stands.

I saw a couple videos on youtube but they weren't specific to this make/model. I also searched the forum and found a few things, but I was hoping for a specific write up. Does anyone have one? Is this something I could do in my driveway?

I have a very rudimentary understanding of the process... Basically detach the driveshaft, somehow remove the u joint, replace the u joint with a bearing press or beefy C clamp, and reinstall everything magically without frustration right? Maybe grease or Zerks or something? Help this poor fool out!

If you are sure you need a u joint, when you pull apart the driveshaft after properly marking the flange ends you may (should?) find that the gap between two of the "male" splines is filled with an epoxy-type material that corresponds with a "missing" spline in the receiving end of the shaft, if that makes sense. It will once you separate the shafts. This is a little extra peace of mind when reassembling so that you don't put it back one spline off. It is possible to put it back wrong but it tries very very hard to tell you something's wrong.

I only mention this because I once owned a 1993 that some fool just jammed back together to keep some yokes parallel or something when they should have been perpendicular. It was a mammoth pain getting the thing separated in the first place, and they just beat the crap out of the yokes to get it back into place the way they wanted it. Fwiw the car didn't have any abnormal driveshaft vibration that I noticed so I don't know how particular the splined shaft orientation really is in practice. I put it back the right way and there was no change. The shafts should separate easily given a good dust cap seal and no rust, but your car may be a northern car so who knows there.

Might as well check the center support bearing, its rubber holder, the spring and cupped washer while you're at it too. Flex disc too if it's a stick.

Do you have the Bentley manual for the car? As I recall it is pretty detailed in its description of the r&r procedure and the correct yoke orientations on reassembly. Definitely a worthwhile investment if you plan on doing really any work on the car. Though it may seem fairly expensive it is 100% worth it.

Just a tip to make sure it's a u joint you need.
I once confounded the need for a u joint with the need for new torque rod bushings. They have similar symptoms (clunking and/or vibration). As does a bad tail shaft bushing.
U joints on the 240 are normally very sturdy and long lasting.

i suggest you simply google the question

how to replace a driveshaft u joint.

a u joint is u joint is u joint pretty much the same on any car or truck you can find.

the volvo 240 u joint is the same on a 940 a 740 and my wife's range rover to name just a few that use the same u joint

Thank you that was helpful. I didn't realize they were pretty much all the same. Lots of good videos on youtube from other vehicles, just not necessarily my make and model. But now I know it doesn't matter much.

Here's a vid showing how to do what I tried to describe above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VQQdrUi9wA

I haven't done this myself, yet. But the one thing I will suggest is to make reference marks on the drive shaft and flanges so they go back the same way you took them off.

Excellent advice

That video was very helpful thank you

Follow guidance on marking things.

You remove the retaining clips - I soak 'em with some PB Blaster before I start work. Stout needle nose will allow you to decompress the clips, and it usually takes a small screw driver with the other hand to pry it out. Watch here --- they like to go "flying". Once the clips are removed, I use a small socket and my big bench vice to push on the cap on one side, and a larger socket on the opposite end to support the DS or flange/yoke and allow the opposite cap to be pushed INTO the larger socket. It can take a lot of force to move these along -- lots of lube and sometimes a bit of heat will loosen things up. I've never used a hammer or a press - always been able to do it with a vice. Once you get the opposite cap extended beyond the joint, you remove the cap -- I usually grab it with channel locks and remove it (this is sometimes easier said than done). Then take your little socket from the other side, and use the open end of the socket to push on the joint the OPPOSITE way to push the other cap out the other side - use channel locks to remove the second cap. Then you can snake that part of the joint out of the shaft/or flange/yoke. Same process for the other two caps.

Clean everything up -- careful attention to clean/buff the bores that the new caps go in and the grooves that the new clips fit in. Pull the caps off the new joint - be sure needle bearings stay in place. Press cap into the bore; snake joint in between the two bores; use vice to press cap into bore and over the end of the joint. Then place cap into bore on the opposite end. Use vice/socket to move one cap past the retaining groove - insert clip. Then use vice/socket to push other cap on just barely far enough to get retaining clip in. DO NOT push new caps any further than needed to get clips in or you'll feel the joint bind. You should be able to move it with your hand even though it will loosen up a bit in use.

Hope that helps. Bound to be someone that has filmed this and put it on youtube. I just replaced 2 joints in mine day before yesterday. About an hour.

Phenomenal help. I really do appreciate it. I will use all of this advice!