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Hi all,
My son just picked up a 1991 240 wagon with 190,000 miles on it. There is an issue that I can't figure out. Left front wheel when rotating you hear a loud thumbing noise that increases in frequency as the wheel rotates. If you press on the brake even just slightly the noise goes away. Release the brake it comes back. Doesn't matter if you turn of go straight the noise is the same. The guy we purchased it from said he took it to two mechanics and they can't figure it out. I took the wheel off and rotated the rotor by hand I don't hear a noise. Even with the tire on if I rotate the wheel manually I don't hear a noise. The brakes and rotors were replaced at 166,000 and they look in good shape, plenty of life on the pads. Could this be a caliper issue? If I hold the wheel while it's off the ground and shake it there is no wiggle. Any recommendations would be appreciated! Thanks
Rob
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Hi Rob;
Many good comments. I'll just add that this sounds like a wheel bearing to me. A trick I once picked up from a mechanic was that to check a wheel bearing, rotate the wheel while you pinch the coil spring between two fingers. The spring will act as an amplifier for any roughness/vibration in the bearing. When the noise stops when braking, perhaps it's because the brakes stop the vibration-?
Good luck,
Erling.
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Hi Erling,
Thanks, it's leaning toward the wheel bearing, which is above my skill level to replace. One thing I noticed is that there is some wiggle room with the rotor, meaning around the lug studs there is space enough for me to wiggle the rotor and have it clink against the lug studs if I shimmie it side to side. Is it possible that whoever did the brakes last installed the incorrect rotor? Like I mentioned even if I just apply the brakes slightly the noise goes away.
Going to register the car tomorrow so once it's legal I'll swing by my local mechanic and have him look at it.
The tail light fix was the two bottom 8a fuses, that fixed it, hopefully for good.
Rob
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Mon Oct 31 17:23 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
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"""
Thanks, it's leaning toward the wheel bearing, which is above my skill level to replace""
have you pulled off that grease cap in the hub and looked to see if the grease is dry, is it really black and old, is there metal in the grease.
PS, if replacing a wheel bearing is above your skill level, then you'd better have a pocketfull of cash at what $50-$75/hr plus parts...running about in a 25 YO Volvo 240.
Good luck...this board will try to help you SAVE. But you'll need to learn a bit or have $$$$$$$$$.
Here to help those who help themselves....BrickBoarders
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Thanks, I didn't pull the end cap off, I will tomorrow and take a look. Of course I'm willing to learn to do repairs like replacing the wheel bearing. I appreciate the replies and feedback and all the great information on this forum.
Rob
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Mon Oct 31 19:52 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
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hope you didn't take offense.
I've owned several brands of autos, but Volvos are one of the few marks that have a loyal following dedicated to keep them running and on the road.
links-r-us. plus personnal help
Web Links
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=
http://volvo.custhelp.com/app/homeV3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKOVF1qwPzI
cheers
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Yea I did a little....
My son is a college student he was in an accident a month ago and totaled his car. He needed a vehicle that was safe and reliable that he could purchase within his budget of $1,200.00. He found this car, 190,000 miles, at 166K the timing belt was done, tensioner, all belts, water pump, all new hoses. At 182K new brakes all around, new tires all around, new battery. New front struts, right ball joint replaced. I have all other receipts since the car was new. He picket up the car for $1K, I thought he made a good choice. The interior is perfect He needs the car to last two semesters around 10,000 miles. When we got it home we discovered a few issues that I'm trying to help him with t make the car road worthy and safe. Like I said I'm not a mechanic, I can do oil changes and valve cover gaskets, that's about all I've even done. We didn't buy the car as a project to rebuild it just as safe reliable transportation for him to get to school. I found this forum to ask questions and help me try and figure out and solve the current issues. If it's something I can fix I will do it myself, if it's above what I'm comfortable with I need to take it to a shop, he needs the car it can't sit in the driveway while I try and repair it on the weekend.
Like I said I appreciate the help from the folks who replied and offered their advice.
Rob
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If your lug nuts are properly torqued, there is no way to move the rotor. If just the little pin is holding it in place, it would not surprise me if you could wiggle it.
FYI, the pin actually does not do anything. The holes in the rotors can be moderately oversized (center hole size is very critical, though). The wheel holds the rotor on the hub and the interface between hub, rotor and wheel takes more than 90% of of the rotation torque of the braking.
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Gotcha I understand.
Thanks
Rob
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Sun Oct 30 16:04 CST 2016 [ RELATED]
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you wrote: Even with the tire on if I rotate the wheel manually I don't hear a noise.
So the noise happens when there is the full weight on front end.
Did those mechanics remove/replace the wheel bearing on the side that makes the noise? Are these the original bearings ...have they ever removed and repacked?
I'll go with something wrong there...they are needle/roller bearinigs one could be damaged. This diagnosis---because the wheel needs the weight to make the noise.
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Thanks guys for the replies. Ok so I ruled out the backing plate, that isn't rubbing. I swapped the back wheel to the front, same issue. As far as the wheel bearing, I have a stack of repair receipts since the car was new and I don't see any that mentions the wheel bearing being replaced. So it possibly is the original, it's odd though that is goes away when even the slightest pressure is applied to the brakes. I'm going to double check the caliper tomorrow, I have a good Volvo mechanic close by I will have him listen to it also once I get the car registered.
So tonight we uncovered another issue, no tail lights. I will search the forum for ideas on that. Brake lights work,just no tail lights. I guess I'll start with the bulbs. What's weird is when you apply the brakes the bulb failure light flashes briefly on the dash. Oh yea and the dash lights blew out last night as well. Thanks
Rob
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Yep, a used car can have more wrinkles in it than a Halloween costume. They don't get noticed until the porch light comes on.
Interesting thing about no wheel bearing work receipts. Mechanic won't figure things out unless they are "specifically paid" to do so. There may be free candy at times but seldom free lunches without a string attached.
So you flopped the wheels around so that takes care of that!
I had a motor home wheel crack a weld and had to replace it.
All caused by a " bump" sign on a freeway up in Washington State and I was below the recommended speed limit too! I thought the front got knock away.
By the time I got back down to California it was popping away like a loose hubcap. The Big surprise it was not a hubcap.
An 87 Chevy P 30's truly fall apart. 2 years ago the right lower "A" arm almost unbolted itself. Just getting back from a ten thousand mile trip and I thought it was a wheel bearing going bad until I crawled under there.
It scared me so, to know how lucky I was.
I agree that a bad wheel bearing or a spindle issue might be the next place to look!
Weight can do strange things to those little rolling members. Probably got some metal flaking off in them or the insides of the race(s) surfaces as well.
Phil
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make sure the brake dust plate is not rubbing
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Whoooo!
This is just in time to be spooky for tomorrow. (::-)
Are these steel or aluminum rims?
Do any of the rims look like they have suffered "curb rash?"
All kinds of scenarios come with used cars.
There no telling what is damaged.
Exchange the spare tire around.
There could have been some sort of shuffle done before any other PO's before him or by that thought some kids that aren't talking.
Sure sounds like it could be a cracked rim to me or the lower support arm.
I would have hoped that the lower arm was checked for damage.
With rims the weight squeezes the outer rim up (in) on one side and up (out) on the other side if not supported or retained evenly. Most of the time it is a creaking sound again good for Halloween.
Try moving that wheel to the other side or to the rear to start your hunt to rule out that wheel assembly.
Look for cracks from the bolt pattern to each other's hole. It is just as likely to find a crack somewhere from where the inner face rim welds to the outer rim on steel ones.
One spoke or inner tab might be only touching up really close.
On both types of rims, Try tapping the rim to see it rings when you have the tire removed. There should make a dud sound as the vibration (the hit) will not conduct the same.
As far as the sound going away when you touch the brakes sure put a bend in my theory but then that is another force in action. That in itself could twist the rim or point assembly in the front end.
The whole thing being check out by already scares me before Halloween.
Amazing how many owners of Volvos are in Autaugaville Al.
You must go through a big pile of candy if they are mostly station wagons! (:-)
Phil
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