Hi tinkerbelle,

I mention soldering as you write in your first post:

" I should mention that I could only hand-tighten the sensor I put in,and I had to cut the connector off an old 940 and splice it on with electrical tape."

"Then some proper connectors for that splice job and I should be good and the cel and 123 code should disappear.-right?"

I guess you used some sort of butt splice connector. Water tight and can take the heat and weather there under the intake manifold> Yeah, it should work OK, I guess.

As for your vacuum hose routing, if you could please post image of these:

"One of them is a thin plastic cable that comes from a bunch of wires at the firewall.It has a 1" rubber tip and a rubber tab on the end of it with a hole in it.The length is like if I put it through my oil dipstick top,there would be about an inch left over.It's dangling now and I can't figure out where it goes."

An image would help. I got nuthin'. Maybe the vacuum hose connection for the heater / ventilation? Though that is a black thin hard nylon line, with a black and white vacuum valve, with a rubber length at the tip. Connection to the intake manifold should be sort of obvious. I have no good images of a Bendix Rex / Regina manifold.

You have only on vacuum line you cannot find connection for?

On Bosch LH-Jet fuel / EZK ignition, a failed crank position sensor (CPS) means the fuel pumps won't run. I'm unsure of this is the case for a failed CPS on Bendix Regina (fuel) / Rex (ignition). Though a failed CPS would prevent the engine from starting.

Have you checked codes since your engine starting attempts?

So, speculatively:
- Certain the timing belt is aligned. Though the engine did run before you replaced the ECT sensor and made for a more permanent repair to the spliced in ECT wire harness connector to the wire harness.
- It did run, and you smell fuel, after this ECT replacement and a better spliced in ECT connector. You smell fuel. You hear the fuel pump. I'm unsure the behavior.
- Fuses 1 and 11 are good you say. Other fuses can affect whether it runs or not. Fuse 13 protects power (I guess, feed side) to the (load side) of the Rex ignition control module. Though for a 1991 Bendix equipped Rex / Regina 740:

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/740%20Wiring%20Diagrams/Volvo%20740%201991%20Wiring.pdf

PDF Page 23.

I cannot find a diagram for 1992 Volvo 740 Rex / Regina. We have 1992 940:

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/940%20Wiring%20Diagrams/Volvo%20940%201992.pdf

PDF Page 25. Appears the same fuses.

- You write "The other thing is : i took off the crank position sensor connector to clean it up and snapped it back on-I didnt bother the sensor itself.It has to be something small "

The Rex ICU (ignition control unit) uses both sides of the crank position sensor (CPS). If original to your 1992 Volvo 740, jostling it may have caused failure. With your multimeter set to continuity or resistance check, you test the CPS sensor connector between pins 1 and 3, and then 2 and 3. I'm unsure, yet there should not be continuity between CPS connector pins 1 and 2. Though, as we speculate here, this may or not be the cause as to no-start. As, per the wiring diagrams, the Rex ICU (ignition control unit) uses both sides of the CPS, failure of one side of the CPS may be a no start fault. (I've yet to prise apart a Rex ICU.)

- As you removed the air intake manifold (port), did you ensure no electrical connector or wire harness or cable were distressed as you moved the air intake port out of the way? Did any sensor or device bear any weight or was distressed as you removed the intake port (manfold), replaced the ECT and made a more durable connection at the spliced in ECT cable to the ECT cables on the wire harness side?

- More esoterically, we could further speculate an unrelated cause may have developed causing a no start condition. A mis-connected or faulty radio interface connection relay or a faulty fuel injector relay as mounted on the fuse and relay board at the bottom of the center dash console behind the ashtray.

- After this check connections, check for spark at the spark plugs using a spare spark plug connected to spark plug wire while someone else cranks the engine.

Other than that, folks like Spook may be better to answer your questions here.

If you have images, you can upload these to the BrickPix. The image must be no larger than 1 megabyte in file size.

Image size is irrelevant in spite of the instructions Jarrod has yet to update. The instructions to link the images to a post are nebulous. Best to use the full URL as we use Art's instructions here:



Or merely copy and paste the imagh HTML link for each image into a post. Some or all browser have trouble displaying the relative URL the BrickPix provides as HTML, yet I can get it to display.

welp, lettuce know. I have to finish working on my three Volvos. Oil changes, ABS system repair (done and successful) and blah, blah, blah. This crap is getting so god damned old. Unlike Onkel, my time is cheaper than my money, yet my time runs out, courtesy, the MK Ultra stuffed up the Cointelpro.

Where are you in MO-state? I reside in the Southwest St. Louis County slums. Some call it the "Queen of the Suburbs." Yet that was Ferguson or Florissant MO a century or more ago.

Replete with visits by the local and county gendarmes performing opioid pill busts (last week) or some woman stabbing the father of her child (few months ago).

I get harassed by a vile ex-con who appears each time I walk outdoors. He has a NHL Blues logo tattooed the back of his small shaved head. One wonders when he and the rest of his klan will show up to plant a burning cross on my Volvo 240. I'm going to St. Louis County court for a restraining order this week. Hurray! AmeriKa!

Hope that helps.

Questions?

Bruce.
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