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Advice - Exhaust Flange Nuts 200

I just spent way too much time undoing a headpipe/exhaust manifold connection on a 240. I climbed under the car with a 15 mm 6-point socket, extension and breaker bar fully expecting to resurface within ten minutes.

Unlike the many other times I had done this task, the headpipe flange nuts were unyielding. Even using the blue flame wrench resulted in the royal pain-in-the-ass of two twisted off studs.

I was puzzled because I never had that problem before no matter how many rust belt winters a 240 had seen. Then it dawned on me - when I replaced the headpipe on this car, I used the aftermarket, copper-coated nuts sold by a vendor. I guess, at the time, I reasoned how much different can the aftermarket stuff be especially when the OE Volvo nuts cost fifteen times as much. I reasoned wrong.

So, my advice to anyone replacing those headpipe flange nuts: do yourself a favor and spring for the real deal, they are costly for a good reason.

Rich (near Pittsburgh)








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    Advice - Exhaust Flange Nuts 200

    I had the same experience just last Spring. I wonder if the nuts were not original. It put me in a bind too, not having a set of those studs on hand.



    --
    Art Benstein near Baltimore

    "I haven't slept for ten days, because that would be too long." —Mitch Hedberg








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      Advice - Exhaust Flange Nuts 200

      Art, did you sneak into my shop and snap a photo?

      I got one of the studs out with the blue flame wrench and a pair of vice grips. The other two required some patience and the grip of a bench vise. (Every time I use the word "vise", I think of the time my kid asked me why I always misspell that word)

      Many years ago, I read of a technique to remove a stuck fastener - repeatedly douse it with kerosene and ping it with a ballpeen over a period of several days. In my case, I used PB Blaster in place of kerosene.

      Rich (near Pittsburgh)








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      Advice - Exhaust Flange Nuts 200

      hi art

      a solution that has worked for me a few times is to remove the studs in the manifold, re-tap the threads there so they tap all the way through then use 10mm hex cup socket screws in stainless steel.

      they present minimal troubles on removal.

      by doing this you eliminate the rust issue of the nuts degrading and rounding off, you eliminate the stress placed on the stud from over torqueing the alien nut because the socket cup being turned is integral with the shaft of the screw. very similar to volvo 940 front brake caliper bolts only smaller.








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        Advice - Exhaust Flange Nuts 200

        hi arty b and other notable sages- this is an interesting problem which i havent yet had the distinct privilege of attacking on my 92 245. however i have done this mere pleasantry on fords and dodges though. generally it quickly graduates from a conundrum to a seething clusterf@#!k. preceded by the stud into the head breaking or the nut stripping or rounding on the stud. perhaps the answer is to use the special metals of the nuts and studs referred to in the thread, despite their absurd costs. the long exposure to the elements and many heating and cooling cycles seems to exacerbate the difficulty. are these wonder metals like the nickel alloy used in the volvo brake lines and nuts? uncle moe told me once the only way out of this is to gently turn the nut left and right with a tight 6 point socket while using pb blaster and applying bernzomatic torch heat to the sides of the nut to expand it. its one of the few times moe warned me to be patient and dont cuss. what think you good folks? smarter folks than me here may have devised a better breakthrough technique. im all ears. as moe said at omaha, give em hell. thanks tons oldduke







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