With Racing and helping other folks move and lots of other crap going on, I deferred a lot of routine maintenance on the old 940. When you become as "familiar" with these cars as I have you know how far you can push things but it certainly does not mean it is without consequences.

I am firm believe in just adding pads on non warp rotors that are within spec come brake pad time. I did this apparently once too often this time around (I am SURE I mic'ed them the first pad change but equally sure I did not this time). Rotors were worn enough beyond spec that I couls see metal to metal contact on both rotors either from the bracket or caliper. One of my rehab'ed slider pins had seized making matters worse.

About two months ago I found the cause of my occasional long-crank issues with what I thought was a pinhole leak in the fuel filter which is what sidelined the care to emergency only duty. Today I pulled the filter and pump to find that the low pressure line to the main pump had a crumbling clamp. Of course the filter was perforated in multiple places under the clamp and the pump-side line exploded upon attempted removal (banjo fitting, filter-side turned to dust trying to remove).

Lastly, my new in 2012 sway bar links were broken. This time at a weld so likely a manufacturing defect. I did what we do on the race cars and just replaced them with COT urethane bushings, all thread and nuts.

I noticed one bump stop (driver front) is starting to deteriorate so struts and new bump stops...possibly new springs...are in my future.

Still, not bad for 175K of which about 50K of indifferent ownership has not done any permanent damage. Some day I will get a cream puf and treat it as such, but life has a way of keeping my in DD that jst won't die.

And corrosion is kicking my tail still...the entire exhaust inculding the manifold is likely coming out as each fastener I hit...one in three will no longer have hex edges when I start...or by the time I am done.

Down pipe to cat...ONE nut still had edges and the bolt/stud on that one snapped anyway. This crap is getting old.

"This crap is getting old."

Assume you mean working on exhaust systems on your back.

Those three cat-to-downpipe bolts routinely require whittling with dremel, cutoff wheel, and cold chisel in my experience. Doing this with any regularity (I mean more than once a year spread among 8 cars) gets me also to wondering where the fun is. Exhaust work gives me lift envy.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Is it wrong that only one company makes the game Monopoly?

Pulling the manifold did it.

I had tried welding on a nut to the exposed stud threads in place...got a good weld twice and got the whole assembly red hot in the process...sheared the stud at the old nut bot times.

Out of the car, welded a nut to the nut and they spun right off.

Ran out of energy and just got the manifold and downpipe back in. I hate rust.

Dear Art Benstein,

Hope you're well. Have you used stainless bolts/nuts when re-assembling? If so, do stainless fasteners corrode?

I ask, because I wonder if preventive replacement - before exhaust fasteners become so corroded that they must be cut - is worthwhile.

Thanks for the benefit of your insights.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

I've been using stainless bolts at that one location for a couple years now. Too soon to come to any conclusion. The nuts are still the all-steel lock nuts, because I've not looked into whether something appropriate is available for that task. I hope it was a good choice. Nothing has fallen off yet, anyhow. It is a lot different maintaining a minor fleet, with respect to learning what works and what doesn't. Lots of notes. Pictures.

Might look into a package of these: http://www.mcmaster.com/#94560a100/=14q3nfp
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

My wife and I were happy for twenty years; then we met.

I had great success removing the Fuel filter off my former 245 (the salty Dog)by placing an Oil filter wrench of the appropriate diameter around it- after grinding away the end of the rivet on the band.
--
94 945 turbo 233k, 89 245 ( 251k ), 71 1800e (120k), + 8 motorcycles *primary cycle is a 77 bmw r100/7 (89k) - cafed.

It my case the nut crimped inside the fuel filter actually shredded the crimped sheet metal of the filter housing. Oil filter wrench would not have helped there.

The depressing part of it is, the banjo bolt was about halfway spun out when it jammed, I assume the nut cocked in the filter shell and started spinning (again, I was holding the hex tightly with my largest set of channel locks and I do not think they slipped).

I'm curious about your fuel line issue. Just last night I posted about an apparently-similar issue with my 240. I guess I need to get under the car and look. I was going to get a fuel filter for this car when I bought it in June but it looked fairly new so I didn't bother. I don't get any fuel smell though, did you get any on your 940? Oddly enough my Honda DD is the car that has a strong raw fuel smell I haven't bothered to track down yet.

Keep those RWD cars running!

This was the filter leaking but intermittently as 23 years of road salt had corroded it under the rubber clamp...the clamp kept it from leaking visibly 90% of the time but just enough to drop the line pressure and introduce air.

Be warned, the removal of the pump to filter line is always tricky but with corrosion, it is near impossible. I clamped the "hex" on the filter with my 24" channel locks and it still tore the filter apart before the banjo fitting unscrewed all the way.

Your fuel smell could be a failed filter swap in such that the 3" line I speak of developed a crack from spinning.

You do not mention the age of your 240 but I had to replace the accumulator on two K-jet models due to leaking.

the easiest and least damaging method of removing banjo bolts on fuel filer/lines
is to use an 18 volt quality impact or an air impact backed by a good compressor.

i use to do it your way and was always irritated by the result.

since using the method above they spin off in a few seconds effortlessly and go back just as easily without so much as a whimper from the filter or brackets.

my daily driver 940 i bought years ago from the broker who bought it at auction with a bad transmission or so they thought. hard jarring shifts and black fluid.
the first 4 flushes over a 3 month period yielded tolerable shifts. that was over 8 years ago and the transmission now shifts almost imperceptibly. they are well engineered transmission, remarkably so.

in torque what is known as the rotational moment that is applied to the stuck fastener is very poorly controlled with hand tools and cheater bars. by applying an impact the moment is literally confined to the diameter of the spinning impact gun shaft which is why it is so efficient at removing rusty nuts/bolts.

there is no wasted torque applied at a distance from the nut in question which will distort everything attached to the nut.

100% in agreement. It is a pleasure to read an analysis such as yours, and especially so because it agrees so well with mine. :)


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

98% OF AMERICANS SAY 'OH S***' BEFORE GOING IN THE DITCH ON A SLIPPERY ROAD.
THE OTHER 2% ARE FROM MAINE, NEW HAMPSHIRE & VERMONT, AND THEY SAY, 'HOLD MY BEER AND WATCH THIS.'

Interesting, that banjo was a 17 mm on mine and the "front" crossover banjo was 18 mm.

Since I have more money than time for this I just ordered the reproduction replacement line from IPD. Sure, with shipping it is $25 more than a foot of line would have cost me but I abhor doing swedged lines and vowed never to do them again.

Um, used an impact...same result. It is possible in many climates to remove it without destruction. There also occasionally luck involved. In my case, I am not sure any of these would have worked based on 20 years in the rust belt.


The only thing I can think of would have been the orientation of the channel locks.