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I'll try to make this short! My 92 740 wagon (non-turbo) was experiencing intermittent no-start problems. Volvo tech could not figure it out and thought it was internal engine damage.I took the dog-gone thing home and proceeded to remove and replace the cylinder head.(took me 6 months with help from Brickboard and others)Also replaced gaskets ,plugs, wires, rotor,fuel pump relay,coil wire,timing belt.Well it started right up but I have a check engine light. code 123. I replaced the temp sensor to the gauge because the gauge wasn't moving.Now after reading the FAQ section for the 8th time I realize that I should maybe replace the 2nd temp sensor!If I do that ,do you think the cel will go away? Also the electric cooling fan does not come on and I don't seem to have a fan relay to check-only the radio noise suppression .It doesnt also operate the fan,does it? I should mention that I could only hand-tighten the sensor I put in,and I had to cut the connector off an old 940 and splice it on with electrical tape.I mention this because I know the engine will make adjustments based off what the gauge sends it. I feel like all these symptoms may be related and it would be great if I could find the culprit.Sorry I don't have a pointed question but I've done so much on my own I'm just looking for some fresh viewpoints and any other advice some of you kind folks can give me. I'm a 60-year- old gal and I've been under the hood so much I'm beginning to call left 'right' and right 'left' ! :) Thank you so much guys (and gals).
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Hi Tinkerbelle,
Why would you replace the cylinder head? I'll hope you and your Volvo technician were able to exhaustively diagnose and deduce the cylinder head was at fault? Requiring you remove, rebuild, and reinstall the cylinder head? Quite an undertaking!
Is your 1992 normally-aspired (non-turbo) 740 wagon equipped with:
- Bosch LH-Jetronic fuel control / EZK ignition
- Bendix Regina fuel control / Rex ignition
Image courtesy iPd USA. The image shows the Bosch and Rex/Regina (Bendix) ignition coils.
????
Indeed, the engine, the cylinder head, actually, in your 1992 Volvo 740 wagon come fitted with two temp sensors:
- The front, dual wire temp sensor connects to the dash mounted engine coolant temperature gauge. Has no effect on engine control.
- The rear, dual wire, with the big connector, engine coolant sensor (ECT) connects, and used by the engine control (fuel and ignition).
Temperature Gauge Sensor
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (Used for engine / emissions control)
From the FAQ (Click FAQ at the top of each brickboard.com page), please read:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm#EngineTemperatureSensors
"I should maybe replace the 2nd temp sensor!If I do that ,do you think the cel will go away?"
You removed and replaced the ECT after installing the cylinder head? One would normally, I guess, remove, test, if need replace, and install cylinder head-mounted items like sensors and some other hardware before you install the (rebuilt?) cylinder head back on the engine, and install large components to the cylinder head like the air intake manifold, the exhaust manifold, the timing belt, coolant hoses and coolant.
Though some would install the cylinder head to the engine block, install fragile bits like sensors and some wire harness connections to the cylinder head, and then the bigger parts and pieces like the manifolds, coolant hoses, and such.
This brickboard contains innumerable articles that discuss how to access the ECT sensor to test it and replace it. Some may suggest intake manifold removal. Other remove all piping and the throttle body to gain access with a wrench. You cannot use a socket to remove it as the wire harness connector on the ECT sensor is to large.
" I should mention that I could only hand-tighten the sensor I put in,and I had to cut the connector off an old 940 and splice it on with electrical tape."
Which sensor? The ECT sensor, I'll imagine? You must apply a proper torque to the ECT sensor so it won't leak coolant and the ECT sensor is grounded properly to the engine. The ECT sensor is comprised of two, separate thermistors (temperature sensors). One sensor is used for the fuel injection control and the other sensor is used by the ignition control. Why I ask which engine control (Bosch or Bendix) come fitted to your 1992 Volvo 740 wagon.
ECU = Engine Control Unit. What some call the computer. Your 1992 Volvo 740 uses one ECU for fuel control and another ECU for ignition (spark). Both also control emissions.
Using electrical tape to hold together twisted copper wire connections on such a sensitive system, in the under-hood environment the electrical wire (and adhesive) from the heat, grime, and moisture, will cause problems for you and shortly. Well, you have OBD socket 2 fault code 1-2-3 - failure of the ECT to communicate with the fuel control ECU (Bosch and Bendix).
Soldering the wires together and sealing with durable heat shrink, or replacing the wires from the ECT to both ECUs would be preferable.
There does exist a small chance, inside the wire harness, between the #2 and #3 air intake manifold runners, is something like a spliced connection (or two) that interrupts the ECT to ECU (on or both) conductors. I'm unsure. It is better to repair what you know to be incorrect before adding another variable to the diagnosis and repair mix. The problem is worse in rust belt and humid locales.
"I mention this because I know the engine will make adjustments based off what the gauge sends it."
Incorrect. The engine control system (Bosch or Bendix), adjusts engine operation based on what the sensors tell it, proper wire harness condition and electrical connection, engine control system programming, and operator (driver) input. In this instance, it is the ECT that serves such a purpose.
The engine, the cylinder head, actually, in your 1992 Volvo 740 wagon come fitted with two temp sensors:
- The front, dual wire temp sensor connects to the dash mounted engine coolant temperature gauge. Has no effect on engine control.
- The rear, dual wire, with the big connector, engine coolant sensor (ECT) connects, and used by the engine control (fuel and ignition).
So you have OBD socket 2 fault code 1-2-3 - failure of the ECT to communicate with the fuel control ECU (Bosch and Bendix):
- Failure of the ECT (the fuel control side). If you have Bosch engine control, check socket six for fault codes.
- Failure of the wiring between the ECT and the ECU
Do you have any other fault codes?
From the FAQ (Click FAQ at the top of each brickboard.com page), please read:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm
This brickboard is replete with many thread on testing both coolant temp sensor (gauge and engine control ECT).
Do you have a service / repair manual for your Volvo 740?
See http://volvowiringdiagrams.com/:
Specifically - The 1991 740 Volvo wiring diagram for non-turbo can help you in this directory:
http://volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/740%20Wiring%20Diagrams
The PDF File:
"Volvo 740 1991 Wiring.pdf"
Specifically - The 1992 Volvo 940 wiring diagram for non-turbo can help you in this directory:
http://volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=volvo/940%20Wiring%20Diagrams
The PDF File:
"Volvo 940 1992.pdf"
Both 1992 740 and 940 had Turbo Bosch, and non-turbo Bosch and non-Turbo Regina / Rex (Bendix).
As the electric cooling pusher (or puller, with no water pump mounted fan)) fan in front of the A/C condenser and engine coolant radiator and the radio suppression relay ....
Unless the water pump-mounted fan was removed by you or a prior owner, and you have an electric fan option that pulls air through the AC Condenser and the Engine Coolant Radiator?
The radio suppression relay is part of the fuel injection and connects to the fuel injectors, electrically. It has no connection to the fan.
There is a single coolant fan relay. I speak of the pusher auxiliary fan in front of the AC Condenser coils and the Engine Coolant Radiator. With Bosch engine control this pusher fan turns on when you have A/C (ECC) on and can turn on as engine coolant, using the ECT sensor, rises. There is no connection between a Bendix Rex/Regina equipped 1992 Volvo 740 and the engine coolant fan. (Unless I'm wrong and may be.) The pusher fan is turned on by the ECC (A/C control system.)
If you have a electric only fan option, like this, which 740 does not have from the factory (940 may - A swap some will to when modding a 700):
Relay for the puller fan at upper left in image -
This page, from where these images come from:
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/volvo_electric_fan.shtml
The fan may be seized as the factory lube can dry out. You can rebuild the fan and relube it or replace the fan with something after market or new from Volvo, maybe.
Or, see this eBay auction for the relay the pusher fan uses, I believe, yet am not sure:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-740-240-Cooling-fan-fuel-pump-Radio-Noise-Suppression-Relay-899931-1323592-/361480321708
Using a multimeter, where you can test for volts (powered circuits), and (not powered circuits) continuity and resistance, may help you.
Hope that helps you.
Questions?
Thanks.
MacDuff.
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Oh Gosh,thanks MacDuff for such a comprehensive answer! The reason for the head replace was intermittent no-start and disappearing coolant. Turns out the head was indeed warped so I replaced it with a better one. I put in new spark plugs while it was out, and had I known the temp sensor was bad I would've replaced that too,but the cel and code 123 didnt show up til after the install.Looks like I'll be taking the intake manifold off again -Drat!! Well, I'll do the research you suggested and now that the weather has cooled off I'll get back under the hood. It's a regina system, by the way. Thanks again!
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Hi tinkerbelle,
Congrats on the cylinder head replacement. No small task by any means. Easier on rear wheel drive 4-cylinder or Volvo 164 overhead valve six cylinder.
Thank you. Glad to help. Sorry if I came across as obstinate in my reply. I do that, yet don't mean to.
Remember to have replacement gaskets on hand. I forget who makes quality air intake port to cylinder head gaskets. You probably won't have to remove the throttle body from the air intake port (manifold - we call these ports on fuel injected engines, apparently.).
Your brickboard.com is replete with procedure to test the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT). Using an electric multimeter with continuity / resistance (ohms) function. Use the search function for:
test ECT
You would need to clean the wire harness wires you twisted together, use some durable quality heat sink, or other weather tight electrical sealing solution, to seal it all up so it thrives in the "under the air intake port (manifold) engine area for the heat, cold, grime, moisture, and dust" environment.
There is procedure to remove and replace the ECT here with a full coolant system. I sort of like to lower the coolant so the ECT securing thread meets with dry thread at the hole thread for the ECT, so you know you've applied proper torque. You do not need teflon tape. The ECT sensors each ground through the ECT body to the cylinder head. So, I guess coolant exposure is really not a worry. (Coolant is corrosive and you have dissimilar metals meeting as the ECT barrel is a more noble brass-like alloy meeting with the less-noble light aluminum alloy of the cylinder head.) I dunno the torque value.
Others here may have suggestion for use of a thread-sealing compound? I'm not sure. Hopefully someone here can help you.
And when you mix coolant, as you know, use distilled, demineralized, or deionized water. Do not ever use tap water when mixing anti-freeze with water to make coolant.
Hope that helps.
Questions?
Wednesday MacDuffy's Tavern - featuring Bing Crosby and the original radio show cast.
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Oh, no worries-I appreciate the help and advice. Ok, so I'm looking at pulling off the intake manifold.That means the fuel rail too because I remember there was one nut I couldn't get a socket on because the rail was in the way.It's ok though.It was just off so it should be a lot easier this time.I bought Victor Reinz gaskets from IPD so as long as I don't damage it I shouldn't need another one.I'll put a new temp sensor in-the one that goes to the ecm.Guess that will have to come from IPD too because my parts store here wants $80 for it!Probably Bosch. Then some proper connectors for that splice job and I should be good and the cel and 123 code should disappear.-right? I have a mult-meter but I don't know how to use it. ;) Guess I better learn!Ok- Ill get started and let you know how it goes. Thanks!
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Ok-I put the new sensor on and put everything back together.Now it won't start. Cranks, won't turn over. Sounds like it's out of gas. It's not. I hear fuel pump whine, I feel new fuel pump relay click,both 1 & 11 fuses are good. i can't imagine what the deal is now.It started before I did this latest repair. Ideas?
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I thoroughly read the sensor replacement threads.It was still easier to take the manifold off. Don't know what you mean about soldering-I screwed in the temp sensor and snapped the connector from the harness back on . Regina system,yes. Slight smell of gasoline at tailpipe. The only thing I can think of is that I have 2 manifold hoses that I 'm not sure where they are supposed to go. One of them is a thin plastic cable that comes from a bunch of wires at the firewall.It has a 1" rubber tip and a rubber tab on the end of it with a hole in it.The length is like if I put it through my oil dipstick top,there would be about an inch left over.It's dangling now and I can't figure out where it goes. I took pictures before the dismantle but it's no help. The other thing is : i took off the crank position sensor connector to clean it up and snapped it back on-I didnt bother the sensor itself.It has to be something small I'm overlooking because it started before this. Really want this to be over. 85* today but what? frost next week?
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Hi tinkerbelle,
I mention soldering as you write in your first post:
" I should mention that I could only hand-tighten the sensor I put in,and I had to cut the connector off an old 940 and splice it on with electrical tape."
"Then some proper connectors for that splice job and I should be good and the cel and 123 code should disappear.-right?"
I guess you used some sort of butt splice connector. Water tight and can take the heat and weather there under the intake manifold> Yeah, it should work OK, I guess.
As for your vacuum hose routing, if you could please post image of these:
"One of them is a thin plastic cable that comes from a bunch of wires at the firewall.It has a 1" rubber tip and a rubber tab on the end of it with a hole in it.The length is like if I put it through my oil dipstick top,there would be about an inch left over.It's dangling now and I can't figure out where it goes."
An image would help. I got nuthin'. Maybe the vacuum hose connection for the heater / ventilation? Though that is a black thin hard nylon line, with a black and white vacuum valve, with a rubber length at the tip. Connection to the intake manifold should be sort of obvious. I have no good images of a Bendix Rex / Regina manifold.
You have only on vacuum line you cannot find connection for?
On Bosch LH-Jet fuel / EZK ignition, a failed crank position sensor (CPS) means the fuel pumps won't run. I'm unsure of this is the case for a failed CPS on Bendix Regina (fuel) / Rex (ignition). Though a failed CPS would prevent the engine from starting.
Have you checked codes since your engine starting attempts?
So, speculatively:
- Certain the timing belt is aligned. Though the engine did run before you replaced the ECT sensor and made for a more permanent repair to the spliced in ECT wire harness connector to the wire harness.
- It did run, and you smell fuel, after this ECT replacement and a better spliced in ECT connector. You smell fuel. You hear the fuel pump. I'm unsure the behavior.
- Fuses 1 and 11 are good you say. Other fuses can affect whether it runs or not. Fuse 13 protects power (I guess, feed side) to the (load side) of the Rex ignition control module. Though for a 1991 Bendix equipped Rex / Regina 740:
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/740%20Wiring%20Diagrams/Volvo%20740%201991%20Wiring.pdf
PDF Page 23.
I cannot find a diagram for 1992 Volvo 740 Rex / Regina. We have 1992 940:
http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/volvo/940%20Wiring%20Diagrams/Volvo%20940%201992.pdf
PDF Page 25. Appears the same fuses.
- You write "The other thing is : i took off the crank position sensor connector to clean it up and snapped it back on-I didnt bother the sensor itself.It has to be something small "
The Rex ICU (ignition control unit) uses both sides of the crank position sensor (CPS). If original to your 1992 Volvo 740, jostling it may have caused failure. With your multimeter set to continuity or resistance check, you test the CPS sensor connector between pins 1 and 3, and then 2 and 3. I'm unsure, yet there should not be continuity between CPS connector pins 1 and 2. Though, as we speculate here, this may or not be the cause as to no-start. As, per the wiring diagrams, the Rex ICU (ignition control unit) uses both sides of the CPS, failure of one side of the CPS may be a no start fault. (I've yet to prise apart a Rex ICU.)
- As you removed the air intake manifold (port), did you ensure no electrical connector or wire harness or cable were distressed as you moved the air intake port out of the way? Did any sensor or device bear any weight or was distressed as you removed the intake port (manfold), replaced the ECT and made a more durable connection at the spliced in ECT cable to the ECT cables on the wire harness side?
- More esoterically, we could further speculate an unrelated cause may have developed causing a no start condition. A mis-connected or faulty radio interface connection relay or a faulty fuel injector relay as mounted on the fuse and relay board at the bottom of the center dash console behind the ashtray.
- After this check connections, check for spark at the spark plugs using a spare spark plug connected to spark plug wire while someone else cranks the engine.
Other than that, folks like Spook may be better to answer your questions here.
If you have images, you can upload these to the BrickPix. The image must be no larger than 1 megabyte in file size.
Image size is irrelevant in spite of the instructions Jarrod has yet to update. The instructions to link the images to a post are nebulous. Best to use the full URL as we use Art's instructions here:
Or merely copy and paste the imagh HTML link for each image into a post. Some or all browser have trouble displaying the relative URL the BrickPix provides as HTML, yet I can get it to display.
welp, lettuce know. I have to finish working on my three Volvos. Oil changes, ABS system repair (done and successful) and blah, blah, blah. This crap is getting so god damned old. Unlike Onkel, my time is cheaper than my money, yet my time runs out, courtesy, the MK Ultra stuffed up the Cointelpro.
Where are you in MO-state? I reside in the Southwest St. Louis County slums. Some call it the "Queen of the Suburbs." Yet that was Ferguson or Florissant MO a century or more ago.
Replete with visits by the local and county gendarmes performing opioid pill busts (last week) or some woman stabbing the father of her child (few months ago).
I get harassed by a vile ex-con who appears each time I walk outdoors. He has a NHL Blues logo tattooed the back of his small shaved head. One wonders when he and the rest of his klan will show up to plant a burning cross on my Volvo 240. I'm going to St. Louis County court for a restraining order this week. Hurray! AmeriKa!
Hope that helps.
Questions?
Bruce.
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Thanks again KGV. Yesterday I got a new windshield and today it passed inspection!I can get plates now but I still have 2 issues which we have already discussed: the 143 code and the cooling fan. I found the relay for the cooling fan on the front of the car after I removed the battery. So I'll get one of those and a new knock sensor.Note to anyone swapping cylinder heads: Go ahead and buy new sensors and put them in BEFORE the swap.It's soo much easier and takes up way less time. Had I known.... This head was 90,000 miles newer than my old one so I didn't think it would be an issue,after all, my old sensors had 143,000 miles on them and never a c.e.l. You asked if I had a 740 manual and I'm embarrassed to say NO. And I can't even come up with an excuse.After 13 years of this,You'd think I would have got one at some point. I do have an old 240 Haynes manual which has similarities but it can throw you off,I know.They aren't interchangeable.I've been piecing information together from here and there. Anyway,after these minor repairs I should be ok. Except for that massive oil leak that I forgot about. (10w molasses?)
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Hi tinkerbelle,
Congrats on passing the hoop-dee-do MO-state safety inspection.
Legislation driven my the big rich family owned car dealerships in St. Loogey, Mierable.
You have mileage and you have age on the head and connected compoennts, cush as sensors. So, even though 143,xxx miles may seem like not much, some components do suffer chronological age at 24 or so years, no matter the miles.
Massive oil leak? The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system may be clogged, preventing the release of engine oil chamber (sump) vapors, forcing oil out through seals.
Inspect the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system on your 1992 Volvo 740. If running regular (not synthetic) oil, exacerbated by irregular or infrequent oil changes, the PCV systems can clog in two places:
- The PCV flame trap, which is a plastic sieve-like thing.
- Worse, a clogged PCV breather box.
As you obverse the engine bay, in the gap between the #3 and #4 air intake (port) manifold runners (tubes) is the PCV vacuum vapor hose and assembly piping. The breather box is below. One rather large vapor line secure to the accordion hose that secures to the throttle body.
As you look at the throttle body - large black accordion air intake hose connection, to the left is the primary PCV hose for engine oil sump vapor collection, drawn into the engine to be burned.
I'll:
- Loosen and let set ajar the oil fill cap.
- Loosen the aforementioned PCV vapor collection hose at the the throttle body / large black accordion air intake hose connection.
Clean the end and blow through it. You should be able to:
1. Blow freely through the end of the hose as hard as you can and the displaced atmosphere escapes through the engine oil fill hole freely. If not freely, or severely restricted, or not able to blow through at all, your PCV is clogged.
- Restore the engine oil fill hole cap to the secured (and sealed) position. It should be nearly impossible to blow through the hose. Though you can force air through it slowly it okay. If you can blow through it easily, you may have an air intake leak or other issue.
Images
iPd USA diagram of PCV system.
Some reference:
iPd USA PCV part listing, just for your info (paste link in new browser window)
https://www.ipdusa.com/prodtype.asp?CAT_ID=1067&numRecordPosition=0&categorycrumbs=986
700-900-90 FAQ: PCV, oil leaks, and such.
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm
You Toob Videos:
Intro to Volvo 240 PCV Part 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFGo_OdH55Q
Intro to Volvo 240 PCV Part 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HunKP4ehyo8
Volvo B230F PCV crankcase pressure test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYW3dxt9Il0
(On a Turbo 700. Most use this method to check the PCV).
Quwestions?
Hope that helps.
How I Despise this Sh*tsgiving Holiday.
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hello KGV- Again thanks for the research and info. My Haynes manual is a 76-93 blue cover. And my car actually has 243,000 on it,so I guess it's bound to have issues. I'll try re-setting the codes to see if the cel goes off.But i had the negative cable off the battery while I put the knock sensor in so I thought that would do it. It was off a couple miles,then reared its ugly head again. I'm pretty sure the oil leak is between the tranny and engine-thinking about taking it to a friend's transmission shop and see if he can do anything with it. And while blowing oil thru a vapor-collection hose sounds like loads of fun, I'd sooner spend 4 hours in a toy store on Black Friday.... Ok, I'll do it. But I won't like it. Yeah, I saw that sieve-thing last time I dropped a bolt under the car and had to slide under there.It was an oily black mess. This is the kind of work I really hate to do. Well ,the day is almost over.I missed the best part- the Dog Show , Don't even know which dog won-I'm rooting for the Labrador.-Tinkerbelle
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Hi Tinkerbelle,
The rear main bearing seal and / or the rear main bearing seal plate carrier gasket is losing or has lost seal. A clogged PCV exacerbates any existing leaks. A clogged PCV can indeed, with extra oil sump pressure build up, can force engine oil out through the lower seals. If not a clog at the PCV flame trap sieve, then the breather box may be partially or wholly obstructed.
I have to ask, why bother with this 1992 Volvo 740? Though one can see how crappy and full of BS the used car market is in the nasty region in and around my most despised North American city, well, anything in the Midwest and Spokane, WA.
The Hope and Change Wall Street subsidy in the form of "Cash For Klunkers" did no good for the used car market. A 7-10 year old car in the St. Louis region may be 8-10K$ with average miles.
Though someone told me to check AutoTrader regularly. You seem to have better things to do and people to do them with and for in life. Slaving away over an aged and abused automobile seems a wast of time for you. I've been doing it for well over 30 years, yet I'm not obstructed with anyone to do things with or for in the last 20 years. I'm quite alone and without any friends, family, and even work mates.
Rejoice! Rejoice! The Sh*twood, oop, Kirkwood High School Pioneers football team defeated the Webster Groves Statesman in the oldest football rivalry (of any sort) today during the annual Turkey Day Football Game between the two high schools. St. Louis County: Like the city therein ... what a toilet. Missouri sucks as does Illinois.
Yeah, I like the dog show this day. NFL football is so boring anymore, as are all professional major league sports. I'd rather intellectual or cooperative endeavors and pursuits shared with others, citizen. Yet that is the Degenerate Dis-nited States of AmeriKa. Your right is to consume the ideas, products, and services slung out to the masses profit Wall Street shareholders and foreign sovereign nations so undeserving.
The light blue or sort of a light green-blue cover. That should be okay. Just beware the procedure to replace power steering fluid or service the front hubs on 240. Haynes has it wrong in there.
Oil leak? You are sure it is engine oil and not transmission fluid. Easily identified with a white napkin visually or by smell.
If the rear main bearing seal and / or rear main bearing seal carrier plate gasket that is leaking, repair requires transmission removal to access the rear main bearing seal. So, if someone does that for you on discount or for free, you have a friend, I guess.
Pumpkin Pie. What I would normally make this day. Using Libby's Pumpkin. Not this year again. Not for anyone. Not with anyone. I wholly and utterly despise this holiday and the next hypocritical BS holiday. Being AmeriKan: Exercises in mindless consumerism.
Welp, lettuce know how it goes. Thanks for giving me an excuse to ventilate. Sobriety utterly blows in the city of crappy Anheuser-Busch. AmeriKKKa the massivley corrupt, no matter the appearance of what resides in the brown house at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue in the District of Criminals (the DC).
Happy Hallow-Dayze!
Buttermilk "Manifesto" MacDuff - The Bombast with three college diplomas I earned and paid for myself.
Utterly hate this holiday. hate, hate, hate it.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Well, I"ll see to that oil problem someday-the only reasons I care are that 1.it makes an oily mess on the streets,driveway, or wherever I park. 2. Oil is expensive. When I found out the cylinder head needed to be replaced,I was advised to just call Speedway and junk it. My intention was to bring it back up to operating condition and sell it-I could use the money for so many other things. But my daughter's car went on the blink-suffering from intermittent no-start(sound familiar?)So.....Hence, the inspection, and license tags. Since it's running, may as well fix the oil leak,and the this and the that. Where it will end ,I don't know. I do have better things to do,even if it's just watching TV. I did get to get out to the country Friday and hike a few hours,though. (You didn't really think I was going to spend Black Friday in a toy store,did you?)So we went to Ste.Genevieve county and hiked Pickle Springs trail.It was my 8th time there and it's always nice-so many rock formations and outcroppings,creeks,hills,caves.You come back with your brain stocked with a fresh supply of endorphins-does ya good! Missouri isn't bad when you see the countryside.It's only the politics and laws, and crime .The ground is good. Do you belong to Gateway vcoa? the Volvo club. You'd probably like it.They go on drives and outings and stuff. I never joined because my Volvo went South soon as I heard about it. My daily driver is my Odyssey minivan.It's comfy and everything works-and it has 12 cupholders! I never work on it and I remain blissfully ignorant of anything under the hood.It has a plastic shroud buttoned up over everything except the dipsticks,as if to say " Stay out of here.You don't know what you're doing!" And I comply.It needs the spark plugs changed and I don't even know where they are! I did put brakes on it last year though. But that's all. Turkey Day- well that can be any day,can't it? I have one in my freezer and some frosty day coming up, I'll thaw it out and pop it in the oven. It might be on a Saturday,but who knows? And pumpkin pie-any day is a good pie day. Well, that's it for today-One of the 740's back-up light bulbs is burnt out and I must go change it before it rains. The Greyhound won top honors at the dog show.I'm OK with that.- Tinkerbelle
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Ok well I put in a new fan relay but the fan isn't coming on. Put in a new knock sensor and the 143 code is back, along with check engine light. 2 repairs with no results. But on the plus side, car is licensed and is being driven again.It runs great.
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Well, shoot-I posted a reply yesterday but I don't know where it went. Wish you coulda seen it before you wrote a whole book! Here's the gist: When you asked me if it was getting spark I decided to check for the heck of it. Well, the coil wire had come loose! I stuck it on to the distributor and it started right up! Man, do I feel silly.But I was just so distracted by those stupid intake hoses that I overlooked the obvious. There's no c.e.l. either. Got a little nip and tuck then its off to get an inspection . Today all I did was organize my tools and wash it! I'm so happy I'm gonna wax it next-and get new wiper blades. Beats having my head under the hood. I do have a Volvo friend who can come by and eyeball my intake hoses-he's just been busy. Yeah,I may have even seen you driving around-I'm in Affton. My wagon is gold with an old WMRY bumper sticker on the back.It'll be on the road soon. Poor thing has been in the driveway since March of 2015. But thanks for all your help and advice!
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Hi tinkerbelle!
Happy Munday. Congratulations!
Oh, I can tell you some real Volvo 240 duds on my ends going back to when WMRY was on the air! I used to listen to WMRY occasionally along with KDNA (what became KDHX) and the classical KFUO (FM) and KMOX-AM with Jack Carney ("Around the corner and up your block") though in the 1970s and early 1980s. I liked WMRY as an alternative to K-SHE 95 (94.7) when they'd play the evil or sort of nasty hard rock. (Though enjoyed the bounteaous Yes, Who, Rush, and the like rock music. I had a GE vacuum-tube-powered superheterodyne AM/ FM clock radio I managed to repair in like 1978-79, though the clock motor had failed. St. Louis used to have wonderful radio variety and programming. I don't hear that now. Maybe age. (Though the Seattle stations like KEXP and other Pacifica-style community radio stations hold my interested for music.) KDHX is sometimes okay.
Some duds I'd done include a misaligned a timing belt install a few times, reversed #2 & #3 spark plug wires and though it engine damage I caused on my 1976 242 DL, recently screwed up a water pump install on my 1990 245 DL wagon, and more, mis-positioned fuses, and more. Nothing serious. Just aggravating.
I'm glad it runs after setting for such an interval. Had I known you were in the 'Lou when you first posted, I would have come to help in person with tools and multimeter. I'd not futzed with a living and breathing Bendix Rex / Regina in a long time. Sort of a different beast with the air pressure sensor and no AMM (or MAF).
Well, let me know as you'd like. I can then email you. No longer do I have my email on my brickboard profile. Though easy as it is the brickboard user name and it is a gmail account.
I have to get mine to the inspector, also. Front flexible brake line replacement on the 1990. Should have done that at least four years ago when I had a garage. I have the Motive power bleeder and such. Fun-fun.
Doing this stuff is getting old. Been going on for real since the very early 1980s. Though have been around Volvo autos and tinkered a bit since the early 1970s.
The 164 remains the Volvo model of my dreams.
Well, let me know if you'd like a visitor. Though I may be futzing with one this week at odd times when I can on crackled asphalt with a drug-addled degenerate harassing me at the daytime and knocking on the windows of the rental unit I occupy at 02:45.
Yay, AmeriKa, rewarding repeat criminals. They get welfare also whether repeat Wall Street banker thieves or violent drug offenders like my dear neighbor. The landlord must love the HUD section 4 or 8 markup on the rent. Thus, a retraining order.
Congrats! Let me know.
Thanks,
B.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Hey- nice to know other people struggle with their repairs too!It's easy to screw up a waterpump install on these beasts.It took me and my brother 2 full days to do mine a while back. I think we had to take a 2x4 to leverage it into the proper place so the bolts can go in. Then we struggled with the gasket,not realizing all we had to do is hang it on the studs.(eyes rolling). I don't know how you cope with 3 of these spoiled brats.( mommy my timing belt broke! Mommy my check engine light is on!) etc etc. I almost forgot about this ,though: I still have a massive oil leak-is it the rear main seal? the one between the tranny and engine. I'm NOT doing that repair.Well I guess nobody's gonna learn anything else useful from this thread. I'll conclude by saying: double-check your work-even if you don't think something is wrong-you never know.It took me a week to figure out the coil wire was off. I always say before you start a repair on ANYTHING_first see if it's plugged in! Hey KGV-keep in touch.My e-mail address is on my profile.I'll let you know when my wagon's all legal.
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Oh no! check engine light came on as I was driving it to get it inspected! Did the obd check- no codes.Inspector is gonna check it out-he's always been fair with me.Hope for the best.He said I may have to drive it a couple days for it to go off but how do I do that with no plates? hmmmmm
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Did my reply just end up BEFORE your post? think it did
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Well shoot! Inspection failed-just need a windshield.C.e.l. doesn't matter because of its age.One more hurdle....Guess I'll get a windshield then. I can't stand football but I do love baseball,but that's it for sports. Good riddance Rams. I read a post somewhere about re-tensioning the timing belt after 500-1000 miles. The guy swore by it. I put mine in about 1000 miles before the engine mess.But since the cylinder head swap I'm pretty sure it must have been adjusted since I had to do all that invasive stuff . But isnt' that what the tensioner is for? Isn't it supposed to adjust to the stretching belt? God, can't these cars do ANYthing for themselves? And you adjust the crankshaft too? Wow, your cars are so spoiled! :) Maybe I should take a look at mine. The belt really does seem a bit slack.I remember buying that 22mm or is it 24mm socket so I could turn that thing to find top dead center. That reminds me-I have one of the timing belt cover screws broken off inside,it's the long one on the top left.I got a new one from the dealer.Do you think I can drill that old one out? Or just leave it.It seems to be ok.So many questions-so little time.This thing is gonna be on the road any day now!I'll post a picture if I can figure out how....
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Why MO-state calls it a safety inspection, though mandated by your U.S. Congress.
Though I see automobiles, like the slum lord owner of these hell hole rentals I reside in, with a full width crank through the exterior layer glass, on his maroon Toyota truck. A windshield repair service should have some cheap Chinese glass to fit yours, one would hope. Many windshield replacement services in St. Louis.
One task I'll not ever do for other people ever again is windshield replacement.
No. No crankshaft adjustment. Reset the timing belt tension. As you had to after you reinstalled the timing belt, or draped it back onto the over head cam timing belt gear. Nothing to do with the harmonic balancer crank shaft pulley.
As you saw after removing and before replacing the upper timing belt cover is the timing belt tensioner assembly.
The nut in the middle of the round tensioner rolling thingy. With the engine off, like at an oil change, merely loosen it, let sit for a minute, and re-tighten. The 1997 Volvo 240 Haynes service manual indicates 37 foot pounds of torque. Do not worry about the crankshaft pulley.
Inquire as to windshield replacement.
As for the dash lights, are you certain it is the CEL or Service Reminder light (reminding the operator to change the engine oil)? Please see your owner manual and / or the:
http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1992/1992_740/92740_1_1.html
Though the dash image is sort of small.
Would you want me to visit you in person? I'll email you.
I cannot help you with the windshield.
Any automobile will require care. You assumed ownership of what may have been a severely neglected 1992 Volvo 740 (thankfully without Turbo). So, to get it going requires the investment in time and $ you are applying to the car. Though one hopes you need not make more such undertakings in the care of it, yet at 24 years of age, and I dunno how many miles, you may have more work to do on other systems, yet perhaps, none so severe to repair.
No, my cars are not spoiled. They rot outdoors in the daylight and weather. They appear rather ragged; to my chagrin. I tire of this old Volvo nonsense at times. For one reason or another I am reluctant to care for them, such as the issue with the crazy neighbor with shaved head harassing me for the last year who has threatened my safety in person with witnesses. So, we went to the local Gendarme station yesterday to make a report.
Everything works, more of less, in each Volvo 240 I have. Stops, steers, and goes, all lights work. All emissions controls work. Fluids are clean. Each had to have prior owner abuse and neglect 'undone', though we can't make metal grow (as in the case of the manual transmission in one of them).
At any rate, let me know.
cheers,
Mac Duffy's Buttermilk Tavern.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Boy do those pictures look familiar! Timing marks stand out nicely .Did you paint them on? As I should have,though I thought to myself" I'm never going inside the timing belt cover again". I see what you mean about adjusting the tensioner,but I havent driven it since THE REPAIR .So I guess I'm good for a while. Maybe mid-January? Freezing cold? Or during January Thaw. Yes, I found several windshields. I'd never do it myself or ask anyone to do it because it looks like a major pain and some things are just better left to the professionals. But it'll cost me $199 + tax. Not too bad .'Cept I'd rather take those 2 bills on a shopping trip,oh well. This will be my 2nd windshield replacement. A truck flung a rock at it about 4 months into my 1st replacement. Well,a little history on my 740: Bought it off Brentwood Volvo's back lot 13 yrs ago. Needed a brake block,fuel pump and catalytic converter right off the bat-like $1500. I thought it would be good to go, but then it was od solenoid,gearshift repair,I dont know what all else-I've tried to block it out.I thought it would be like my 85 240 wagon I used to have. This really has been a bad car-you're right-it wasn't taken care of by the previous owner. When my 1st timing belt broke it had 187000 miles and it was the original belt!And yes, thank God it's not a Turbo!.So to defray costs I started doing stuff myself. Anyway... yes its a check engine light again. No code from # 2(111). But from #6 it threw 143 'knock sensor wiring faulty or absent.' Since it's now dark I'll have to look into that when daylight comes. Be careful around that nut-job. People tend to get more riled up when they get a TRO against them.Anyway,thanks for the advice & pictures.One day this Volvo saga will end.Won't it? Tinkerbelle I'd rather be baking pies.......
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Hi tinkerbelle,
Your post on this subject has become sort of a saga for the length with the number of posts we have here.
I found the images using Google image search and linked them to the message you read.
Do you have a repair manual that supports the 1992 Volvo 740? I asked before. I include links to the 700-series manuals on the k-jet.org website earlier in this message thread. The rather complete set of Volvo 200 series manuals or the incomplete 900 series can help where it is the same four cylinder engine. I imagine, yet cannot recall, whether the Volvo factory service manual includes the procedure to reset the timing belt tension.
As you removed the cylinder head, as you say, you would have to loosen the timing belt tensioner nut, press on the timing belt long run to push the tensioner pulley back, and tighten that nut.
Some with mark the timing belt and camshaft timing gear, loosen tension, remove and hold the belt, and use some manner to hold the timing belt so it does not come off the other two (lower) timing belt gears.
After cylinder reinstall, with camshaft timing gear installed, you slip the timing belt back on the camshaft timing belt, properly aligned, and without losing alignment of the belt on the lower to timing belts.
You then use a socket to loose the timing belt tensioner pulley nut.
In the image here, see the large hex nut inside the round pulley at the right most third in the image? The tensioner spring is to the left.
The engine if OFF. The keys are in your pocket or somewhere else.
As you look at the upper plastic timing belt cover on the engine, you will see a protrusion or bump. At the center oh the protrusion or bump is a round black rubber grommet.
You remove the grommet. Loosen the nut, wait a few minutes, and tighten to the aforementioned 37 foot pounds.
The grommet has a split seam and realigns back in the hole. Do not press the grommet so far into the hole as to lose it or it can interfere with the timing belt when the engine runs.
The brickboard.com 700/900/90 FAQ entry on the topic:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSealsBeltsVent.htm#CamBeltAdjustmentAfterInstallation
As for your socket 6 (Bosch EZK ignition) fault code of 1-4-3, faulty knock sensor ...
You may:
- Remove and reconnect the the wire harness connector to the knock sensor
- Remove the wire harness connector and use your multimeter to very continuity and Ohms resistance between the two pins at the knock sensor. A failed knock sensor will usually show no resistance. Though you can check for resistance at the two receiving pins on the knock sensor wire harness connector (to show connection to the Bendix Rex ignition engine control unit (ECU), sometimes called an ICU (ignition control unit or module - ICM).
(I'm unsure the resistance values, my spare knock sensor or two are 50 miles away in a storage locker, waiting go to Fort Collins CO, it would seem, now. Thankfully.)
The brickboard.com 700/900/90 FAQ entry on the topic:
https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm#TestingaKnockSensor
Bendix Regina fuel control, as I see here, does not make use of the knock sensor, unlike the Bosch LH-Jetronic.
An image of location. See the green arrow.
Unclip the wire harness connector.
Loosen the bolt, and without losing the old knock sensor and bolt, remove.
Installation of the new knock sensor is the reverse of removal (in Haynes manual fashion).
Torque to 15 foot pounds. Do not over-torque (over-tighten).
Re attach the knock sensor wire harness connector.
Does that help? Questions?
Thanks.
B.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Hi tinkerbelle,
Thank you.
Yep, oooooph, I can be such an incompetent. Before of after the strong cup of morningtime tea or coffee.
Without a garage, it really sucks to be able to to the heavy work like rear axle or busy (rust) work. I put on a windshield on one car, and while I'd only done maybe less than a dozen, it's my worst windshield install.
So, I keep the timing belt tension and resent tension every oil change while the oil drains and re-torque the tensioner bolt. I'd seen how folks will install a new belt, not reset tension after a 100 or a 1000 miles, and with new belt stretch, the belt slips around one of the timing belt gears. This happened to me after I did a correct install in like the 1980s. No manual says to recheck new timing belt tension, and reset recurringly. (I also do the thing where you grasp the crank pulley and take slack out of the long belt run, ever so slightly. I have no real mechanic's touch anymore, though.)
I dunno how many wasser pumpens I'd installed on overhead valve and overhead cam Volvo redblock engines. Have not ever screwed that up, until the most recent. So, with age arrives ever greater incompetency?
At least you have you brother and friend to help.
I just check OBD codes, watch for unnecessary drippy fluid spots, tire pressure, and such.
Welp, thank you. I'll send you an email someday soon.
Though we hope for a CO or WA state gig. No offense, St. Louis and MO and the midwest have been rather regularly disappointing for me. At least in CO and WA state, you can mostly ignore what makes for disappointment.
While I don't like sports, and how St. Louis would have been better off to keep the NFL Cardinals as the Bidwell family are better citizens than Enos Cranky and his losing again Rams, dunno if I can root for the Bronocs or other AFC team.
Go Seahawks?
Happy Ruby Tuesday. Secureing trim back back onto the 1990 245 li'l red wagon as it all seems to want to fall off, and front flexi-brake lines. These USA S-K line flare wrenches are better than the made in Taiwan junk, yet not as good as my owld S-K line flare wrenches.
Success on the MO state inspection. Something CA, CO, WA, OR, and other out west places don't do. They just do emissions.
Though after seeing nearly an entire exhaust system fall out of a late 1990s Toyota or Nissan or Honda sedan on the I-90 in eastern WA, I can appreciate a state safety inspection in addition to emissions.
Sorry to go on so.
Happy Holidays!
Eggnog Boyeeeeeeee.
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Well, shoot-I posted a reply yesterday but I don't know where it went. Wish you coulda seen it before you wrote a whole book! Here's the gist: When you asked me if it was getting spark I decided to check for the heck of it. Well, the coil wire had come loose! I stuck it on to the distributor and it started right up! Man, do I feel silly.But I was just so distracted by those stupid intake hoses that I overlooked the obvious. There's no c.e.l. either. Got a little nip and tuck then its off to get an inspection . Today all I did was organize my tools and wash it! I'm so happy I'm gonna wax it next-and get new wiper blades. Beats having my head under the hood. I do have a Volvo friend who can come by and eyeball my intake hoses-he's just been busy. Yeah,I may have even seen you driving around-I'm in Affton. My wagon is gold with an old WMRY bumper sticker on the back.It'll be on the road soon. Poor thing has been in the driveway since March of 2015. But thanks for all your help and advice!
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Oh, no worries-I appreciate the help and advice. Ok, so I'm looking at pulling off the intake manifold.That means the fuel rail too because I remember there was one nut I couldn't get a socket on because the rail was in the way.It's ok though.It was just off so it should be a lot easier this time.I bought Victor Reinz gaskets from IPD so as long as I don't damage it I shouldn't need another one.I'll put a new temp sensor in-the one that goes to the ecm.Guess that will have to come from IPD too because my parts store here wants $80 for it!Probably Bosch. Then some proper connectors for that splice job and I should be good and the cel and 123 code should disappear.-right? I have a mult-meter but I don't know how to use it. ;) Guess I better learn!Ok- Ill get started and let you know how it goes. Thanks!
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It may be best to do as you did for your cylinder head replacement. Disconnect battery. Observe safety!
De-pressurize the fuel system. Pull the fuel rail, with injector attached, out of the air intake port.
Some may allow the fuel rail to dangle, connected, over the backside of the engine. Some may fully disconnect the fuel lines (observe safety and prevent contaminants from entering the fuel lines). Gasoline will spill. No open flames and plenty of ventilation!
Proceed with the remaining disassembly to remove the air intake port, gain access to the ECT and effect test, repair, test, and so on.
Indeed, reading up on multimeter use will help you. You probably want to research and learn how to use a multimeter in the various test modes (continuity, resistance (ohms), and volts). You can find an inexpensive digital multimeter from Harbor Freight, a pawn shop that sells tools, or your craigslist (buyer beware!). The multimeter may need a new battery. One that uses a nine volt battery may be best for continuity and resistance checks.
Have a car-repair-savvy family member or friend that can help you? Did someone help you with you cylinder head removal and installation? If you resided in a large and filthy midwestern city with an arches and a baseball cardinals next to the malodorous missouri and mississloppi rivers, I could stop in and help you.
Though, as you learn, you may want to test the wire harness connection between where you cut the wires and the engine control ECU. That is if the ECT you have works. This board and the 700-900-90 FAQ (See FAQ, above) offers info on how to test the ECT while in the cylinder head and when removed and engine control wiring.
Though you may merely need to solder the wire connections that you cut, seal them up. Put all back together, and best hopes it all works.
It's been a little while for me. So others with more recent hands on with the repairs you are doing can offer advice.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
Buttermilk Boy MacDuff (has no buttermilk).
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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OMG I got it started!!! When you asked if it was getting spark I decided to check just for the heck of it .I followed the coil wire to the distributor and it was OFF! Just plugged it back in and it started right up!And it runs sooo much smoother with that new sensor .And still no check engine light. I got distracted by the hoses being off-I;ll have to figure that out later.But for now...it's ready to be inspected-and plated! WOOOOOOOOOO. End of this chapter
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LOL right now- I do indeed reside near the city of Arch and Cardinals,and the great Confluence. !Now you've committed yourself-Ha! No just kidding- I think I can handle it now-I actually found the other temp sensors I took off the old head and since I didnt have a cel on the dash I expect the sensor to be good.Yes ,I did do the cylinder head myself 99%. I had my son help me lift the head out of the engine compartment,and borrowed an impact wrench to loosen the camshaft nut.Other than that...yep.I wasn't planning on doing it myself but my Volvo friend that was gonna do it just wasnt getting around to it so I started taking off hoses,removing the timing belt cover, etc,to get ready .Pretty soon I was like-'ok, you're doing this'.I think if anyone has to do this job they can-as long as you don't have to have it up and running for work Monday! Just learn as you go, and put all the parts in separate ziplock bags and label-make notes,even,because you think you'll remember where that thing goes, but you won't. I will be good to see this project through.I'll let you know what happens-thanks and Go Cardinals!
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