HI there,

Here we are again.
Man it's been a bunch of posts but I have seen more!

Sorry to hear about your AMM "Adventure" not working out but at least you have a spare that is always nice to have around.

I guess you are back to doing the basics of the triangle. Air, fuel, heat, of which, makes things go round and round or up in smoke, depending on needs.
That is, If your are in your man cave or your car. (:-)

You said you went over the ignition system with some new goodies.
How did that turn out?

Do you have spark jumping from the coil wire to a stud on the left front strut the whole time you are cranking the engine over?

I put it up there so I can see it from the drivers seat.
I lay it about one-quarter inch away from the stud with a weight on top of the wire holding it there for me.
On a reasonable dim day, under the hood, you should see a white and reddish to blue spark popping across over to the stud.
To check a plug wire, cap or rotor, you would clamp the plug tight to the engine block someplace and let it be pretty darn dark to see that from inside the car.


Have you ever rolled the crankshaft up to zero degrees and checked the Top Mark of the cam sprocket to be aligned.
At the same time look to have the rotor button, in the distributor, pointing under the terminal under the number one wire?
The timing belt may have moved the basic start point mechanically.

Now after many times of the engine rocking through to a shut down, it might be so far out, it has quit all together.
It appears the car has gone farther down the slippery slope.

If you find all this stuff close enough and working, then there is, only one thing left to do and that's intervene with a surprise party with a middle man in this whole process.

That's the fuel system relay. It commonly fails within itself or gets left hiding against a wall like a stinky little flower that nobody thought about grabbing it by its neck and squeezing!

You will have to physically man-handed him into working some of the connections for you. You need to turn on something, that is not getting invited to play with your party of parts!

Open the relay and tie down the contacts down with something not conductive. I used a shoestring once because I was stranded once downtown and didn't like the other alternative solution the shoes were offering. (:-)

Recently, more or less a fellow boarder used some match sticks to get his car running and now he is trying to understand why it ran.
Now I have to say that worried me, if they still had fire making chemicals on the ends! (:-(

Anyway when you go to crank you should already hear the pumps running.
The injectors should have their power.

So, all we need is the CPS to kick the beach ball down the trail. If the previous things are right the engine should start and run. The pumps will continue to hum even after you turn off the key and the engine dies.

That is why you cannot leave it like this as it draws a lot of power.

This will tell you that there is a problem, with the relay, wiring or a system component, is not turning on that relay.

It could be a faulty ignition switch as rare as they do fail. That is where I left last time as this thing was dropping out or turning off things.
Resulting in Resetting the first stage of the ECU for priming. You runs its little bit of fuel then that something drops the ball.

The OBD light is not going to tell you much with codes, if its flickering on or off like a candle.

In some cases, it has to be driven about ten miles to read simple emissions codes.
I would set that "silly thing" over in the bushes. Or in my brain, it's a hay stack, if I were you!

If this does not start the car, then you missed something previously, or we are about to take a trip to visit the Voo-Doo Land of the Black boxes! The AMM is not one of them, as you rule that out already.

This cars bottom line is, it should be running in limp mode, if nothing else.

I hope some others can fill in any gaps relevant to getting the "triangle of fire" fixed here.
I'm sure I glossed by or over something.

Phil