1988 240 GL wagon. Will not charge by alternator, will take charge from the onboard external charger, or a jump start. There is a small red wire coming from the spade clip on the alternator. It has either broken or got cut somehow. Is this supposed to run to the sensor that is in the side of the block just ahead of the oil filter? The wire coming out of this sensor is not connected to anything either, so I assume that the two should be joined. If so, is this a possible reason for my battery not staying charged?
On a different topic, my mileage is in the low teens. I know that 225,000 miles is a lot to ask of any car, and this car certainly has been a good car. The exhaust is very smelly, as in motorists behind me can smell it with the their windows rolled up. The catalytic convertor has been hollowed out, there is a slight leak at the junction of the header/down pipe, and the tubing from the heat shield to the air box has been patched up but probably leaks some still. Any/all of these factors contributing to my mileage woes and smelly exhaust?
Thanks for any responses. Vio el Vio!

Have you checked battery voltage with the engine running?

Double check the grounding strap to the alternator. It should be a larger/thick blue wire, short and connecting from the body of the alternator to a bolt on the motor mount. The alternator is isolated mechanically and electrically with the 3 rubber bushings, so if it doesn't have a good ground connection it won't charge even with all the other wires correctly connected. It may become corroded from exposure to road de-icers/chemicals and is also subject to mechanical vibration
that may crack one of the ring terminals.

Don't forget to disconnect the battery before working on and around the alternator unless you want the 4th of July to come early.

.

--
'80 242, '82 245 'worktruk', '83 244 Turbo, 83' 242 'volcamino' + a massive dodge van

Sounds like you are running "rich." Likely culprits are the air mass meter and coolant temperature sensor.

Thanks for the responses. Still, it seems that nobody is directly answering my basic query; is the no charge issue "likely" due to the wires that are cut? I'll fix them in a prioritized order, but first things first. Coolant sensor is on a spade connector, which is a little loose and wiggly, I'll crimp it down and see that helps. Connection aside, if it's the sensor I guess I'll have to replace it. The AMM is from a used background, but is known have been working OK, or so the story goes...

Did you replace the small red wire, if not the alternator will not work?

I have not had time just yet to replace the wire. it will be my first thing to do. I have the luxury of using a backup car until rolling again. I'll post when it is charging again. thank you!

HA!
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.

The red exciter wire runs from the back of the alternator to the battery light in the cluster. The oil pressure light sender is the sensor you refer to and has a black wire attached to it. Both wires go yo the cluster through the large grey connector at the center of the firewall. Run new wires from the alternator and oil pressure sender to the grey connector and splice them onto the appropriate wire.

Wires can be run on the passenger fender well to the firewall to keep things need and organized.
Dan

Run the wires down to and across the back side of the cross member. Then up the fender, through the tower, and back to the firewall.

It actually runs to the charging light on the dash. Called the exciter wire:

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalStarting.htm#NoJuicefromAlternatorNotCharging
--
Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/

and

http://www.volvowiringdiagrams.com/?dir=
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.