Hi Folks,

I searched through the forum and all over the interwebs and am still scratching my head. I picked up a new to me 1964 Amazon wagon and I'm trying to dial it in. One thing I'm dealing with is a pcv system that seems to combine different eras.

My valve cover has the cap to the front and it is vented with a hose with a pcv valve to the intake. It also has a road tube. Looking through all the info here, it seems as if a previous owner put a later intake manifold on the car?

I completely removed and cleaned everything... carbs, intake/exhaust manifold, and put all new gaskets in place. I'm having a bear of a time trying to dial in the carbs and am getting sputtering under acceleration. Ignition system is new, timing is good (10* at idle), pertronix installed, new plugs, wires.

should my manifold not have the nipple for the pcv?

Thanks in advance for any help.
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1965 220 Amazon wagon (4-door)

Set it up as the early simpler system. Basic road tube, basic cap with no vent tube, no inlet/outlets on the inlet manifold except the pipe for a servo if you have one. If no servo, fit a plug to the hole if there isn't one (alloy inlet, servo fitting hole at front) Road tube is out, and standard filler cap is in, as far as crankcase ventilation flow goes.

thanks!

Okay, a follow up. As the car was running yesterday I did note that air was coming out of both the cap hole and the road tube. Does that change on acceleration and air should be sucked in through the oil cap? I did disassemble and clean out the cap.

Also, excuse my ignorance, what is meant by servo?

Thanks,
Greg
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1965 220 Amazon wagon (4-door)

Servo would be brake booster. Larry

Close off the vac connection on the manifold and leave the lower crankcase vent open, or put a hose venting down on it, open to atmosphere.

Chances are it's not the pcv that's giving you problems. I had a bit of a chunk of something in my repeatedly cleaned jets cloggin things up. New jets fixed the problem altogether.

These are not really sensitive engines, IMO. Actually sounds like a spark timing issue to me. I still run points with the original coil no problem. Timing 7BTDC at idle up to 28 BTDC at 3k, (I think). 22 mpg, not great but After resurrecting it from sludge I've giving it time to shake out.

Once I got it sorted, I put a standard PCV, (fat end down) between the crank vent and the manifold, and used a vented filler cap to route a vent line to the air cleaner cover. At idle, it was obvious there was crank vapor coming out of the vent cap.

A standard (bad, mistaken) tweak to old engines was to rich them up. It makes them easier to start, but that's about it. It cokes up the rings and sludges up everything else. I'm getting mine to the point where I can run it hard and hot to get things blown out without resorting to water spray or seafoam.
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MPergiel, Walker, MI

Thanks for the detailed response! Ill give that a shot. I'll probably remove the bowls and replace the little brass pieces too.

Separately, I was watching the fuel as it flowed through the clear filter i put in….I have to say it doesn't seem like a very robust stream of fuel. The filter was also not full as the the car was idling. Revving didn't do a whole lot to increase the flow either. What should the flow look like?

Cheers,
Greg
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1965 220 Amazon wagon (4-door)

If there is fuel in the bowls then fuel is probably okay. It's NOT a pressurized fuel injection system. A weedly little stream is fine. Pull the jets and clean them throughly. If you have messed with the jet adjuster screws you're gonna have to read up on tuning SU's. Throwing parts at it is guessing.

90% of all "fuel" problems are ignition problems, in my experience.
IDK if you need a different coil for the pertronix. If you are running the original coil you might try putting points back in it.

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MPergiel, Walker, MI

I did have a weedy little stream and had completely disassembled the carbs previously to clean up years of sitting. Starting over I guess. Anyhow, I removed the fuel pump and looked at the diaphragm..definitely dry with light cracking on close inspection. Enough to not provide correct flow? Maybe, maybe not.

I'm feeling it's fuel delivery or carbs. I love the pertronix that I put in my vw bus…night and day performance improvement. Spark is really good.

Like you said, I'm absorbing a lot of carb info and ordered up a unison. Here's something interesting while researching that I haven't seen anywhere else. When you check the mixture by lifting the carb piston and listen to the revs, you will then adjust the other carb! Test the front, you then adjust the rear based on what you find. Seems bazaar, can anyone else confirm this? Here's where I read it: (see page 4 of the article)

http://www.jag-lovers.org/xk-lovers/library/carbs_bishop/su_carb_adjusting.pdf



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1965 220 Amazon wagon (4-door)