Quote:
Found a good price here.
-http://m.lowes.com/pd/Oregon-Manual-Grease-Gun/1112145-


That's the one! And it is a very good price; I paid about $10.

For those with a larger grease gun the needle fitting is a no-brainer but since I didn't own a grease gun this little guy was perfect.

Use a sharp probe to push in the ball in the center of the fitting on the door before you use for the first time.

If the grease inisde the hinge has hardened, you may have trouble getting it to flow. Some use heat (as previously described in this thread) and some squirt solvent through the hole in the zerk.

It took my entire weight leaning against the gun but I was able to get all my doors to flow grease without any special treatment, so hopefully you will too.

And as has been described, after a few days try it again. And a few days after that wipe up as much of the overflow as you can.

You will be amazed at how smooth the doors work afterwards. And when you close them they sound like a bank vault.

-Tom in Ventura

Hi Fred,

If you google "grease needle" you'll find them. I've had it much too long to remember where I purchased it. The tip moves the ball in the zerk fitting.

My oil change routine includes the flame trap plumbing, hinge lube; door and hood, and now a check of the in-tank fuel pump. I don't think there's any other way I could remember to do it.

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

"To make anything interesting you simply have to look at it long enough." -Gustave Flaubert

Id not seen the use of a grease fun, and did not know the door hinge plate included zirks.

WD-40 may get it going in a pinch, like stuck hood hinges as Klaus mentions.

White lithium grease seems to have some staying power. I use the spray and have a tub that's rather used up. (Yet forgets the nitrile gloves every time.)

So, what kind of grease or lube for what door, trunk or door hinges or latch?

What of the latches and like mechanisms inside the door that require lubrication (else, you door won't latch closed to stay closed on a dark Winter evening). The window lift mechanism.

The front seats and the slide back and forth thingy as you hold the bar up. The front seats can get difficult to move front- and rearward.

Rear hatch hinges with grease or lube that does not attack the (probably replaced by now) wiring?

I have a ball point needed tip for my grease gun, so with Art's images, I'll give that a whirl someday.

Also, on the door hinges, you can apply grease (in the era before I knew these were Zirks, and LH-Jet is batch, not sequential, injection) yet it can get dirty around the door hinges. You probably want to keep the hinges clean, and full of clean grease. Though it'd dirty up, catching stuff, as you motor about in the 240 (or other rear wheel drive Volvo).

Thanks.
--
Something, something, something, something ....

Please note the 2nd pic... those 2 wheels...they need to be lubed too. If not the spring that they toggle on that holds the door in check when you open it will snap off.

The door will swing wild and free and crack the steel where the hinge is mounted on the door. If that spring breaks you'll have to replace the entire hinge.


Fluid Film---get it at your John Deere Outlet
Keeping Farm Machines moving.

A Penetrating LUBE for all uses. Also good for spraying into rocker panels and wheel wells...just pop out those rubber plugs and spray away.

www.fluid-film.com/applications/automotive/