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Hiya Uncle oldduke,
What Uncle Art says here.
I'd bought belts and parts for from ... in Michigan, what seems not so remote, as of yesterday, thankfully (want to live in the Michigan UP):
http://www.kenselectronics.com/
Used to purchase replacement motors from the manufacturer, or from the motor OEM maker, like in the older Mitsubishi Volvo radios. They can go, yet usually is a slipping well-stretched or stiff belt in the cassette and / or dry lubricants.
A Jeweler's Loupe can help with what Art mentions here for finding cracked solder welds from years of vibration, varying temps, and pounding the, not at fault Volvo, dashboard for a lousy workplace manager ... reflowing solder where fractures form from ...
In my 1992 240 GL. Three times repaired the CD-Mechanism. Sucks again. Get another used Sony eBay, junkyard, or *gulp* pawn shop. Receives fine with new aerial, when gotten. Rehabbed Volvo power aerial and after-market made in China aerial both failed. Regular whip aerial mast works best.
At the age of the radios and adjcent connected components, you get into a host of other components issues, like re-habbing your Pioneer SX-9000 (wish I had, settles on the SX-1500) or Panasonic RX-1930 personal portable radio. In the dashboard space heat and cold, all electrolytic and some mica capacitors (as used in tone control) may need replacement. Lube the capstans and pinch roller assemblies for tape transport and other sintered metal bearings through which some rotating shaft, well, rotates. You get into other discrete components that fail like transistors or diodes from age of spurious voltages. (Disconnect the battery and other bits when someone, not you, welds on the exhaust; and don't let them weld the exhaust.)
What happened to the TD-613 in my 1991 grey 240 sedan. I took the thing apart and futzed with it once and again. Had the code to get it to work and each time after power disconnect. Remains in the original owner manual. When it did work, the TD-613 was not very powerful, was a better radio then tape player, but that worked well when it did. I got tired of it. That is an Alpine design radio, with the head unit and separate amp. The amp under the ashtray suffers from the same issues and is only a 4 x 20 max watts. You'll need to replace the big caps that support the power out transistors to the speakers. I have a bunch of these amps, and, well, electrolytic caps dessicate, unless they leak first.
It makes better sense and value, if preserving that 100 series back to PV 444, to use the mentioned and reference auto radio restore service, if they service something so modern as the older mitsu and later Alpine in 200/700. You get sort of ol skool modern, with 2.5 VDC premap, in the total of four years of 940 (wish it went to 1998 in N. America, dag nabbit).
Factory from 1973 164. Same model used in P1800 series. Works, yet needs caps, and such.
I was able to wire in a CD Player with a made-up patch cord and used that for some years yet not much for radio reception in the 1991 240. The CD sound was nice and had a fuller sound in the 1991 240 with the infinity speakers.
The factory speakers are also not so good. The 1991+ sedan HT-204 front and HT-168 rear door speakers sort of suck. (Rear hat shelf speakers are best. Mounting sort of sucks for after market. I replaced the door speakers front and rear with Infinity 4" speakers in like 2002 or 2004. With the TD-613, tremendous improvement. I was not so driven to preserve the factory installed stereo look. Like vintage stereo rehab, I have, and used to have, speaker cabinets, yet replaced the drivers with the same diameter / depth or went to a larger diameter.
The 240 wagon, like 700/900 wagon has the rear speakers in the rear doors and do nothing for stereo separation. I have a few sets of the older 245 C-pillar factory speakers. The cones weather and can fail, but they add volume and are a better position for stereo separation than the bottom of the rear doors. 700/900 wagon and sedan has a better, high position on the rear doors, so that helps. The 245 C-pillar speaker insert works fine with thin 4" speakers. So long as the rear seat back swings freely without contacting the speaker as you raise and lower the seat from 245 five passenger to 245 cargo mode. Wagonpower!
HT-204 speaker housing in my l'il red 1990 240 Dl wagon. Barge cement repaired Dynaudio speaker with tweeter as an upgrade, versus the whizzer cone, for awhile.
Yet the 240/740/940 interiors, save for, by modern standards, more than typical engine and road noise, is acoustically very good to excellent. Yet the factory radios were not so good. Replacing the the speakers helped, as it did in my 1975 244 DL in early 1986, yet had to stuff in a Panasonic Am/Fm cassette made in 1979. I got the factory AM radio to work, again, yet did not reinstall it. I put some Jensen 5" speakers in the door. The holes and grilles were already there when I bought the 1975 244 DL in August 1985.
Mounted.
Art mentions entering a Concours d'Elegance with your beloved and probably not showroom floor original rear wheel drive Volvo. (The radio stereo issue also plagues older FWD Volvo autos.)
Dynaudio did not work so well over time. Prior owner screwed up inner door cards, also warped from years of failed exterior windows scrapers. Another temporary solution for the now water-pump replacement needin' l'il red 1990 240 Dl wagon
Begs the question (off topic, off a topic), why not a Concours d'Everyday Driver for the rest of us? Our Saab, VW/Audi, even BMW, Renault, and like owld owner / caretaker / operator siblings would enjoy some spectator gawking with some brisket simmering and ales as nosh and beverage refresh in your town as a fun thing to do. Dents, worn seats, and all.
I also despise, as again Art points out with his daughter's 240, these new radios with such illumination as one could see it from space. Yet they have they have better power and modern features (do I need wireless remote control, too?), and the various wire harness conversion adapters to the factory harness make it easy. Installing after market speakers into 700/900 is easier. Volvo speakers (are they Dynaudio speakers> got pretty ok and resonant in the mid 1990s, with bigger, better magnets and materials on the same quasi-5.25" basket frame. They serve as door woofers with the dash mount tweeter / midrange array on 900 and 850. I don't want to cut my 240 dash for such.
I have boxes of Volvo radios, amps, and speakers and wire harness parts. The funky Dynaudio speakers. As well as more modern ones.
Only part of my Volvo radio head unit collection. Most work okay.
Only part of my Volvo radio amp collection. Most work okay.
So, after futzing and giving up, and futzing and giving up. With uneven results .....
- A used CD player from a salvage yard. I'm invested in Sony, with the Sony CD-receiver wire harness adapter with Sony connector in the radio bay, soldered to the factory harness. Easy to swap out the CD / Radio head unit. Preserved the factory harness. (Though 1989 to 1981/1982 wire harness bits had the crappy insulation like in my 1990 red wagon, as it shorted the power amp out left side.) The used Sony radio from the early mid 2000s are not so brightly illuminated, with removable faceplate so it does not scream "steal me please" when you live in the suburban slums like I do and did.
- I'd tried to rehab some of the Volvo radios, and it becomes something requiring more resolve, with all the work one must do to keep the Volvo safely rolling. I've put non-240 Volvo branded radios in 240 from single din 700/900, yet these usually failed or performance was not much improvement. They are old, also, and tape cassette mechanism, early to mid 1990s CD mechanism, and discrete performance failure require more resolved, and proper workspace, and time, and tools to do the work. Got the money, use a vintage auto radio restoration service, already aforementioned in the last few month's worth of brickboard RWD indexes (indices? English spell check from a Finnish-made web browser.) I can't afford the service. Though I also would like a PV-544 or 164. Heck, my 1979 242 GT back would be nice.
The failing keypads in the 700/900 head units are a bother. I don't have the humor.
TD-6141 and remote EQ connected to four Volvo HT-161 three way speaker enclosures. 12 VDC power supply. Sounded good!
Volvo HT-161 three-way speakers on modern living room furniture
Detail. Replaced all four 5.25" pincushion woofers. In one pair, replaced tweeter and midrange drivers. Cross-overs inside works alright. Big electrolytic caps on cross over PC board. Seem to be okay. Sounds good connected to TD-TD-6141 and the Technics SA-290 receiver amp.
- On 700/900 and 800, you can reuse the factory speaker grille with a modern, efficient speaker that seals the speaker hole for proper mount and resonance. 240 makes this so difficult with the profile inner panel door cards. Yet solution abound here on this board as we've written and read. The oldest door cards on 240, that are flat like 140/160, are easier to install.
Junkyard Alpine 5.25" speaker secured to rear hat shelf (not sheet steel, below)
Same, other side. See dark square from factory speaker mount (forgets model number). Nuts / washer secure rear hat shelf to sheet metal to prevent vibration.
Junkyard 4" speaker in 1992 240 door. Trim speaker mount and speaker cover grill material away to fit door card profile. Secured to door card only. No contact with sheet metal, beneath. Sealed mount hole and resonates perfectly.
Same, other side. Driven by Sony receiver above. Mean to replace with modest, used Sony CD receiver, sometime.
Infinity speaker in passenger side front door of 1991 240 sedan installed in 2002 or so. Trimmed (Dremel & File) speaker mount and grille to fit 240 inner door card profile. Sealed mount hole and resonates perfectly. Driven by newer Sony CD-receiver than one shown above.
Then you could mate the preamp out head units on 700/900 to a more modern amp that can take the old skool preamp DC voltages (much higher than the modern stuff today, some like that with air shocks to low ride on.) Yet you still have to futz with an old Volvo factory head unit. Ebay is replete with these. Yet they are still old.
So, I dunno. It's up to you. I'd like to keep it original made and owned in Sweden Volvo rear wheel drive. I really like the look of it all when original. Yet sort of modern speakers and a CD Receiver able to play mp3s and home made CD-audio is an improvement. Though the nearly hundreds of tape cassettes I have still play okay.
I should sell or give away all the Volvo audio karp I have to you folks that want it and can rehab it and such.
Got rid of the power aerial. They all suck. A solid whip mast aerial works best. Dash mount OEM toggle switch is groovy. For TransWarp Drive.
If you want to go OEM, if even from a different model Volvo, have redundant models, get it rehabbed where needed for where items. Quality work on the wire harness and connections. Yet for speakers, you can keep the factory grilles yet newer, modern speakers to fit may be best. Easier on 700/900/800 ++.
A good deal harder in 240. And I wanted CD. You could use a single DIN 700/900 (maybe 850) head unit below with remote amp, with EQ above, or head unit in the upper bay with more powerful Volvo (Alpine / Mitsu) remote amp. Have spares and rehab them. Caps, solder joints. Enhance grounds. And preserve the factory harness (so long as it does not deteriorate.
Yet with the good Volvo passenger compartment good acoustics and enough volume to get over road and engine / drive line noise, worth it no matter what way you go.
http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114932
I like vacuum tubes, through. Have boxes of these, yet not much to install them into.
Hope that helps.
Sorry to go on so.
MacDuff.
--
General Colin Powell for President! (Or we'll take the Senator from Vermont today. Thanks to Michigan. No more NEO Wall Street, please.)
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