Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 2/2026(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 7/2013 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

the old 245 clutch job trick 200

hi sages who have actually done a clutch job on a late model 240- always prefer to plan and lay out a major job before it becomes urgent. have done many clutch jobs on rwd american tanks. my 92 245 with the m47 is running fine now but we all know how quick that can change. seeking your recommendations on the inevitable clutch replacement: 1. how do you disconnect the shifter linkage from the m47? 2. should the clutch fork be replaced even if it looks ok? 3. if flywheel looks ok, no gouges or cracks should it be replaced or just resurfaced? 4. understand from sages here that behind the flywheel there is an oil seal for the cam shaft end . is replacing it one hellacious job or should i leave it alone? 5.have looked all over the m47 which works and shifts fine and has no leaks but does have 241k- knowing that parts, internal repairs and junkyard replacements are really tough on this trans do you recommend any maintenance while it is on the floor? plan would be to replace the pressure plate, clutch plate, release bearing and pilot bearing. your advice may prevent me from being held up(trip delay and shysters) late one night on tobacco road. thanks tons oldduke








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    the old 245 clutch job trick 200

    As long as the trans is out, that would be a great time to replace the crank position sensor, which is a BUGGER to replace with the trans in place, even if it's working. Some day it won't work anymore.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    the old 245 clutch job trick 200

    When I did this job with an M46, I replaced the disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. The flywheel was resurfaced and we put in a new rear main seal, because to get to the seal you must remove the transmission (we were already "in the neighborhood".). We also replaced the input shaft bearing in the M46, the transmission mounts and the center carrier bearing. This would not apply to your M47, but I pulled the OD solenoid, cleaned it, and rewired everything as well.

    Do as much as you can, or as much as is needed, while you have everything taken apart.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    the old 245 clutch job trick 200

    1. the is an inset set screw you remove CAREFULLY using a proper fitting bit

    2. not really

    3. no

    4. its on the crankshaft and is quite simple to replace once the flywheel is removed, you're a fool if you get that far and do not replace it

    5. i normally drain the fluid and check for accumulated metal sludge stuck to the magnet drain plug. then refill with 2 quarts of redline fluid which is easier with the box lying on your bench.








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      the old 245 clutch job trick 200

      thanks trich- will remember your advice. didnt know there was a magnetic drain plug on the trans like on the oil pan drain. so flywheel and fork should not be a problem . does the crankshaft oil seal just pry out and a new one press in? wont skip that step. regards oldduke







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.