Battery dead this morning; got it charged. Batt back in car; started car... warning lights blink in and out.

Read a variety of reasons for this. One that made sense was a scuffed/torn harness allowing a short. So I pulled the wire from the alt out and under the car to examine. No prob.

It was the regulator on the alternator. I had an extra used one, and that did the trick.

Moral. Go for the small tbings first. Pulling the wire was just extra work.

At least it is clean now!

😊

--
"Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '94 940T (400K+), 92 245 (250K+K)

Occam's Razor I think this is called.

A friend acquired a non-running 240 this year. After replacing the CPS I happened to notice the burnt plastic on the 25-amp fuse holder ....
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240 drivers / parts cars - JH, Ohio

After walking the guy I gave my 1979 245 wagon through the ignition replacement procedure over the phone...for about an hour...still would not start.

Me: "Are you sure you pulled that fuse # (think it was 8) and looked at to verify it was good?"

Painter with one remaining brain cell: "Yeah, but if you will shut up about it and help me I will do it agai...s#$t the end just fell off the fuse."

In a 240, about 70% of your electrical/no-start issue can be traced back tot he fuses until you do a full fusebox service.

"In a 240, about 70% of your electrical/no-start issue can be traced back tot he fuses until you do a full fusebox service."

And in about 70% of the 240s* still on the road, you can start, run, and if you ignore safety, can drive across town with not one fuse in the panel.

*86-90 I might be wrong about the 70% figure, thinking today the production bubble in 87 has been balanced by the refinement of the 91-93.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

A clear conscience is usually the sign of a bad memory.

Performed a full fuse box scrub and clean on the 1990 240 DL li'l red wagon and the 1991 240 sedan.

A lot of the crusty stuff at the fuse ends on the 1990. A small brass wire brush and a rat tail file. The same for the opposite (wire harness side). Carefully pull the conductor, inspect the termination contacts. A little dab of the anti-corrosive, and all slides back together. Very nice!

The dielectric like DeOxIt or silicon grease like the SuberLube! On the SuperLube tube, the labels describes the dielectric qualities.

Don't use a conductive anti-corrosive like NoOX or DeOx or even Lithium grease.

OMG do they run SO much better after a fuse box scrub and lube!

Happy Friday!

St. Louis Style Pizza (Imo's, Cecil Whittaker's, Farotto's, Joe Boccardi's ....).
--
Volvo 164: The Mightiest, most Powerful, most Beautiful Volvo Automobile Forever

"A lot of the crusty stuff at the fuse ends on the 1990. A small brass wire brush and a rat tail file. The same for the opposite (wire harness side). Carefully pull the conductor, inspect the termination contacts. A little dab of the anti-corrosive, and all slides back together. Very nice!"

If you replace all of the fuses with brass or copper fuses, the crusty stuff will cease to form.

"The dielectric like DeOxIt or silicon grease like the SuberLube! On the SuperLube tube, the labels describes the dielectric qualities."

The dielectric property of the silicon grease is of no importance whatever in this application.

"Don't use a conductive anti-corrosive like NoOX or DeOx or even Lithium grease."

No reason not to use any kind of grease which will inhibit moisture ingress, but the stuff sold for aluminum house wiring is not needed if you are not using aluminum fuses.

"OMG do they run SO much better after a fuse box scrub and lube!"

Kitty, my car runs so much better after I clean the brake dust from the front wheels.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!

Uncle Art,

The fuses I pulled out were brass or copper or the tinned (?) copper.

I have a collection of the glass Bussmann brand fuses with the conical tips that I installed. The fuse box door is the 1993 fuse box legend, not 1990 on the li'l red 1990 240 DL wagon. Some fuse values were wrong, so I used the fuse box legend from the Volvo wiring diagrams PDF.

I should not use Bussman fuses, then? I'll guess these are chrome or nickel plate? I do see these in copper alloy fuse holders in other low voltage applications.

NO-OX-ID from Sanchem and DE-OX-ID are conductive. I'd rather not futz up a connection if I'm a little too generous on the application during a fuse box service.

I clean the wheels at the self-service car wash when I do. The Volvo OEM brake pads do leave quite some dust on the beauty rings on the steelie wheel. Though one wheel is silver, the other three are black on the 1990 wagon. Just want to get off the Corona wheels on the 1992 240 green sedan and back into steelies. Nice to have the six winter tires, though.

The SuperLube also works well at the taillight circuit boards where the bulb holder contacts meet the copper contact on the circuit board. I had to spend some time with some Goop RV (UV resist) to seal the taillight, which had cracked just above the lower, outer brake light bulb, and the red lens, for the usual reason. So far, so good. Don't get grease on the bulb, of course.

Thanks,

Duffed.
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Volvo 164: The Mightiest, most Powerful, most Beautiful Volvo Automobile Forever

"Kitty, my car runs so much better after I clean the brake dust from the front wheels."

This is why I have black steel wheels (usually). No need to clean them.