I'd tend to agree with Matt's thoughts regarding lubing or not lubing the tapered surface. I think the theory here is that the woodruff key is mostly just for assembly alignment (and as a fail safe), and the nut is just there to pull the tapered drum onto the tapered axle shaft into an interference fit, the one stretched onto the other. Once installed like that, you should be able to take the key out (if there was room) and take the nut off, and drive around for years. The drum being held on merely by that interference fit. If somehow the hub came loose (dragging brake getting the hub smouldering hot?) then the key and nut would keep it on. I *think* (but could certainly be wrong) that putting grease or anti-seize on the taper would lessen that effectiveness of that interference fit, and make the whole set up much more reliant on the key and nut. I don't have much of a track record to say though, just an anecdotal evidence of my single old '63 PV (closing in on owning it for 20 years).

I also have the same experience with a little time taking an incredibly stubborn hub off. When I forst got my PV it had sat for 17 years, prior to that one of the rear brakes had stuck on and it was limped home. That overheated rear brake was incredibly difficult to remove. I soaked it with PBLaster. I got a huge puller and hammered it on tight. Heated the hub. Hammered it even tighter. Heated it. More PBLaster. Got a bigger hammer. Hammered it as hard as I physically could Nothing at all. Hammered it until I was about to rage out and put the hammer through the window or something, and finally decided I just needed to walk away from it and cool my head off some, red mist not being a particularly useful mechaniching skill. Several hours later, BANG, sounded just like a gunshot.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)