A new timing belt stretches after install.
Best to reset the timing belt tension several times, within the first few hundred miles after install.
Though a better quality belt, like ContiTech, probably stretches less than other vendor timing belts.
I also reset the timing belt tension at each oil change. Simple to do.
Though if the t-belt skips a tooth or two around a camshaft cog, the red-block engine would exhibit the 'about to catch before running behavior' if not too many t-belt tooth alignment is not off too much. Unless skipped on the smaller crankshaft t-belt pulley.
Else, follow all recommendations you have here on failed fuses. Consider corrosion where the fuse contacts meet the fuse holder at the in-engine bay 25-AMP fuel injection system fuse (though the ECUs have power as you can read the OBD codes), though these failures begin as intermittent failures, usually. And I forget that sometimes. If intermittent at the 25-AMP fuse in engine bay fuse, any fault codes may be lost as the ECUs lose power, resetting to 1-1-1 in socket 2 and 6.
As you are able to access the OBD codes in socket 2 (LH-Jet fuel) and socket 6 (EZK spark ignition and EGR if fitted), check the white fuel injection relay for fault, located on the firewall and under the glove box. The high tension side, as we know, can form fractures from years heat around the relay.
Fuse #4 protect power from the in-tank fuel pump.
May want to jumper the fuel injection relay socket to verify both fuel pumps run. See:
http://cleanflametrap.com/transferPump.htm
Courtesy of Art B.
If no OBD fault codes in sockets 2 (fuel) and 6 (ignition), maybe an ignition power stage fault? (Located on inner fender as the side of the battery nearest the inner fender. Corrosion at the connector, or, if the heat sink compound failed, the power IC has failed. Keep spares! No fault codes for a failed or malfunctioning power stage.)
Yet, if the crank shaft speed sensor (engine position sensor) has a fault that formed instantly, shutting off the engine, an OBD code may not have been set. The ECUs can sometimes be slow setting a fault code in spite of poor engine performance.
When do you hear hissing if the engine is not running? Did you hear a hissing when the red-block engine was running before? The hose between the AMM/MAF out to the throttle body or other vacuum line leak around the idle control motor. Or your air intake port gasket is dried and fried, requiring replacement.
Hope that helps.
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