The car has needed a new compressor for a while, and I finally found the time today to swap in a new one (Volvo OE, NOS). I am also replacing the bushings, washers and valve.

Although the new compressor appears to be identical to the old one, the accumulator-to-compressor hose connection is not lining up AND there is absolutely no slack in the Crank/AC belt - I had to really crank to get it on.

I think I have installed the compressor incorrectly, but I don't see how. Pictures below. Any pointers/help is appreciated. I'm trying to get this done so I can get the car back in service by Monday.

Thanks!


Here is the old and new compressor - same model numbers:



Here you can see the hose is not lining up:



Here are some installation pics:





And if I connect the hose, here is what it looks like. I cannot secure it in the bracket across the top of the engine:

Quick update.

I had the system checked and charged by a good local indy shop. Everything is working well. It was almost 90s in the late afternoon when I picked it up and the idle performance was great - nice and cold on the slow 8 mile commute back home in traffic.

Thanks again everyone for the help on the pulleys and accumulator.

i'm having issues with my tensioner on my 93' 240 wagon compressor. i've got the bolt all the way in but it still doesn't look like anything is tightening up.

the Prev. owner took the A/C belt and P.S. belt off and i'm trying to get it all set up again. any ideas.

i backed the bolt out all the way then all the way back in and it doesn't seem to do anything...

Hi,

Study how the compressor is mounted to the engine. Some are mounted via rubber bushings which allow adjustment movements and some are directly mounted. You need to loosen these directly mounted bolts to enable adjustments (other than your tensioner lock bolt only).

Just imagine if your alternator is directly mounted to the engine bracket without those rubber bushings and you need to loosen all these bolts to enable adjustment. The same applies to compressor.

Regards,
Amarin.

Thank you all for the quick replies. Amarin's detailed instructions are far more than I had time for and equipment today, so I opted for some longer belts and that allowed everything to line up.

I installed a 967mm for the Crank/AC and left the 838mm on the PS/AC. There was plenty of room for adjustment and now the top AC hose fits just fine. The car is now ready for service tomorrow, just no AC yet.

I want to find a new bearing and install the correct pulley from the old compressor, so that search begins tonight. It will be easy to pull the new compressor out for the pulley swap as long as I don't charge the system first.

I also ran into a problem with the accumulator, but I'll post that in a new thread.

Awesome help - thank you!

You may recharge the system after being done with the belts and accumulator fittings (I posted a reply there) if you wish to use the AC immediately. Just take note of the cooling performance during idle. If your climate is not warm enough you may escape doing the pulley swap.

Because your AC system is the CCOT type (there's accumulator present) the system's head pressure (high side pressure) is largely determined by the compressor's RPM. That's why the drive ratio is important. The orifice tube just sits there doing nothing active to regulate the head pressure unlike a TXV (thermal expansion valve) system. In TXV system slight pulley differences might not show noticeable cooling drop.

You know what to do next if idle cooling performance is not that satisfactory.

Good luck,
Amarin.

"And if I connect the hose, here is what it looks like. I cannot secure it in the bracket across the top of the engine:"
If you mean the semi-circular bracket that holds the hose and not the bracket that holds the compressor, seems to be a minor problem as the hose is rubber in that area and flexible. If you can't flex it into the bracket, you can zip-tie it to the bracket.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.

Hi,

From your 2nd photo looks like your compressor suction port is located about 1.5 inch inwards towards the engine than the hose. You may need to install a "longer" AC belt so that the compressor swings outwards to meet the hose.

Check if the length of your AC belt (looks new) is same as old belt. Otherwise you may improvise by getting a "longer" belt. This will change the compressor's orientation to the PS pump also.

I encountered this problem before when I wrongly ordered the AC belt size on my 940.

Regards,
Amarin.

Edit: Otherwise you may try to install the hose 180 degrees (half turn) first on the compressor, make sure its clear of any engine parts, tighten its nuts then install the hose's other end at the accumulator. From the photos this looks possible. I'm guessing here. Check that it clears the air intake hose later. Sometimes it may not be practical to order another belt at same time.

I did not replace the belt - it is about a year old and the same one I was using previously. I purchased it from IPD and was the right length with the old compressor installed. I had about 1.5 inches of adjustment and now I have nothing.

It's the Conitech AVX 13 x 938

I cannot imagine that installing new bushings would move it so far. They were not that far worn. Maybe someone has a different experience.

Any other pics that would help? Let me know.

Thanks again!

Then another thing is possible --> the pulley size is bigger on the new compressor than the old.

Another look at the photos shows that the clutch plate on the old compressor is flush at its outer diameter with the old pulley whereas the new one doesn't. Measuring pulley diameter would confirm this.

You may either need to get a longer belt (a 13 x 975 used in 900 series) or transfer the old pulley to your new compressor. Of these two I would recommend transferring the old pulley as the drive ratio is not the same. With bigger compressor pulley your AC performance would underperform at idle due to slower turning.

Good luck,
Amarin.

Bingo - I think you hit it. Thank you! Agree on swapping the pulleys. i'll measure this morning, but I'm fairly certain from the picture that this is likely the problem.

I did a quick search of the part number on the new compressor (6841207) and the results returned a lot of entries with Volvo 900 series. I did not see one with 200.

I purchased this from another 240 enthusiast early last year who decided not to repair his A/C. I assumed (ass out of ...) it was identical, with an updated part number. Oops.

Any good tutorials on removing the pulley? Can I do it with the compressor still mounted or do I need to remove it? This is all I found:

https://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/760085/experience_replacing_pulley_bearing_seiko_seiki_ac_compressor.html

I should probably swap the bearings too.

Thanks again!

You're welcome.

If you're doing this the first time around better get the new compressor out of car. Also you haven't recharge the AC system yet. Doing this inside car may knock other engine parts, radiator, airbox etc. You'll need all the free space available.

About swapping pulleys...try to dismantle the pulley and bearing out of the OLD compressor first just to get the hang of it.

About getting the bearing out...there are metal tabs formed by hydraulic press at the BACK of the pulley to secure the bearing inside. Pushing/hitting the bearing out is needed to overcome these tabs. NEW bearing must always be used as you'll DESTROY the old one getting it out. This is because you'll be pushing/hitting the bearing out on its INNER race/sleeve from the front of the pulley.

New bearing is installed by pressing on its OUTER race/sleeve back into the pulley. May need to use hydraulic press to form NEW TABS behind the pulley (need to go to metal workshop like the guide says) or use RED LOCTITE on the outer bearing sleeve before installing. If the old bearing is still ok no grinding whatsoever then swapping pulleys are much easier.

Later the pulley-bearing assembly is pressed back onto the compressor by pushing/tapping on the bearing's INNER race/sleeve.

Link to SS compressor rebuilt. Please take note of photos (from top) 3, 5 to 10 and 27 to 30:
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?2157863-Seiko-Seiki-Compressor-Rebuild

Link to Century Auto Air regarding use of red loctite during bearing installation. This is for a Sanden bearing having metal tabs. The process is similar:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zn9N5sypuME

I think the guide in the link you provided is good enough.


Regards,
Amarin.

I had this same problem and replaced the AC belt with a 965 and the power steering belt with a 840.

Hope this helps,

Ron J