Hi,

When I replaced the rear main seal due to major oil leak the lines needed removed on my 90 244. One line had already been repaired with compression fittings in the past and I had been noticing another leak. Those lines can take a beating but they had a considerable amount of salt damage (PA winters) so I replaced them with OEM lines from FCP. At the time they were around $60 a line.

Travis

Had the leak at the transmission/line clamp problem on my 1984 245. Removed the lines, cleaned and then carefully brazed the leak shut. The lines were then wrapped with electrical tape where they pass under the clamp. Repair was good during the 15 years before "Buster" was sold.

If you can solder, you can braze. I believe a Mapp torch will do the job.

Regards,

Tatra Mike
Seattle, Washington

1985 244 "Alfsen" (wife's car - the good one)
1984 245 "Buster" (the kid's car, now sold)
1985 245 "Cosmo" (parts car, sold off for move to WA)
1985 245 "Daisy" (back seat down, full of tools, the work truck)
1985 245 "Earl (CA vehicle 'retirement' program)
1985 244 "Junker 1" (Bought for parts, currently being dismantled)

Can you tell I prefer the 1985 model 240? Better headlights than the plastic 1986+ and nicer belt adjustments than the 1984s and earlier!

Does it have a hole where the clamp holds the lines to the bellhousing ? If so, I used a couple compression fittings and a short piece of tubing to repair the leak. The line is not really high pressure or failure critical ( like a brake line ) so the compression fittings are adequate. Check for leaks until you are satisfied the repair is sound and the fittings do not need to be tightened anymore.

Greg

Just comparing the lines, they bend in different places. While the end fittings might be the same...
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