posted by
someone claiming to be john D
on
Tue Jul 21 21:29 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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88 245. When ordering a new fuel pump how to you distinguish between the in tank pump and the other pump that mounted under the car? When I look up the parts on line there isn't a listing for either or, just a pump. And..Airtex Brand pump?? Any good?
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$86.00 from Amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-69593-Original-Equipment-Replacement/dp/B000BZL9PO/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Volvo|27&Model=240|129&Year=1990|1990&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=5&vehicleType=automotive
hawkeye
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When I type in my make and model it comes up that it doesn't fit. I did find a Bosch 69429 for about $100.
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For an 88 245, an Airtex E8778 is what I would get for the one in the tank. The external pump is not an item to replace "just because" but deserves careful diagnosis. The Bosch original may last longer than your engine, which you know lasts longer than the car. Depends on how it was treated.
See this article if you want to make an informed decision: In The Tank
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Since it's the early worm that gets eaten by the bird, sleep late.
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posted by
someone claiming to be john D
on
Thu Jul 23 14:25 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Art thanks for the link. few questions. The gray and black wire are the power? I can use my DVOM and check the voltage going to the pump at that point? I am having a no start issue. I pulled the hose to the fuel regulator and had no gas in it at all, so I am assuming that its not getting gas. In your article you stated that rearely does the pump under the car go bad but I will also test there to see if its getting power. Any tips on that process? Thanks
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Which hose on the FPR did you pull? No gas coming out of the hose on the vacuum side. You want dry. That is normal.
Flooding or rich operation occurs otherwise as gas gets sucked into the intake manifold.
You want gas flow to come out of the FPR, on the tank return line side, when you jumper the pumps, in the fuse panel.
Definitely should come out when you crank the engine or you might have a bad system relay.
Do you have dry or wet plugs?
Check out a post I made to Guillermo on a no start for other items that might cause a gas flow issue.
Phil
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You don't say how you came to discover your desire to buy a pump.
At the tank sender, the black wire is power, the brown is ground. The gray is the fuel level.
Under the car, the easiest way to check power to the main pump is to lift the rear seat cushion and check it where it leaves the inside of the car for the outside. Of course if you find power there, that doesn't mean the connections to the pump itself are OK.
However, I am just answering the questions you pose, which may not turn out to be helpful at all.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Children seldom misquote you. In fact, they usually repeat word for word what you shouldn't have said.
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posted by
someone claiming to be john D
on
Thu Jul 23 16:15 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Well Art, I really have NO desire to buy a pump! haha. I have a no start condition and when I turn on the key I do not hear that familiar pump sound. By the way this is a wagon. I can look for power by connecting to the brown and black leads? If so what voltage should I see? I just want to make sure its not a relay issue before I have to go through removing the intank unit. If I do have to remove the intank unit do you recommend changing the entire assembly?
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I am aware that link I posted is more reading than most have patience for, haha.
First of all, there is no pump voltage in your car until it is either cranking or running. So I'm unaware of how that "pump sound" became familiar to you.
I'm guessing you should begin a new thread entitled "cranks but does not start" or something as descriptive. We can take you through methodical troubleshooting -- spark, fuel, compression -- as it relates to your specific model and year wagon. It will help if you log in, so that you can receive email for thread updates. Just a suggestion.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
We childproofed our homes, but they are still getting in.
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Hey art!
How does the e-mail work to receive to a thread?
Does it only notify the original poster of the questions progress or "all" that are involved with the activity?
I have never posted that many questions on here myself so, I was not aware of that feature.
How do you set it up?
Phil
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Wed Jul 22 09:50 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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Why are you all saying a Main fuel Pump is expensive?
you can get a Bosch New Main Pump for less than $100 from FCP
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-fuel-pump-main-0580464068
the intank pump kit that Art Rec is $49 at AutoZone
http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/fuel-pump/airtex-fuel-pump/603309/
I bought a "spare" Main Pump off years ago for $94 and take it with me on any extended road trips. Cheap Insurance.
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In the past it was $250-300. So if it is truly new and not remanufactured, it is a heck of a deal.
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That's a great price on the Bosch, the Airtex can be found for $30 on Amazon
Dan
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I agree, Art. From my experience, the Bosch main pumps can outlast the car. When I sold my 90 244 the original Bosch had 300k and was still going. My 95 855 has 250k on its Bosch pump and is still going strong. The in-tank pumps are another story... but they are cheap.
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There are all manner of deisignations.
Tank pump, lift pump, pre pump, etc are the small in-tank pump.
Hi pressure pump, main pump or simply fuel pump have all been applied to the big pump under the car. Although I believe I have seen the tank pump referred to as the main pump. I would not consider it to be such.
How you can really tell is appearance. I would put up some pics but don't have time right now. Also price. The big high pressure pump under the car will always cost a lot more.
Big pump: buy Bosch. Accept no substitute.
Tank pump: Delco has been long considered to be the one but I and others have had good service from the Airtex. There may be another reliable brand but in my experience the really cheap after market ones sometimes last only a few weeks.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
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I need to replace a main pump on an 81 262c that was sitting for a number of years. The Bosch pump with the correct bullet fittings is way $$$. An MTC brand is 1/2 the price. Also will a Bosch pump from say an 85-86 240 work? i know k-jet runs at high pressure but will the pump from a NA 240 be enough pressure? These tend to be less money and also have the correct fittings. Thanks
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The pumps for LH injection will not work in a K-Jet car for the reason you mention. K-Jet needs higher pressure than EFI.
Have at look at ipd's Bosch pump for your car. And, for that matter, one of mine. Note the eyelet connectors. This looks like it would be an easier installation than the one I put on my 242 a couple of years back.
http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6996/104538-main-fuel-pump-k-jet-200
MTC would be a crap shoot. No telling who makes it or where it's made.
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
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Hi,
What about using a k-Jet pump in an LH ? About 10 years ago I bought an 80 265 and had to buy a pump to get it home. It has about 2 hours on it. I usually throw it in my LH 2.2 or 2.4 cars for long trips. Not a good idea ?
Peter
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I wouldn't. I can't quote chapter and verse on pump specs without looking them up but it seems like K-Jet line pressure is maybe twice that of LH. If the FPR can handle this I do not know. I don't even know if it would install easily as far as the line fittings.
But they made different pumps for different systems for a reason.
I have to ask. You bought a pump to get a car home and then never used the pump again? What happened?
--
'80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon
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Thanks Bullet,
A kid came here from California to study at the University of Vermont. He parked his 265 behind his apartment for 4 years, and a couple of days before flying home advertised it for sale. It was in outstanding cosmetic condition but it wouldn't start, something he failed to tell me on the phone.
I was 60 miles from home and without tools. He desperately wanted it gone, so we agreed on $300. and I came back the next day. There was power to the pump but it got very hot and wouldn't turn. I'd been dropped off and didn't have a vehicle to go hunting, so I walked to a nearby Napa and bought one for 100 bucks.
At the time I had no knowledge of how bad an early PVR can be. At 90k the camshafts were completely worn out. It was noisy as all get out, and I think it had head gasket issues. The 3 speed auto was no prize either. If I had it today I'd be swapping something into it, but I wasn't in a position to do that at the time. Over the years I've recycled almost every part of it to other cars, so that now it's siting on blocks in my barn, just a shell with motor and tranny. I'm hoping to find a late model wagon that's been front ended and then swap over the doors, hood, front grill with quad lights, and commando bumpers, all mint. It's a gold GL. Gold goes with everything so I'd leave it 2 tone.
So that's how I've come by a KJet pump with 2 hours on it. If Neil621 is reading this and thinks it will work for him, email me and I'll make you a deal you won't refuse. I modified the nylon connection between the pump and filter by silver soldering a smaller nipple into the banjo at the pump, but that can be undone. The bracket holding the pump and filter is the same. I don't think it's a Bosch though, I'd have to look and see.
Peter
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Peter thanks for the offer. I located a new Bocsh pump on Amazon and it will be here soon. I picked up an 81 262c with 29000 OE miles on it but it has been sitting for about 8 years now. Slowly working on it to get it running again.
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posted by
someone claiming to be CB
on
Wed Jul 22 11:05 CST 2015 [ RELATED]
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http://www.ipdusa.com/products/6996/104538-main-fuel-pump-k-jet-200
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Rockauto designates "Externally Mounted" and "In-Tank" which is also designated as "low pressure".
Airtex is now kind of an industry standard for aftermarket pumps these days. This means for the in-tank pump there really are not any better options and there are some worse options.
Though the real deal Bosch is available for the external pump, they are quite pricey...well worth it if you plan to keep the car for another 250K miles but I have a hard time justifying it when 30-day-warrantied used pumps are less than half the price...since they tend to have a lifespan of about 250-300K miles, they usually have a lot of life left in them.
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