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Oil pump drive bushing specs 444-544

In an effort to remedy a no-start, no-spark condition on my '65 544 with B18 I discovered that the oil pump drive bushing has worn to the point that it drops down into the block far enough to allow the dogs on the bottom end of the distributor to no longer engage with the slots on the top of the oil pump drive gear. In this position the distributor rotor no longer turns creating a no-spark condition. If I grab the top of the oil pump drive gear with a pair of needle nosed pliers and gently lift it up (twisting as it engages with the cam gear) it will stay in place long enough for me to gently install the perfectly aligned distributor and the engine will start and run until such time that it then drops back down---usually when shut off again or when I turn the rotor by hand.
The top end of the outside of the bushing measures 17mm, the bottom end slightly less. When I pull the oil pump drive gear completely out, the bushing comes out with it quite easily. It seems that the only thing keeping the bushing from falling off the shaft altogether is a bit of crusty oil sludge caked on the lower end.
I have a junk block with the bushing still in it (quite tightly, it appears) so how do I go about getting the tight bushing out of the junk block without damaging it? And what are the correct measurements for the bushing? Is there a specified height above the block opening that the bushing should sit in order to hold the drive gear in the correct position or is it one of those 'try it till it seems right' kind of things?
Any help on this is GREATLY appreciated!








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    Oil pump drive bushing specs 444-544

    Hello,

    It isn't hard to push the bushing out. I use a short 12mm 1/4 drive socket and extension to knock it out from the inside, so you are going to have to remove the oil pan and oil pump and that is not easy. I now pull the engine instead of removing the oil pan in the car. It is a lot easier to work on the engine with it on a stand and I think less overall work than dropping the crossmember.

    Besides, I think you have another problem, most likely, the oil pump as it is VERY unusual for the that bushing to seize onto the distributor/oil pump drive shaft.

    New bushings are still available, but you might be able to use the 1 from your spare engine.

    However, you should check for excessive play as the bushing does wear like a valve guide.

    To check the bushing play, use a your drive gear, minus the old bushing of course and install in the donor bushing and see if you can fell any side play by trying to move the end of the shaft of the drive gear side to side inside the engine while installed.

    To properly set the bushing height, 1st install the replacement bushing making sure to align the hole in the bushing so it will face the oil hole in the block, then install the drive gear with the distributor base and very importantly, the distributor base gasket as its thickness will make a difference. Bolt it down carefully because if the bushing is set too high, you can break the distributor base if you tighten the bolts. I always check to see if the distributor base appears to be seated all the way into the block before installing the bolts. You then check for up and down play by pulling and pushing on the shaft inside the block. It can take several attempts to get it just right, sometimes pushing the bushing into the block to get some more play, or pushing it out to remove end play. You can do this with the camshaft installed.
    --
    Eric
    Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
    Torrance, CA 90502
    hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com








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    Oil pump drive bushing specs 444-544

    Matt;

    I believe I understand your general description of the problem, but I'm having trouble with some of your terminology...a Bushings are what both Distributor driveshaft (20) and Oilpump driveshaft (5) ride in...



    If Distributor driveshaft which is driven by Cam is not being engaged by Distributor, first assure that Distributor is sitting correctly (and fully DOWN) in its collar/clamp! Distributor driveshaft does drop when it engages Oilpump driveshaft slot, but dimensions and location of everything in its normal locations still allows Distributor drive to engages it...so there is either something wrong at the Oilpump (too low) resulting in its Shaft being located to low allowing Dist Driveshaft to drop further than it normally should, OR at the Distributor (too high) and not dropping down enough to engage Distributor drive. You need to determine which is the case!

    I'd remove Oilpump drive shaft and inspect lower end key which engages driveslot in Oilpump shaft. Also inspect slot which key should engage in on top of Oilpump driveshaft (a light, and the right angle of light and viewing will be necessary!)... if nothing looks wrong or broken, I'd measure the depth at which Oilpump drive shaft is sitting (with respect to Distributor mounting base surface of block), and compare that to a known good engine (someone would need to provide the known good reference measurement).

    Let's see what you find in this inspection...unfortunately, I can't think of any further inspection which can be performed from outside the engine...and if its not the Distributor which is sitting too high, any corrective action at the Oilpump will only be possible after engine removal and removal of the oilpan to get acces to Oilpump.

    FYI...IPD sells (or used to) sell an "Oilpump Drive Reinforcing Rings" because the one (or both) sides of the Oilpump drive shaft were prone to breaking off...then the Distributor driveshaft wouldn't engage the shaft to drive Oilpump...but even if that were to happen, that problem is rotational...it wouldn't result in symptoms of a receding Distributor driveshaft...

    Good Hunting!








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      Oil pump drive bushing specs 444-544

      Thanks for the input Ron. This make call for more serious surgery than I was hoping for.

      What appears to be happening is this: The upper bushing (# 22 in the oil pump diagram #17) is able to slide up and down the shaft #20 even while it is installed in the block. My understanding is that the bushing #22 should be pressed into the block and the top end of the bushing will help to keep the drive gear (#19) at the right height. The junk motor that I am looking at has the bushing #22 sitting with about 1/8" of it visible above the block.
      It now occurs to me that the oil pump would also hold the oil pump drive shaft and gear in the correct position and so the oil pump must be loose or somehow sitting low enough to allow the pump drive shaft (#20) to drop just low enough for the dogs on the end of the distributor to disengage.

      Time to pull the engine, I'm thinking.








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        Oil pump drive bushing specs 444-544

        Matt;

        I've never heard of that bushing getting loose, but I suppose anything's possible...

        I would still take the Oilpump shaft measurement to Distributor mounting surface height also on spare engine and compare it to problem engine...because even with a loose #22 bushing, Distributor driveshaft should not fall low enough to disengage Distributor drive...

        If it was only a matter of locking that bushing into place, I'd remove it with shaft, degrease block ID (with cotton swabs or similar), bushing OD, and glue the bushing into place using a Loktite type of product while assuring alignment with Dist shaft (caution, alignment may need to align an oiling hole connected to the oil gallery).

        Let us know what you find and how you make out.

        Good Hunting.








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          Oil pump drive bushing specs 444-544

          Make sure the oil hole in the bushing is lined up when re-installing.

          Also make sure that oil passage is not clogged.

          When ever I am rebuilding a B18/B20/B30, I take the time to adjust the bushing
          so it has minimal end play when installed with the aluminum distributor mounting base and most importantly, the gasket if you plan on using 1.

          And the only way I have ever done this is with the complete engine or with oil pan being removed.

          I would not be surprised if you find problems with the oil pump.

          Do you have a repair manual that covers your engine?

          You can download copies online here:

          http://www.volvoamazonpictures.se/documents/Volvo_Amazon_manuals_en.php
          --
          Eric
          Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)
          Torrance, CA 90502








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            Oil pump drive bushing specs 444-544

            So after much consideration, I pulled the engine, dropped the oil sump, removed the oil pump and found.......nothing of any significant note. The pump that would not turn with a screwdriver and appeared jammed is turning freely and other than being rather worn seems fine. My best guess is that the loose distributor shaft bushing was dropping, allowing the distributor/oil pump shaft to disengage with the cam gear. why the length of the dist/oil pump shaft was such that it could drop that far while the oil pump was boltted tightly in place remains a mystery.
            What I did determine is this: The engine has been heavily molested in it's 50 years. It apparently threw a rod somewhere along the line punching a hole in the block which was then carefully patched with JB weld.
            So my oil pump replacement project is now a complete rebuild with a different block and head.

            The adventure continues.







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