Hello,
It isn't hard to push the bushing out. I use a short 12mm 1/4 drive socket and extension to knock it out from the inside, so you are going to have to remove the oil pan and oil pump and that is not easy. I now pull the engine instead of removing the oil pan in the car. It is a lot easier to work on the engine with it on a stand and I think less overall work than dropping the crossmember.
Besides, I think you have another problem, most likely, the oil pump as it is VERY unusual for the that bushing to seize onto the distributor/oil pump drive shaft.
New bushings are still available, but you might be able to use the 1 from your spare engine.
However, you should check for excessive play as the bushing does wear like a valve guide.
To check the bushing play, use a your drive gear, minus the old bushing of course and install in the donor bushing and see if you can fell any side play by trying to move the end of the shaft of the drive gear side to side inside the engine while installed.
To properly set the bushing height, 1st install the replacement bushing making sure to align the hole in the bushing so it will face the oil hole in the block, then install the drive gear with the distributor base and very importantly, the distributor base gasket as its thickness will make a difference. Bolt it down carefully because if the bushing is set too high, you can break the distributor base if you tighten the bolts. I always check to see if the distributor base appears to be seated all the way into the block before installing the bolts. You then check for up and down play by pulling and pushing on the shaft inside the block. It can take several attempts to get it just right, sometimes pushing the bushing into the block to get some more play, or pushing it out to remove end play. You can do this with the camshaft installed.
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Eric Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only) Torrance, CA 90502 hiperformanceautoservice.com or oldvolvosonly.com
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