Since there have been so many twists and turns with removing the transmission from our 960, and information is scattered across multiple boards and sites I decided to try and consolidate as much of it here as possible in case anyone ends up doing the same job.

If you're trying to avoid the swap you may have noticed that Toyota used basically the same transmission in the early '90s. The internals and the transmission itself are not interchangeable whatsoever, don't bother trying.

Removing the thing:
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal and jack the car way up in the air. All four wheels will need to be off the ground since you will have to turn the driveshaft in order to disconnect it. remove obvious things (plugs, disconnect the shifter, drain fluid, ...).
- Remove the exhaust pipe that runs forward of the oil pan. This pipe may be used to transfer heat rather than actual exhaust gas. Two 14mm bolts attach it to the underside of the oil pan and may have been mangled by road debris over the years.
- Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the transmission and collect more fluid.
- Go back up above ground and remove the transmission cooler lines from the radiator.
- Remove the boots and hoses from the intake manifold. Remove the two electrical connectors that are visible from up above. Disconnect the fuel rail and gently remove it. Go back underneath the car and remove the 13mm bolt at the underside of the intake manifold (near the engine mount). You will have to find it by feel since you can't see it. Disconnect the other plug on the intake manifold that faces the firewall.
- Back in the engine bay again, remove the twelve hose clamps connecting the two portions of the intake manifold together. Remove the vacuum line running to the brake booster if you haven't already and wiggle the intake loose and remove it from the car.
- Remove the two 14mm bolts from the starter (now visible underneath the intake), and next the bolt at the front of the starter bracket. Remove and disconnect the wiring from the starter and remove it from the car. You have now gained access to the area you will remove the torque converter bolts from. These are star point (Txx) bolts.
- Back underneath the car... Disconnect the driveshaft from the transmission with the appropriate sized wrench and your favorite hammer. Turn the driveshaft or wheels as necessary and set/release the parking brake to access the other bolts. Next remove the driveshaft carrier bearing mounting bracket. Using a pry bar you can gently move the transmission forward, allowing the front of the driveshaft to be lowered to the ground.
- Time to start attacking the 14mm bolts that attach the transmission to the car. One at a time, loosen the bolts between the block and bellhousing on the sides and underneath the car.
- Back in the engine compartment again, you have three more bolts to remove that you may not be able to see clearly. Looking towards the firewall one of them is just to the left of the starter hole and the next one is about 3 inches more to the left. To loosen mine I had to put the handle to the jack on the wrench and hammer the other end. Be careful because you will be working very close to the brake lines.
- The last one is on the passenger side and can be seen without removing anything. To remove this one I had to use the handle to the jack again and a bottle jack underneath the car to apply enough force for it to break free. You won't be able to get directly underneath this one due to the exhaust pipes so be careful not to strip the bolt.
***Caution during reassembly: This bolt cannot be completely removed or installed while the transmission is still in the car***
- Break free the bolts on the structural member supporting the rear of the transmission but do not remove them. Remove the bolts that attach the torque converter to the flex plate.

This is how far I have gotten so far. The transmission should be ready to drop.

While you're in there maintenance for the intake area...
- New oil trap (check engine number to make sure you buy the right one!) and all other PCV-related hoses, rings and bits
- New vacuum line joints for anything on the intake manifold.
- Fuel injector seals
- Remove the other part of the intake manifold and replace that gasket. You may already have a vacuum leak there anyway since others report the bolts loosen over time. Mine did as well.
- Clean everything down there and the intake manifold up. Your PCV system probably leaked oil or vapor and it's a little nasty down there.

While you're in there maintenance for the transmission area...
- Rear main seal
- Forward transmission seal (strongly advised to replace this on other boards!)
- Check Transmission mount, u-joints, driveshaft center support bearing

Modifications
- Bypass the original transmission cooler and install an external one so coolant and transmission fluid will never mix again.