Well I guess I'm going to have to admit that I could have been at least in part responsible for the flange damage on the 89 240. Yes I did use a hammer to tap out the caps and perhaps I wasn't careful applying pressure using the vice. But the flange on the 91 was already damaged before my incompetent paws got a hold of it. Also replacing the bolts is a good suggestion. Can I just match them up in size and grade or should I order OEM.

imo NEVER hammer in the bearing caps of a fresh u joint.

to remove a bad joint the easiest and safest way to eliminate stress on the yoke is to use an angle grinder to slice thru the joint itself leaving the 4 bearing cap remains in the yoke.

then, lightly tap out the bearing cap remains from the yoke while is sits snug in a vise. they come out easily and with little effort

to install a fresh u joint i hand start the bearing caps into the yoke on the both ends.
place the u joint into the yoke
slowly press using a bench vise the bearing caps into the yoke until the joint is no longer able to slide anywhere but further into the bearing caps.

then press slowly evenly until the caps are in.

test your u joint for easy flexibility in both directions before install of the driveshaft into the car.. if needed press one side or the other until easy flexibility is achieved.

all 3 ujoints on a 240 driveshaft at least among the later models (89-93) are the same

personally i install the joint into the shaft itself first and then install the other 2 bearing caps into the tiny flange end. doing it this ways makes it easier to manipulate the much lighter flange end than having to deal with the weight of the shaft.

If the U-joints are the same size, the yokes are likely interchangeable.

But, since the rear-most joint flexes more that the others, in some cars, the rear most U-joint is larger.

The first time I saw a professional mechanic hammering away at a U-joint to install the caps, I was horrified. I'd thought a press or even a vice was the way to go. Really though, you have no control over the press or vice, and no idea how much pressure is being applied, and it's pretty easy to bend the yoke. I've wasted a few. A soft hammer really is your friend. Much more control.

If the yoke is squeezed, you bet... that U-joint might get in there. But it's gonna wear way prematurely..

In any event, just measure the circle that bolts to the tranny and rear. If identical, the tranny side and diff side should interchange.

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-Matt I ♥ my ♂