Volvo RWD 200 Forum

INDEX FOR 10/2025(CURRENT) INDEX FOR 9/2004 200 INDEX

[<<]  [>>]


THREADED THREADED EXPANDED FLAT PRINT ALL
MESSAGES IN THIS THREAD




  REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Need help w/diagnostic codes.. one is clear, one is CRAZY (is my ECU bad?) 200 1989

Greetings!

(1989 volvo 240)- IS MY ECU going bad?? check it out..

I have been having issues with idling (once i start it, it will shut off -more often than not- if I don't hit the gas)..

Also, when I am stopped and pressing gas to go, it will often NOT move, feel weak, and sort of scoot, slowly..).. I'll press the gas more and luckily it will kick in.. it gets better as the car warms up.. say 10 minutes into my morning drive..

It has been getting progressively worse.. at first it'd be here and there, while driving, or after stopping and going again.. now it's becoming the norm..

I ran the diagnostic tests for the LH 2.4 today.

For the fuel injection test, I got a 2-3-2, which indicated the fuel trim was too lean/too rich.. I recently had a no start issue and my mechanic said it was a bad fuel pump, replaced the main fuel pump/new filter.. (the other fuel pump was replaced not too long ago)..

Here is the CRAZY diagnostic test.. Diagnostic Test Mode 3: Injection System Component Activation Test(In socket 2, where you press it 3x... )Once I did the 3 initial presses, it began flashing SO fast I couldn't count, making a ticking sound, then paused and gave me 11 quick flashes/ticks, and then another 11 or so..

My dad thinks my ECU may be going bad.. which is apparently the only complaint people have about the 89' 240..

any help is appreciated.. thank you so much..








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Need help w/diagnostic codes.. one is clear, one is CRAZY (is my ECU bad?) 200 1989

    "I have been having issues with idling (once i start it, it will shut off -more often than not- if I don't hit the gas).. "
    First thing to do is check the AMM as it senses air intake and fuel trim is determined by that.

    There's a "limp home" mode that is programmed in to allow the car to run (but poorly) with the AMM disconnected. So you don't destroy the AMM disconnect/reconnect it with the key out of the ignition. Disconnect the AMM and see if the symptoms improve. If yes, then it's probably the AMM.
    --
    1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.








  •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

    Need help w/diagnostic codes.. one is clear, one is CRAZY (is my ECU bad?) 200 1989

    If the 1989 had an ECU failure it would merely cease to work by not providing ground to the fuel pump relay. Your issue is elsewhere and I am about 90% sure it was never your main fuel pump.

    Just to be sure, take off the passenger kick panel and report back the color of the label and the model number of the ECU.

    What you describe can be one of a number of things but lets just go through some basics:

    Pull the 20 Amp blade fuse from the fuse holder on the passenger fender and check its condition. Likely it will be badly corroded. Clean in and reinsert it into the holder a few time.

    Check the operation of the throttle switch and make sure it clicks immediately as the throttle leaves the stop. When was the last time the Idle air control motor and the throttle body were cleaned?

    Remove the accordion hose between the AMM and the throttle body. In a dark room, shine a flashlight around the hose while looking down the middle...flex the hose into different positions and repeat.

    Check remaining vac lines with a mist of water or WD40 or something while idling. Hit all the connection points for vacuum lines. If the idle stumbles or rev's up, you found a vac leak.

    Two final things are the most important but the least likely for you to have tools or skills on hand:

    Swap you AMM for your known-good spare
    Check the O2 sensor output with a multimeter








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Keep calm 200 1989

      "What you describe can be one of a number of things but lets just go through some basics:"

      Onkel, what he describes is exactly how it is supposed to work.
      --
      Art Benstein near Baltimore

      "...real expertise is never appreciated. People would always rather muddle along in their own dim, blundering way than have someone else point out where they were going wrong--even if that other person is clearly brighter." -Jeff Lindsay








    •   REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

      Need help w/diagnostic codes.. one is clear, one is CRAZY (is my ECU bad?) 200 1989

      Hi Emily Thewlis,

      So, as in Odin's ravens Huginn and Muninn? Both of whom fly around the World and then return to inform Odin?

      Odin and Freyja would probably drive a Volvo, if they could.

      We'll get to see Thor shortly in the new Avengers film!

      Please work through your diagnosis and repair as Onkel Udo II directs.

      You made a prior post as to poor idling. Art Benstein and I both replied to help you through your idling issue.

      Check socket six for fault codes in the ignition (spark, EGR) Bosch EZK engine controller? Sometimes, you can find a fault code in socket 2 (Bosch LH-Jetronic 2.4 [or possibly 3.1] fuel injection control) and socket six.

      Look to the 700-900 FAQ, on this page:

      https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm


      https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm

      See the section on Vacuum Leak Diagnosis. A section on the Fuel Pressure Regulator follows.

      Many faults begin as intermittent. The On Board Diagnostic (OBD) helps you to diagnose to directs to the exact fault cause.

      On the dash center console are three square buttons that control air flow. Do these work? If no, you have found a vacuum leak source.

      There is a 20-amp fuse in a fuse holder in behind the battery below where the driver-side fender bolts to the car. The fuse connection may be corroded as Onkel Udo II describes. Sometimes, the fuse holder is too far deteriorated for reliable use, requiring a replacement, as what I had to do for my 1990 240 DL wagon (with manual transmission).

      I'll also add that the accordion air intake hose that is between the AMM/MAF and the throttle body can make contact with the inner fender and other pieces. Over time, holes can form, that can cause the lean / rich fuel mixture at idle error code you have.

      You may also want to check whether the:
      - Fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is leaking through the connected vacuum line. If yes, replace it.
      - How are the fuses in the fuse box? Remove the fuse box cover, and give each a gentle spin. Replace any blown fuses, and be sure they do not blow again!
      - Air filter condition?

      And, I can't think of much else right now.

      Please try what Onkel Udo II diagnoses and correct.

      Post back with your results.

      Questions?

      Thank you,

      B.







<< < > >>



©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.