Have front brake pad installation problems with a '94 Volvo 940 with ABS and Lucas/Girling 1198 front pads. I got it all apart and cleaned up, new rotors new Axxis metal master 1198 pads and compressed the single piston as far as it can go. I have trouble clearing the 2 hardware studs with the rubber boots....seems I get lined up on the top but not enough clearance on the bottom to put in the second 12mm bolt. http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/7486/Disc-Brake-Caliper-Pin-Kit-271350/

Is that hardware kit supposed to slide and compress on those rubber boots ?
Do I need a new hardware kit? This job should be super easy.

I think you may have the wrong slider pin kit for your 1994 940, according to the info on your pin kit from eEuroparts using PN 271350

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Repair-kit/1126151/271282.html

Product Fitment/Applications
Volvo 940 1991, 1992, 1993
Volvo 960 1991, 1992, 1993


--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.

Hi,

You could compare between old and new brake parts (pins included) to see if they are the same dimensions. If they are, there should be no problem getting the new ones in.

As you've said the job should be super easy. Old parts (particularly those pins) could be reused provided they're not badly corroded or bent. Torque the pin bolts to 20 ft lb.


Regards,
Amarin.

Edit: Sometimes air got trapped within the pin wells during installation. You could push in the pin till it bottoms out to let air escape prior to installation.

Dear dummy,

Hope you're well. The "hardware studs with the rubber boots" are the caliper pins.

If the caliper pins are corroded and/or the grease on them is old, the pins may not slide freely. If the rubber boots are torn or cracked, replace them. They keep water away from the pins.

The caliper pins should be cleaned so that the metal is smooth and so they are free of old, hardened grease. Fine steel wool and brake cleaner (solvent) can be used to remove corrosion.

Use brake cleaner to remove old grease from the pins and also from the wells, into which the pins fit.

Then, apply to the pins a light (thin) coating of brake grease. Do NOT use axle grease. Brake grease is a high-temperature, silicone-based grease. Unlike axle grease - which will deteriorate quickly given the high heat generated by brake use - a thin coating of brake grease will keep the caliper pins sliding smoothly.

Hope this helps.

Yours faithfully,

Spook

I gather the caliper pins that are in there should move freely with some sil-glide brake grease on them. Well, these pins are as stiff as a board...no movement at all. How should I try to yank 'em out of the cavity?
The rubber boots seem to be OK. Thanks.

As I understand it, you have the old guide pins out and can't get the new ones in. Getting them out when seized is half the problem. I've twisted one off and had to drill out the remains to salvage a caliper.

Did you read the FAQ?

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Brakes.htm#CaliperGuidePinsMaintenance

"To remove light corrosion from the caliper guide pin bores, use a 10mm rifle or .410 gauge shotgun bore cleaning brush in a drill to clean them. When replacing the pins, lubricate with the high temperature silicone brake grease noted above and make sure the rubber boots are in good condition."
--
1992 745, >500k km

Hi,

You could use Crescent wrench (adjustable spanner) on the pin heads and twist them gently to free them. Then use pliers to pull them out.

Yes they should be freely moving in and out. If they're not, the pins could be bent and/or there are rust/dirt in the wells. Clean the wells throughly (long wire brush or cotton buds - make sure no cotton left behind) prior to installing new ones.

Regards,
Amarin.