Hello all. Trying to figure out my intermittent no hot start. The car does not turn over when this happens. Let it cool off then it turns over and starts. I don't think ít is fuel injector relay because I have swapped out during problem with no luck. Could it be fuel pump relay? Would car turn over if the relay is bad cause this car doesn't turn when having prob. Replaced ignition switch already.

Hello Chris,

Is the transmission manual or auto? You could try to start in neutral if its auto.

It could be a ground problem too if the car starts nicely when jumped. Try connecting one end of the jumper lead to engine metal and the other straight to battery negative (no donor car here) to improve the ground connection for a while.

Amarin.

It's an auto and I took car out for drive to try and duplicate problem. Got it home and it wouldn't start. Put it in neutral tried to start nothing. Jumped it and it started right up.

Battery was showing 12.6 volts during the no start condition.

Has anyone ever seen a battery show good volts but actually be bad. That is the only thing I can think of because this is acting like a bad battery problem.

12.6 static is good. Check the voltage when trying to crank.(below 9, bad) You can try wiggling your shifter when it doesn't start.
Do the idiot lights dim when no start?
Double check all your cables.
If you put 12v directly to starter(key off) does the starter turn over?
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I am thinking it is either battery or cables.

When it isn't turning over couldn't I run a jumper wire from my battery positive to the little wire post on the starter and if it turns over then doesn't that mean the wire harness is bad?

"When it isn't turning over couldn't I run a jumper wire from my battery positive to the little wire post on the starter and if it turns over then doesn't that mean the wire harness is bad?"

By doing this you're testing the ignition switch circuit to the starter.

The starter has two circuits.

One circuit from positive battery via the thick red cable to starter and grounds it on the engine, this goes back to the negative battery via the ground cable from engine.

Another circuit from positive battery goes into the dashboard via the ignition switch, thru neutral safety switch at gear, then to the starter's little wire post (the solenoid terminal) to make it operational. This circuit also shares the same ground on engine.

BOTH circuits must be working in order for starter to function.

Amarin.

While your at it I'd check your engine grounds if you haven't already...

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Current - 95 855 GLT Sportwagon 255k, Formerly - 90 244 DL 300k

I have cleaned the two grounds that I could find. The one on the block close to the starter and the other below the power brakes on the frame. Car still did the no start no crank after a drive today. Came back to the car 20 mins later and it fired right up. SO it will start after a no start by sitting for awhile or jumping it.

The other thing I am starting to think about is that it has a after market alarm. I hear that that can cause this problem because it has a starter kill. I have taken apart the dash and am looking at the components trying to figure out what's what. I see two relays the brain and a shock sensor.

But what I wanted to know. Can anyone tell me. If it is a bad park neutral switch. Would the car turn over? If it is bad and wont turn over I think I may just replace that part.

Hi Chris,

With a bad neutral switch the engine won't turn over, just like starting in gears other than neutral or park.

Try to spray clean the switch first before replacing. See if the no-start symptom improves for a while.

The switch has 4 wires. Two for the start circuit and two for ECU feedback. The feedback is to increase idle speed when gear is engaged to compensate for increased engine load. Otherwise engine vibration would be felt due to uncompensated idle during gear engagement.

Amarin.

I just thought of something. When the car is having the problem it will start right away with a jump. Can't I rule out ignition and park neutral switch and alarm because if these things weren't working they wouldn't be sending 12 volts to solenoid. And if there not sending 12 to solenoid then a jump is going to start the car, correct?

Yes. You can conveniently rule out those if the car starts right up during a jump.

Just curious, where did you connect the jump wires to your car?

Lets just say you've connected the negative jump wire (from donor car or another battery) straight to the engine metal then you've just improved the starter's ground connection and helped it to start.

Amarin.

I connected to the battery. Both the positive and negative.

They say the battery has the right volts but low on CCA.

Is it just the battery?

Ok I see it. Now it seems nothing is wrong with your starter cable or starter.

Yes it could be the battery. Low cold cranking amps gives the clue of its low performance during starting the car. You could have the battery charged overnight (a battery shop can do this if you don't have a charger) or replace it with new. If its an old battery it might not take much charge anymore and you'll have to replace it.

Amarin.

I think the battery is 4 years.

Ok this is what I think was happening. First off thank you everyone for your insight.

I think originally I had an issue with that starter post not having a good 12 v connection and when I attempeted to tighten it I broke it. So, I put the new starter in. But when I installed the car didn't start because turns out I had drained the battery.

The batterys was actually closer to six years old. Replaced it today and so far I haven't had the problem. I think it is fixed.

I just thought of something. When the car is having the problem it will start right away with a jump. Can't I rule out ignition and park neutral switch and alarm because if these things weren't working they wouldn't be sending 12 volts to solenoid. And if there not sending 12 to solenoid then a jump is going to start the car, correct?

Measure battery voltage when you try and start it?
Turbo's really need a good 12v. Not just static check. If you get it started go to the nearest battery shop or autoparts store and have your battery load tested.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

I did that like u were saying when it wouldn't start and got a 11.8 So I was thinking good. Came back a half hour later and it fired up

Thank you, I am going to try doing the clean on that.

Does the car have a gray plastic - multi wire connection block at the firewall containing the engine function wires? If so check that the wires are all in and tight. I think the blue/yellow is the starter switch to solenoid wire - but not sure regarding a 740. -- Dave

I am still having the same problem after changing out my starter.

I have taken the battery to two different parts stores and they both tell me it checks out fine.

Today I drove it 5 miles to a store and when I went to restart it wouldn't. I got a guy to jump it and it started right up.

Drove back home and turned it off and back on to see if it would start and it did.

I also have put in a new ignition switch.

What do you guys would think would be the next step? I was thinking maybe trace all the grounds and disconnect clean them regarding the battery.

The car seems to run fine when I am driving and Im not getting any smoke out of the tail pipe.

Again the problem is that after a drive (seems to be getting more frequent) and I turn car off it won't restart without a jump and it doesn't turn over.

Finally got to take a look at car. I cleaned cables at battery. Then when I got to the starter connection I noticed that the post that the positive calbles go to was loose. So I remvoed cables and and tighten post. I thought it was snug and I said to myself let me give it a half more turn for good measure then I heard a crack. Got everything back togther cleaned and vasilined. Car would not start. Same problem as before no turn over. So I dumped a galon of cold water on starter (because I thought the hot cycle may be effecting it). Still same no turn. Then I went out for 2 hour walk to get my daughter from preschool and to the part store. Came back still no start so I am thinking that's good. It's probably that starter connection and I have a new (reman) in my possession. I have done that job before so I should be able to do it again. I write back when I know for certain that was the problem.

If your wiring checks out, the next time it won't hot start, pour cold water on your starter - if that works, you have a hot soak problem with your starter and you need a new starter.

Others have used this technique, it is goofy but works!

You guys are awesome. Still haven't gotten to working on my car. I have just not been driving it much. Plan to try all this when I get a chance. Now, I am starting to think it could be that starter wire because I tugged on it and I could see the wire move at the bolt. I will post back when I find out.

If the engine will not turn over, take a hard look at your battery connections and battery cables. If they are corroded or worn, they can fail when warm. If that is not the problem, then your starter solenoid might be failing.

I didn't know that about the heat and the battery cables. I am pretty sure I am clean and tight. I will have to take another look to make sure. It is a new starter. But the cable to the solinoid might be lose. I will check the two things. Its so weird how I won't touch any components just let it sit and it always restarts.

Last winter, I had a similar probem with my 95 855. A new starter had just been installed. Then a week or two later I started having your problem. Turned out it was the solonoid cable was loose...