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swapping aw70 valve body with toyota a43d 200

posted by  transit wind on  Wed Dec 24 01:18 CST 2014
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last visit: Fri Aug 15 22:40 CST 2014
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While researching the possible rebuild of some auto trans I came across the info about thr toyota a43d trans being nearly identicle with the aw71 which I would assume would include the aw70 valve body minus the aw71L VB.

My idea for a simple fix for a worn plastic check ball in the aw70 could be swapping a toyota a43d VB into the volvo since the toyota check balls are metal and last longer. It would save dropping either transmissions or disassembling the different parts of the valve body.

Anyone know if this has been done before? Anyone transplant the whole a43d into a volvo?








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    Just Curious..... 200

    posted by  Bradley on  Wed Dec 24 16:41 CST 2014
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 12:56 CST 2014
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    What symptoms did you have occur with your trans to lead you to consider replacing the valve body in the first place? Just want to know what to look out for, before some trans shop decides to nick me for a $1000 trans rebuild that might not be required.

    B








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      Just Curious..... 200

      posted by  Onkel Udo II on  Wed Dec 24 18:10 CST 2014
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      last visit: Fri Oct 24 08:50 CST 2014
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      First, almost no AW70/71 is worth rebuilding as coolant contamination is about the only thing that kills them prior to 400K miles...as they rarely fail, they have a market value used of about $200.

      Do a flush per the FAQ's, lube and adjust the kickdown cable once every 200K and pretty mch just change the radiator so you do not get coolant contamination (especially if it is a Blackstone brand as that is OEM when new!) in the trans fluid.








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        Just Curious..... 200

        posted by  transit wind on  Sat May 16 22:00 CST 2015
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        last visit: Fri Aug 15 22:40 CST 2014
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        My understanding is that changing old fluid with new fluid with dislodge and plug up the transmission. That was my mistake with this one. I got the car off a friend and got it running. In an attempt to service the transmission I did a flush with about 230,000 miles on it. The old fluid was old and brown. Before the flush the transmission was running great and really smooth. Then it started to slip after flushing it. I believe another person I spoke to also received the same advice from a friend who worked on cars. Once the transmission has been allowed to be driven without proper service its best to leave the old fluid. My other experience with a 90 245 I put back on the road a few years ago and my brother drove 100,000 in 2 years was its best to just drain the pan every 3-6 months and refill rather than a flush all at once. That transmission was horrible when I got the car. But with some additive and draining the pan and actually allowing the thing to bleed through a leaky tailshaft seal for a while it has survived to 330,000.

        My belief at the moment with the autos is that if you swapped out the valve body with a toyota that already has a metal check ball and you slowly replace the fluid over a couple years then the AW70 (the weaker trans of the two 70/71) will last beyond what the FAQ section states they last to about 250,000.

        The key is to not allow the transmission to start slipping or otherwise the clutches will go bad. If you can maintain the valve body then the clutches would last maybe 350,000 to 400,000.








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          A myth, IMHO .... 200

          posted by  Ken C on  Sun May 17 15:07 CST 2015
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          last visit: Fri Oct 24 11:39 CST 2014
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          Hate to disagree, but if you'll pardon me ....

          I've owned eight pre-owned 240's (ten if you count those with pre-AW transmissions like the BW-55), and have always(!) changed the transmission fluid (i.e., a generous flush, two cases or 24 qts) upon my acquisition. Never had the problems you described, nor of any kind. The cars started with between 150K and 230K miles, and went for years -- usually until they rusted away or needed too much chassis repair.
          BTW, also did the same with the engine oil, using synthetic. Likewise, never had any leakage or other problems.

          I, admittedly in my own opinion, think that all those tales about the dire consequences of changing fluids, engine or transmission, in old cars is just myth!

          Let's agree to disagree. I just offered this comment to any readers, for their benefit, who are interested -- I want them to know that there's an alternative opinion that doesn't accept what I consider to be a myth.







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            A myth, IMHO .... 200

            posted by  transit wind on  Mon May 18 18:50 CST 2015
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            last visit: Fri Aug 15 22:40 CST 2014
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            I haven't come to a full conclusion. I just know that a transmission was doing great until I flushed it. The other one not so great lasted 100,000 more miles with now that I think of it a flush with additive and a leak that made for a slow second "flush".

            I'm happy to hear your experience and it gives me hope that I can get the car I think has a bad transmission back on the road. It started to slip and I would have to put it manually into 1st to get it to go into gear just before I parked it a couple years ago. I'm hoping not have to swap transmissions when I get it back on the road. Maybe another flush is best.

            Thanks for your comment.








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    swapping aw70 valve body with toyota a43d 200

    posted by  JWT on  Wed Dec 24 16:30 CST 2014
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    last visit: Tue Dec 4 20:13 CST 2012
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    Replacing the ball is way easier than swapping transmissions. You don't have to drop the transmission, just the pan and the valve body. When I went to buy gaskets along with the new ball from a local transmission shop they said "don't worry about gaskets, we always put them back together without them". That's what I did and then drove the car for many more years.







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