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Believe you me, I've broken a key or 8 in my day in 122 ignition switches. They get old, they get worn. It gets cold outside (the most common problem)
Normally, I get a cheapo aftermarket switch, or install a push button guy. Two options that always work fine.
However, I'm in a situation where I want to keep originality. Schedules and weather worked out at last moment that I'm going to try to resurrect the 123GT that I got this past spring.
Hey, all it needs is an engine and transmission. Cake and candy, right?
Honestly, the ignition switch is no biggie. I can hot-wire it with a spare coil easily enough, but it'd be cool to start it with the key.
Switch is super stiff. Not stiff from being worn out.. car only has 100k original miles. It's not cold out. The switch is stiff from sitting unused for some 35 years (car was parked in about 1979, outside)
Some manner of solvent. I don't want to go with WD40, though I would. I don't think a dry lube (such as graphite powder) would work.
Any recommendations that are easy to find that leave no residue? I'm really thinking that something I can get in there pressurized would be best. Else I'd just go with light machine oil..
Heck. I don't know. First car I've had that I actually want to preserve the originality of...
Thanks!
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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Sorry for not posting back on this issue sooner. To be honest, I'd completely forgotten about it, as work, and now weather issues got in the way of progress.
In the end, the only progress I managed to make was assembly of the engine (B20) and transmission (M41) that I intend to put in the car (temporary drivetrain), but did not actually get to any installation work. Ended up having to work on another project for the two days I was on location, and now it's zero degrees outside and the car can wait a bit.
To clarify a little bit more though, on the key/lock thing.. I do not think it was stiff when the car was parked. I know the history of this car to a fairly good extent. I know it was parked in about 1979, the drivetrain was removed, and it sat for the last 35 years roasting in the desert heat of either Arizona, or Colorado.
I don't think the key ever came out of the ignition since the car was last turned off, before the engine was removed.
I would guess that interior temperatures climbed well into the mid-100s, and surface temps of interior plastics and such, higher than that.. 36 years of off-gassing plastic. And those gasses got into *everything*
Of course, that's only a guess.
In any event, it's not just a stiff start position, as is usually the case. I'm afraid that even moving the key to ign-on is so stiff that the key will break. Which means, no pulling the cylinder.
I guess best course of action will be to 'hot-wire' it to start, as that's easy.
Then get a whole bunch of keys made, with expectation of ruining them, get the ignition on position, pull the cylinder, and further evaluate from there.
Were this a typical $200 122 beater like I usually end up with, I wouldn't care. But a low mileage (albeit trashed) Swedish built 123GT, I'm really wanting to be careful to do no harm. And yes, if I get it going with the original lock, a push button will be discretely installed. That, to me, is a safety issue.
Thanks again for the replies! And thanks, as always, for being nice. This is always a hot button topic.
Best as always!
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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Matt;
Beware that if you continue to use your key without addressing this issue, the additional force required to turn must come from the key, so it is accumulating fatigue faster!
If your Ignition Switch gets more difficult to turn when its cold, it suggests that the various lubes which have been sprayed into the lock cylinder over the decades are not playing nice together any more, and gumming up and getting more viscous...and it is likely this is the case, because there is just no access to innards of the electrical switch behind the lock cylinder, so it is just about impossible that something other than the originally applied correct grease is in there...and I have seen that grease get firm, but not appreciably hard enough to be noticeable at the key.
I'd recommend you confirm the sluggishness is happening in the lock cylinder or [again, unlikely] the electrical part of the switch... remove the lock cylinder using the normal method...then, when removed and in your hand, turn key in cylinder while it is not transferring resistance of the electrical part. If lock cylinder itself is sluggish, I'd blast a half of a spraycan of brake-cleaner though there to flush it out... or drop it into a bucket of solvent for a day (without disassembling), or even an ultrasonic cleaner with any kind of petroleum solvent and give it a thorough cleaning (which should bring it back to functioning smoothly and without much resistance), then finally rinse/clean and lube it well with a quality fine oil (I like tri-flow, teflon containing non-sysnthetic, with a wide temp range), and reinstall...then install an use a Push-Button Start Switch to be sure!
Cheers
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I've owned, at last count, six 122s and two 1800s, all with this ignition coil/switch setup. Every one of them got a starter button after I broke off a key in the first one I ever owned. Normally I don't learn that quickly from my mistakes but a starter button is the way to go. Originality? Hide the button, as one commenter suggested.
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My '62--two perfect original keys (still using the first one), one perfect original ignition switch, no starter button...
Can anyone spell S*I*L*I*C*O*N*E, 100%?
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Michael;
The ignition switch and key typically all work fine, right until the one time you turn the key against the gorilla return spring and it twists off.
...and I bet that is the story of all of those owners who have experienced broken keys...because few people inspect the root of their key for signs of fatigue (but maybe they should)...point is: The common experience of all vintage Volvo owners is that the key WILL break at some point!
If your experience is contrary to that, it just means you haven't accumulated enough twist cycles on your key(s) yet...or maybe because your gorilla spring is on the light side, so it will take you more cycles...or you have a particularly gentle touch...or you are spreading the accumulated cycles over multiple keys...or some combination of all those factors...but make no mistake, it IS accumulating...good luck!
Cheers
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Ron, greetings and thanks for the info,
However, with all due respect for your vast experience, and gentle writing style, I must disagree...
I have seen door hinges that were never lubricated fail at 50K, and always-well-lubricated ones perfect at 500K. I believe this situation is analogous, poor maintainance, and not the result of excessive spring tension.
I have seen many many poorly lubricated ignition locks ruin many many keys, especially the crappy replacements most opt for. A well lubricated lock turns very easily with no strain on the key.
Petroleum-based lubricants attract and hold grit, over time increasing friction and resistance to turning.
When new these cars came with a list of lubrication requirements, including the ignition switch...
When poorly followed (often), over years and decades, many of the neglected parts just lasted longer than the challenged keys.
I believe my key will last a million miles with regular silicone administration to the switch, but we'll have to have our kids check at that time, as I for one ain't gonna' make it that far...
Best, Michael
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Michael;
Greetings back from Connecticut, and thanks for the kind words...we all have our experience and are trying to help, and not offend others(!), so although I wish to be emphatic, I also try to use a careful writing style...
That having been said, I want to point out and discuss a two points you made...
"A well lubricated lock turns very easily with no strain on the key."
I disagree with this assertion...because strain on the key occurs EVERY TIME when turned against the gorilla spring...a well lubed lock cylinder will not ADD APPRECIABLY to this total force which key is subjected to (credit to you, and everyone who keeps their lock cylinder well lubed!)...my point is that the cumulative fatigue comes from the gorilla spring, and every time you turn the key to the Start position. Once the momentary Start position is no longer used (after for instance, installation of the Pushbutton Start Switch), the key will only be subjected to the modest force necessary to turn it to the Ignition ON position (because this is not against the gorilla spring, only against the detent spring), so the key will last MUCH, MUCH longer...a well lubed lock cylinder is certainly still important though.
"Petroleum-based lubricants attract and hold grit, over time increasing friction and resistance to turning."
ANY wet lube (including silicon) will catch and hold particulates, including dirt they don't simply disappear! ...but where is that supposed to come from?... I don't have a sandpit in my pocket...maybe a bit of pocket lint or the remains of a miniscule dust-bunny, but neither is hanging on the key when I insert it into the lock, so what remains? My point here is that if the lock becomes harder to turn, the cause is more likely miniscule particles of metal rubbing against each other as they are ground away (moreso, if not lubed adequately, and to minimize this, lock components are made of soft brass). Driver should notice this increase in force necessary to turn key, and investigate as original poster is doing. But NO AMOUNT of lubing of the lock cylinder is going to decrease the force necessary to push against the gorilla spring.
Reference also this YT video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hfuUbguT9Gw
...he does use some incorrect terminology like "tumbler" when he should be calling it "lock cylinder", and I prefer the term "detents" to "nubs", but I'll get over it...him posting this video means I don't have to... Things to note in the video are how lock cylinder is COMPLETELY SEALED from the electrical switch (so NO amount of lube we saturate the lock cylinder with will make its way to the electrical switch OR gorilla spring), and how his thumb is actually on the gorilla spring from about 1:35 on...at 1:50 he simply calls it a spring and breezes over it...finally, the posting is labeled 1969 1800, it is however applicable and representative of all earlier Volvos also.
Cheers
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Unfortunately, as Ron says, the "fly in the ointment", not an unreasonable analogy in this case, is the state of lubrication in the enclosed electrical part which is turned by the tang on the barrel. Your siliconised barrel may be turning smooth and sweet, but if the switch itself is stiff and uncooperative, especially the "Gorilla" spring, you can have problems. With the barrel out you can at least get some idea of the state of it by turning it with a chunky screwdriver. If the spring is very stiff you can take that out of the equation by fitting a starter button. You then just have turn the ignition on without having to force it against the spring. Some springs stay light and easy like your 500k door hinge, but not being able to lubricate this switch makes that unpredictable. I'm pleased that your switch appears to be working well and hope it continues that way. Many do but some don't.
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Get an ASSA cylinder set, beefier keys and good quality. These were standard in the earlier cars but interchange with the later cars. This is seems to be an issue always with the 122 crowd but not the PV crowd
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My Amazon came stock with the ASSA lock also. The current key blanks are slightly different (longer); I set off the front and cut off the end, then they are fine.
You can also buy steel keys instead of brass; that might solve your problem altogether.
Chris Horn might have some used ASSA lock/key sets.
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I sent Chris some steel blanks from the UK. He might still have spares.
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The sticky bit is actually the working part of the lock that you can turn, or not, with a screwdriver after you've removed the barrel. Getting some lubrication in there isn't so easy. Likely originally grease which has dried out and hardened. If MEK affects plastic don't use that. WD-40 leaves a residue. Brake cleaner will remove the grease but you'll need the lock part hanging down to allow it to flow out. The part turned by the screwdriver turns a wiper across the contacts, the last turn against a spring. It all needs to free to move. Take your pick on lubrication. Obviously the tumbler part needs to be clean and working well. As said, the replacements are good and a combination of the better parts of the ASSA and Neiman types.
The actually lock should be turned by the tab on the key fitting into the notch on the lock. The notch gets worn and recut keys often don't fit deep enough so the thin blades take the strain, crack and then break. If your key has a crack, replace it. If it breaks off flush it can be hard to get the piece out of the lock. Always have a second key handy!
Originality is fine but a starter button under the dash edge is not visible and worth doing.
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Hello,
The most penetrating cleaner I've used is the MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). Its an industrial type cleaner, sweet smelling, carcinogenic (possible cancer causing), flammable BUT very effective. Ensure adequate ventilation during use.
Cuts thru rust/grease easily. Dries up without trace.
Available at hardware store (Ace Hardware - where I bought this). And it EATS plastic. Make sure no plastic parts around, metal only.
After the switch has been freed and the MEK had dried, use your favourite tumbler oil/lubricant.
Hope this helps,
Amarin.
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100% Silicon spray i.e. without any petroleum distilates,
ANYTHING with petroleum distilates will leave a film that attracts dust etc, and promotes gumming-up
I've used sillicon in locks for decades, including Amazon ignition, and never have broken a key.
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Yes, they are only original once. Light machine oil or a locksmith. Is there anyone around who can make you a steel key ?
Greg
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